I replaced my air ride compressor because i thought it was louder than it should be (the sound was normal but didn’t know that due to the Yukon being new to me), so the new compressor seemed to run alot and now is completely toast. I’m wondering if it has anything to do with new changing out the rear shocks or maybe someone else? I’ve heard that sometimes you have to reprogram something after messing with the suspension, but no lights are on and it didn’t throw any codes??? Looking for ideas of what to check, or could it had been a bad compressor from factory?
New air ride compressor went bad after a few months
- Thread starter Shtiv
- Start date
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adventurenali92
Full Access Member
Did you replace the compressor AND the rear Z55 option air shocks? If your rear Z55 option shocks have a leak in one or both of the air bladders that go round the shock itself, the compressor will constantly run trying to keep them full and it will burn itself out. Pretty common issue. If your shocks are new and not leaking, it is possibly you got a bad compressor. Which brand compressor did you go with?
I installed the compressor about 3 or so months ago, then the shocks a few weeks ago. I checked the connections on shocks the moment i noticed the compressor sounding and acting funny. Dorman 949-000 that went bad. I installed a new one today, Dorman 949-099 ( apparently the new upgraded version), now I’m getting nothing with this new one at the moment.
adventurenali92
Full Access Member
So you replaced the compressor and still had original shocks? And then replaced the shocks before or after the first replacement compressor died?
Correct. Replaced shocks after the first compressor replacement.
adventurenali92
Full Access Member
Gotcha. Sounds like the first replacement compressor may have burned itself up trying to keep the old shocks filled. I just read a thread a couple days ago about someone putting in a new compressor and then not being able to get it cycling through on the key start up. But that they were able to jump power to it and it kicked on. Let me see if I can find that thread.
Edit: I will add that I’ve read someone say that there was programming to do after new rear shocks and new compressor on these rigs, but that was NOT the case with my truck. We threw new shocks and compressor in, turned the key and everything worked as it should.
adventurenali92
Full Access Member
Here it is. Pages two and three talk about the exhaust solenoid being faulty. If the shocks are full, and the exhaust solenoid is no good, the compressor won’t run its “self test” where it dumps a tad bit of air and then runs to fill them back up, at each key cycle like it should. Page two talked about how to test and see if the exhaust solenoid is working or not:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/autoride-suspension-help.124865/page-3
I’m still reading through the read but there’s a lot of good information so far.
This is also where I read about doing an auto level control and ride height sensor “reset” via the tech2 tool.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/autoride-suspension-help.124865/page-3
I’m still reading through the read but there’s a lot of good information so far.
This is also where I read about doing an auto level control and ride height sensor “reset” via the tech2 tool.
Thank you
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Lots of good info in the auto-ride suspension help thread. I had both the compressor and the shocks go on mine at the same time. The dump valve was the failure on the pump. Shocks leaked too. I had one Arnott shock fail electrically last week and installed a warranty unit the other day. Hoping for the best now.
adventurenali92
Full Access Member
It could have but it’s unlikely. Didn’t you say it ran once or twice and then It hasn’t ran since? That would indicate that the exhaust solenoid is bad.
It’s not coming on because the shocks are already full and the exhaust solenoid isn’t opening the vent to release any air so the compressor won’t come on while the shocks are still full. Unhook the air lines at each shock and let the air out of them. Then rehook the air lines up and turn your key on. If the pump kicks in and fills them up, then that’s the sign that the exhaust solenoid on the pump is bad and you need a replacement pump and solenoid.
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Not yet, going to do tonight. Is it a bad idea to install my new front shocks prior to getting this compressor issue squared away?
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Pull a line off of one of the shocks, reconnect and try again.
New one hasnt turned
new compressor hasn’t turned on at all.
adventurenali92
Full Access Member
Front shocks will be fine. They’re not air shocks. The front auto ride shocks are just a standard shock thats electronically dampened via the trucks computer. So putting those in won’t affect anything in the rear.
Make sure the power harness going into the compressor is fully seated into its clips and connected properly.
Check the ground at the compressor, it gets rusty or corroded and that’s just as important at the positive side. There should be a ground wire with an eyelet right at the compressor that goes to the frame.
Do this while vehicle is on? Thank you
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
No. Before starting.
