New air ride compressor went bad after a few months

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Shtiv

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I replaced my air ride compressor because i thought it was louder than it should be (the sound was normal but didn’t know that due to the Yukon being new to me), so the new compressor seemed to run alot and now is completely toast. I’m wondering if it has anything to do with new changing out the rear shocks or maybe someone else? I’ve heard that sometimes you have to reprogram something after messing with the suspension, but no lights are on and it didn’t throw any codes??? Looking for ideas of what to check, or could it had been a bad compressor from factory?
 

adventurenali92

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Did you replace the compressor AND the rear Z55 option air shocks? If your rear Z55 option shocks have a leak in one or both of the air bladders that go round the shock itself, the compressor will constantly run trying to keep them full and it will burn itself out. Pretty common issue. If your shocks are new and not leaking, it is possibly you got a bad compressor. Which brand compressor did you go with?
 
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Shtiv

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Did you replace the compressor AND the rear Z55 option air shocks? If your rear Z55 option shocks have a leak in one or both of the air bladders that go round the shock itself, the compressor will constantly run trying to keep them full and it will burn itself out. Pretty common issue. If your shocks are new and not leaking, it is possibly you got a bad compressor. Which brand compressor did you go with?[/QUOTE
I installed the compressor about 3 or so months ago, then the shocks a few weeks ago. I checked the connections on shocks the moment i noticed the compressor sounding and acting funny. Dorman 949-000 that went bad. I installed a new one today, Dorman 949-099 ( apparently the new upgraded version), now I’m getting nothing with this new one at the moment.
 
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Shtiv

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Did you replace the compressor AND the rear Z55 option air shocks? If your rear Z55 option shocks have a leak in one or both of the air bladders that go round the shock itself, the compressor will constantly run trying to keep them full and it will burn itself out. Pretty common issue. If your shocks are new and not leaking, it is possibly you got a bad compressor. Which brand compressor did you go with?
I installed the compressor about 3 or so months ago, then the shocks a few weeks ago. I checked the connections on shocks the moment i noticed the compressor sounding and acting funny. Dorman 949-000 that went bad. I installed a new one today, Dorman 949-099 ( apparently the new upgraded version), now I’m getting nothing with this new one at the moment.
 

adventurenali92

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I installed the compressor about 3 or so months ago, then the shocks a few weeks ago. I checked the connections on shocks the moment i noticed the compressor sounding and acting funny. Dorman 949-000 that went bad. I installed a new one today, Dorman 949-099 ( apparently the new upgraded version), now I’m getting nothing with this new one at the moment.
So you replaced the compressor and still had original shocks? And then replaced the shocks before or after the first replacement compressor died?
 
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Shtiv

Shtiv

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So you replaced the compressor and still had original shocks? And then replaced the shocks before or after the first replacement compressor died?
Correct. Replaced shocks after the first compressor replacement.
 

adventurenali92

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Correct. Replaced shocks after the first compressor replacement.
Gotcha. Sounds like the first replacement compressor may have burned itself up trying to keep the old shocks filled. I just read a thread a couple days ago about someone putting in a new compressor and then not being able to get it cycling through on the key start up. But that they were able to jump power to it and it kicked on. Let me see if I can find that thread.
Edit: I will add that I’ve read someone say that there was programming to do after new rear shocks and new compressor on these rigs, but that was NOT the case with my truck. We threw new shocks and compressor in, turned the key and everything worked as it should.
 

adventurenali92

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Here it is. Pages two and three talk about the exhaust solenoid being faulty. If the shocks are full, and the exhaust solenoid is no good, the compressor won’t run its “self test” where it dumps a tad bit of air and then runs to fill them back up, at each key cycle like it should. Page two talked about how to test and see if the exhaust solenoid is working or not:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/autoride-suspension-help.124865/page-3
I’m still reading through the read but there’s a lot of good information so far.
This is also where I read about doing an auto level control and ride height sensor “reset” via the tech2 tool.
 
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Shtiv

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Here it is. Pages two and three talk about the exhaust solenoid being faulty. If the shocks are full, and the exhaust solenoid is no good, the compressor won’t run its “self test” where it dumps a tad bit of air and then runs to fill them back up, at each key cycle like it should. Page two talked about how to test and see if the exhaust solenoid is working or not:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/autoride-suspension-help.124865/page-3
I’m still reading through the read but there’s a lot of good information so far.
This is also where I read about doing an auto level control and ride height sensor “reset” via the tech2 tool.
Thank you
 

George B

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Lots of good info in the auto-ride suspension help thread. I had both the compressor and the shocks go on mine at the same time. The dump valve was the failure on the pump. Shocks leaked too. I had one Arnott shock fail electrically last week and installed a warranty unit the other day. Hoping for the best now.
 

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