To sell or not to sell, looking for opinions

[Sweet Pete]

Bottom line up front: should I sell my 2013 LTZ with 151,000 miles and buy a newer (used) suburban/Yukon XL or keep the one I have?

At the crux of my decision is the fact my truck needs a transmission... Last fall I replaced the right side top end of the engine which ran me about $5k and a few weeks ago I swapped out springs and shocks on all four corners. As I try to figure out what to do with my truck I don’t know if at this point “what else could go wrong” or if the truck gods are giving me signs to move on to something more reliable.

I realize none of us has a crystal ball but I’d appreciate your all’s thoughts.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

You know what works and has been replaced on your truck, and you are thinking about what might need to be replaced on your truck at time moves on. If you purchase a new used truck, you will have to learn all of this about the new truck, starting Day #1. Maybe you will be lucky, and everything works now and in the future, but maybe you won't.

You know what you have right now, and that is important, IMO. How about rust and rot on the truck, as that is one thing, if present, will ultimately determine the life of the truck?

 

[wsteele]

$5K for the top end of one bank seems high. I think one thing I might try and do is find a competent shop that is a little more cost effective.

A reman transmission shouldn’t be more than $2500.

Unless you have a lot of experience buying and selling cars/trucks, each time you change usually comes with it some amount of loss. In addition, the newer the truck will likely have some future depreciation, likely more than the cost of your transmission and all future repairs along the way.

For me, the devil I know is far preferable to the one I don’t.

 

[Sweet Pete]

Yeah, the shop that did the engine work was a dealership that I was stranded near during a family road trip on our way back from OH to NM. My local shop is reasonable.

The truck has been a southwest vehicle practically it’s whole life so the rust and rot is minimal if not nonexistent.

You both are echoing what my wife is feeling about it today about knowing what issues are fixed at this point.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Yup, I agree with what has already been said--and what you're thinking already. Keep it. You already know what's wrong, and you've put alot of money into it. Fix the trans and enjoy it.

 

[Miami-Dade]

If this was my 2013 LTZ with 151K miles on it I would definitely keep it...Some good independent shops have connections to good honest reasonable transmission mechanics.

 

[intheburbs]

Tough call either way. You're getting into that phase of larger items wearing out - hubs/bearings, axles, CV joints, etc - and balancing that with the absolute insanity that is the used car market.

My inclination, when I'm making this kind of decision is to go usually go with the "bird in the hand." Your current truck is a known quantity. Any used vehicle, no matter how well you do your due diligence, is a wild card.

And frankly, with these trucks, anything below about $12k-$13k is just going to be a high-mileage money pit. You'd really have to go towards the $20k-$25k range to get a good used one.

 

[avalonandl]

Trans should be 2000 to 2500. You will need to fix it regardless. Who is going to buy a XL with a bum trans......

 

[swathdiver]

Bottom line up front: should I sell my 2013 LTZ with 151,000 miles and buy a newer (used) suburban/Yukon XL or keep the one I have?

At the crux of my decision is the fact my truck needs a transmission... Last fall I replaced the right side top end of the engine which ran me about $5k and a few weeks ago I swapped out springs and shocks on all four corners. As I try to figure out what to do with my truck I don’t know if at this point “what else could go wrong” or if the truck gods are giving me signs to move on to something more reliable.

I realize none of us has a crystal ball but I’d appreciate your all’s thoughts.

Keep the truck, get a GM Reman trans (100k warranty) and whatever else she needs to stay in top form. With new transmission and by changing the fluid every 40K miles or so, it'll last at least another 151K miles. I know of one 6L80 that went to 280K by keeping the fluid clean, none of that 100K service stuff, 36K!

At this mileage, it is about time for a major overhaul of the suspension and once complete, she'll drive like new again for another 8-10 years and 150K miles. Unless something is broken, you get to decide when to spend the money and hopefully you don't have monthly payments anymore.

 

[BuckBrush]

Like already stated above, I'd stick with the one you have. Getting into a different vehicle always brings a risk, if it's used there is a BIG chance that someone is getting rid of it for a reason or pending issue, hopefully you can find that on the inspection. Buying new brings great piece of mind but also brings a big depreciation price tag and doesn't guarantee that vehicle won't leave you stranded.

You already know what has been done to your vehicle and what it's history is.

 

[OR VietVet]

As has been said already, keep the truck for your own reasons. You know what is now needed and know what you have done already. If you buy a new to you used rig, the process starts all over again. Stay with the shop you trust and have them help you with the trans search but I do like @swathdiver recommendation about the GM trans. If you like the current rig except for the current problem, and it meets your needs and especially if is close to paid for or is paid for, listen to what the wife is saying. Your call though.

 

[petethepug]

A couple of factors are in your favor for selling.

* Resale on LWB NNBS are at historic highs.
* Your recent service will attract willing buyers.
* It’s tax return time.
* Interest rates are at historic lows.

The itch to dump and run comes from knowing you’ve finally accumulated some value and got ahead of the servicing.

There’s nothing wrong with evaluating where your at in regards to the trucks residual value. The key thing you’ve got to ponder on is “what are the features and options you want that you don’t have”?

* Reliability or a VSC, CPO vehicle.
* A higher trim vehicle in better condition.
* More specific features or options.

I can safely say the transition to move into a 2015+ truck with the equity in your current vehicle will run a min of $10k to move up to new newer year/model. It’s really important that you get a CPO vehicle or a VSC if you move up. The same servicing and repair fate will fall on you all over again if you don’t.

I was in the same shoes last year with an 08 Denali XL AWD. The VSC had basically restored the truck with over $15k worth of parts and service. It had moved from 96k to 140k since 2014. It had piston slap but it was verified NOT to be anything else.

I found a TSB that 07-08 trucks had a trans issue that may eventually show up. I had to address the peeling clear coat and cracked dash. Two of the four 20” alloys were corroded and would need replacement. The dash and paint alone ensured I would never recover from replacement/repair. I also wanted cooled seats, BT, flex fuel, No AFM and better paint, potentially in white so the truck stayed cooler.

09 was the last year for no AFM and first year for flex fuel so I had to get an 09 based upon the equity in the Denali. Escalade Platinum was the only trim with a proven, no crack leather dash and tri coat leather paint known not peel its clear coat. Platinum also had cooled seats up front. For me, it was just a matter of hunting down the truck and I had time on my side and free travel and lodging from airlines miles.

Long story short, for $2.5k more we moved from the 08 Denali to the 09 Pearl White Escalade Platinum ESV AWD @ 130k picked it up in TX and drove it back to CA w/o a VSC (warranty). The trans, dash and paint issues were cured. The cooled seats were there with with flex fuel, no piston slap.

It needs new 4 Magneride struts. One 22” alloy was replaced and it needs a new rear main seal. All this is normal wear and service items. Arnott MRC struts will guarantee I’ll only have to change them one more time (lifetime guarantee) and I’ll hit the seal at the same time as motor mounts, pan seal and oil pump o ring. Fuel costs are down at least $1k a year from e85.

Find what you want first, even if it’s 10, 20 or $30k more. Then, look for it, without compromise. That’s the only was to avoid buyers remorse. It will show up eventually.

Happy hunting!











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Cusomano]

Not trying to hijack your thread, I have the same dilemma but in a different way. My 03 Escalade just turned 50,000 miles and I've owned and maintained it for 11 years now. My usual flip on a vehicle is 5 years and I'm torn on what to do since there's nothing wrong with it. Like others have claimed resale on these things are insane right now. Whatever you decide, don't second guess yourself later.

 

[Rocket Man]

I say keep it and get a reman trans. These trucks last pretty much forever, you’ll just need maintenance but even with something newer you’ll still need that.

 

[wsteele]

Not trying to hijack your thread, I have the same dilemma but in a different way. My 03 Escalade just turned 50,000 miles and I've owned and maintained it for 11 years now. My usual flip on a vehicle is 5 years and I'm torn on what to do since there's nothing wrong with it. Like others have claimed resale on these things are insane right now. Whatever you decide, don't second guess yourself later.

I saw a report today on CNBC, according to Carguru's who keeps track of such things, full sized SUV prices are up 22% year over year.

Thank you J Powell for ultra low interest rates and the US Tax Payer for all the borrowed free money.

Everybody understands, this isn't going to end well, right?

 

[Duster50]

Just to pile on to everyone else, i'd keep it unless you really want something different. My experience below:

I just turned over 285K on my 2007 Tahoe. Bought it at 147K in 2017.

It has been been all over and driven almost every day...to east TX once, WA once, MT, NV, CO, and KS numerous times (from Northern CA). I religiously maintain routine maintenance between every 5000 and where the onboard computer says 25% oil life left (usually about 7000-7500). I deal with any issues that come up as soon as I can, and it is still a solid truck.

I still have AFM active, and have had no problems with that at all. It DOES burn a bit of oil...supposedly there are improved valve covers that might help that (saw something about that in another post on here a while back). I had a leaky rear main seal, and the oil pan seal is leaky. Fixed the rear main during the transmission change, and plan on fixing the oil pan on one of my upcoming oil changes.

I have replaced the transfer case and the transmission within the last two years (not together), and have a contingency fund saved up for an engine replacement when it goes. I have no knocks, pings, or bad sounds coming from the hood.

I LOVE this truck, and have it set up just how I like it (radios and emergency response gear), and I don't want to outfit a newer model until I freakin' have to, so I plan on running it forever, or until the sub-systems just give out on it and I can't bring it back to life.