"Safe" years for afm/stabilitrack/etc on the 6.2?

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Drwinlied

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Hello,

I tell ya...I almost went and bought an 11 esky ESV today. 76k miles & not a terrible price, IMO...I just can't help myself from consumerism...*looks down at a pile of parts for my 5.3 tahoe and sweeps under rug

Anyway, I decided to look into the 6.2's a bit (knowing the reputation of the 5.3 isn't good) and definitely found enough issues with 07-08 6.2's to never ever want to even look at one. But were the issues worked out by MY2011? I would do AFM disable, at the very least, but the concerning one to me is the stabilitrack/engine stall issues the early models of this vintage are prone to. Considering many folk say that particular issue likes to happen when towing (read: fun trips away from home with toys and family) I just want to lessen the odds of a failure prone machine.

I'll keep searching and also check sites for the build variances of the L8x engines but wanted to drop a line here too.

Thank you!

(that TruCool 40k might just stay NIB a little longer lol)
 

Geotrash

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Hello,

I tell ya...I almost went and bought an 11 esky ESV today. 76k miles & not a terrible price, IMO...I just can't help myself from consumerism...*looks down at a pile of parts for my 5.3 tahoe and sweeps under rug

Anyway, I decided to look into the 6.2's a bit (knowing the reputation of the 5.3 isn't good) and definitely found enough issues with 07-08 6.2's to never ever want to even look at one. But were the issues worked out by MY2011? I would do AFM disable, at the very least, but the concerning one to me is the stabilitrack/engine stall issues the early models of this vintage are prone to. Considering many folk say that particular issue likes to happen when towing (read: fun trips away from home with toys and family) I just want to lessen the odds of a failure prone machine.

I'll keep searching and also check sites for the build variances of the L8x engines but wanted to drop a line here too.

Thank you!

(that TruCool 40k might just stay NIB a little longer lol)
I have an '07 with 218K on the clock. No issues, and there are lots of them still running around in good shape. The '07 & '08 MY didn't have AFM, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one if it were well-maintained.
 

HD_LS

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I don't recommend buying any LS engine with AFM. Therefore that caps it at 2009 for the 6.2s. By 2009 they solved alot of the issues from 2007-2008. So in my mind, the 2009 is the best option.
 
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Drwinlied

Drwinlied

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I have an '07 with 218K on the clock. No issues, and there are lots of them still running around in good shape. The '07 & '08 MY didn't have AFM, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one if it were well-maintained.

Do you tow at all? I understand that the problem cases / forum posters represent a small percentage of units etc, etc. But the threads on the engine stall thing for the 07-08's really don't have me lining up to want to be next for that. at least with the AFM/5.3 you aren't on vacation when you see signs/it fails (unless you ignored a lot of symptoms prior to). my take, anyway.

I don't recommend buying any LS engine with AFM. Therefore that caps it at 2009 for the 6.2s. By 2009 they solved alot of the issues from 2007-2008. So in my mind, the 2009 is the best option.

buying something w/o AFM is dang-near impossible when it has to check the boxes my family has. I bought my 5.3 with 128k on the clock and immediately disabled AFM, even though it showed no signs of failure. I know it isn't as good as a mechanical delete, but that just isn't realistic for me.

now comprehending that the 6.2 didn't even have AFM until 10+, guess i'd better do some cold starts before buying lol
 

Geotrash

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Do you tow at all? I understand that the problem cases / forum posters represent a small percentage of units etc, etc. But the threads on the engine stall thing for the 07-08's really don't have me lining up to want to be next for that. at least with the AFM/5.3 you aren't on vacation when you see signs/it fails (unless you ignored a lot of symptoms prior to). my take, anyway.



buying something w/o AFM is dang-near impossible when it has to check the boxes my family has. I bought my 5.3 with 128k on the clock and immediately disabled AFM, even though it showed no signs of failure. I know it isn't as good as a mechanical delete, but that just isn't realistic for me.

now comprehending that the 6.2 didn't even have AFM until 10+, guess i'd better do some cold starts before buying lol
Yes. I tow a 6500 lb camper with both of our Denali’s but primarily the 2012 in the summer because I’ve made modifications to it for towing, including an upgraded billet torque converter, remote mounted transmission cooler, cold case radiator, and a towing cam that included deleting the AFM and VVT systems.

Our ‘07 is still stock except an upgraded transmission cooler. I’ve never had any of the stalling problems that others have reported with it, even when towing in the summer heat. It still has the VVT system but the actuator was replaced, which as you probably know after reading, is one of the potential causes.

If I were shopping now, I would probably buy a 2011-2013 with 100-125k and just have the AFM tuned out. The lifters themselves are as durable as any others when not doing AFM duty. For towing I would still make the other mods I mentioned minus the cam. It was a beast of a job. Lol.


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swathdiver

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From 2011 on, AFM is way more reliable as GM introduced several improvements by then. Dirty oil is AFMs worst enemy. One thing to think about, we're buying vehicles that have been on the road for about 100K miles and have lost about what, 2/3 to 3/4 of their value by now since new? Ponying up for a delete or AFM repair should not stop us from enjoying these great machines.
 

petethepug

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There’s definitely a lot of information on the AFM NNBS series. The trend is to disable it or acknowledge it by sticking to the maintenance intervals.

The fact is resale value on the NNBS is insane right now. It would seem that the word is out on this bad boy reputation and buyers are now willing to take on the responsibility knowing the risks (AFM) outweigh the rewards (style and longevity).

Since Feb 2020 I’m watching the whole thing unfold from the sidewalk in an 09 Escalade Platinum sipping e85, watching the premium 91 octane fuel prices tick up to $4.42 gal here in Cali, with e85 @ $2.59 gal.


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swathdiver

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There’s definitely a lot of information on the AFM NNBS series. The trend is to disable it or acknowledge it by sticking to the maintenance intervals.

The fact is resale value on the NNBS is insane right now. It would seem that the word is out on this bad boy reputation and buyers are now willing to take on the responsibility knowing the risks (AFM) outweigh the rewards (style and longevity).

Since Feb 2020 I’m watching the whole thing unfold from the sidewalk in an 09 Escalade Platinum sipping e85, watching the premium 91 octane fuel prices tick up to $4.42 gal here in Cali, with e85 @ $2.59 gal.


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Yeah, our two FlexFuel trucks switched over to E85 several tanks ago.
 
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Drwinlied

Drwinlied

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My phone is being stupid right now so this thread looks all jacked up and I can't quote,, so

It isn't so much afm, as I've dealt with that on a few vehicles now. As long as it isn't already on its way out, it's not a deal breaker. The stalling / stabilitrack was the biggie...then combined with afm.

I just wanted to know what, if any,, improvements were made by 11. Seems they at least had improvements made so that helps set me at ease..

A few eskies will be looked at soon...
 
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Geotrash

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My phone is being stupid right now so this thread looks all jacked up and I can't quote,, so

It isn't so much afm, as I've dealt with that on a few vehicles now. As long as it isn't already on its way out, it's not a deal breaker. The stalling / stabilitrack was the biggie...then combined with afm.

I just wanted to know what, if any,, improvements were made by 11. Seems they at least had improvements made so that helps set me at ease..

A few eskies will be looked at soon...
Glad to hear it. We got you if you have any questions in the buying process.
 
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Drwinlied

Drwinlied

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Fully intended to buy an '11 today. Looked fantastic on the outside and the interior was real clean...

Water stained rear headliner, new eibach shocks and springs in the rear, and a real wet cross member to include freshly dripping oil...pass. also the exhaust manifolds were the most rusty corroded flaky piles of purple rust I've ever seen.

But man the 6.2 was leagues better than my 5.3. I literally thought about just spending 10k and building my tahoe...6.2, trans, axles...tvs...lol
 
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adventurenali92

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Fully intended to buy an '11 today. Looked fantastic on the outside and the interior was real clean...

Water stained rear headliner, new eibach shocks and springs in the rear, and a real wet cross member to include freshly dripping oil...pass. also the exhaust manifolds were the most rusty corroded flaky piles of purple rust I've ever seen.

But man the 6.2 was leagues better than my 5.3. I literally thought about just spending 10k and building my tahoe...6.2, trans, axles...tvs...lol
Keeping looking! I’ve been looking at both Denali xl trucks and Escalade ESVs since November and there’s a ton of clean trucks out there for sale. Be patient and find the right one. It’ll happen!
 

swathdiver

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Fully intended to buy an '11 today. Looked fantastic on the outside and the interior was real clean...

Water stained rear headliner, new eibach shocks and springs in the rear, and a real wet cross member to include freshly dripping oil...pass. also the exhaust manifolds were the most rusty corroded flaky piles of purple rust I've ever seen.

But man the 6.2 was leagues better than my 5.3. I literally thought about just spending 10k and building my tahoe...6.2, trans, axles...tvs...lol


With trucks like that you ought to consider negotiating for a lower price or for the issues to be fixed. Dealerships will be more likely to make the necessary repairs as part of negotiation.

2012 and on will have some refinements like Hill Start Assist, an improved navigation unit and improvements for towing (Trailer Sway Control) and cruise control functions. Escalades did not get the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller.
 

thompsoj22

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With trucks like that you ought to consider negotiating for a lower price or for the issues to be fixed. Dealerships will be more likely to make the necessary repairs as part of negotiation.

2012 and on will have some refinements like Hill Start Assist, an improved navigation unit and improvements for towing (Trailer Sway Control) and cruise control functions. Escalades did not get the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller.


Just a question, How can the tow vehicle possibly control sway? tell me it isnt with suspension dampening?
 

BG1988

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There’s definitely a lot of information on the AFM NNBS series. The trend is to disable it or acknowledge it by sticking to the maintenance intervals.
if my engine goes out i'll just put a 4.8 Liter engine and tras (will need a new drive shaft and radiator.)in it.. (they made a flex fuel right?) ECM etc...




I'm mostly worried about the A/C system not working since it's electrical.

then change the badge to a LT

even if it cost 5-6k it will still be totally worth it..
 

swathdiver

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Just a question, How can the tow vehicle possibly control sway? tell me it isnt with suspension dampening?

It's part of the Stabilitrak system (2012+), controlled by the ABS pump, locking and unlocking each wheel as necessary to regain control. It will also apply the trailer's brakes if the tow vehicles has the integrated trailer brake controller and can also reduce engine speed.



 
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Geotrash

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It's part of the Stabilitrak system (2012+), controlled by the ABS pump, locking and unlocking each wheels as necessary to regain control. It will also apply the trailer's brakes if the tow vehicles has the integrated trailer brake controller and can also reduce engine speed.



Huh. Had NO idea. And here all this time I’ve been turning off Stabilitrak when towing with my 2012. I even have the integrated brake controller, so from now on I will leave Stabilitrak on. Thank you, James!

We really should have a sticky thread for towing knowledge and mods for these rigs.


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Drwinlied

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It's crazy that we don't have the towing and 2500 differences as a sticky. Thats a ton of work for someone using a phone tho...

I definitely could have negotiated for the issues but I didn't want to deal with it. A few too many red flags or just crap I didn't want the hassle of...altho I could have slapped on some long tubes; I've never seen manifolds that bad
 

Geotrash

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It's crazy that we don't have the towing and 2500 differences as a sticky. Thats a ton of work for someone using a phone tho...

I definitely could have negotiated for the issues but I didn't want to deal with it. A few too many red flags or just crap I didn't want the hassle of...altho I could have slapped on some long tubes; I've never seen manifolds that bad
This is wise. Spend a little more money and get one that has an excellent maintenance history, and nothing needed. I often find buying from a private owner who takes care of their stuff is the best option.


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mikeyss

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This is wise. Spend a little more money and get one that has an excellent maintenance history, and nothing needed. I often find buying from a private owner who takes care of their stuff is the best option.


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Most of the time this is true, but just because a vehicle has excellent maintenance history, doesn't mean much if something like a valve seat comes apart and trashes the motor. Most times, private owners have sentimental attachments and often want to sell for a MUCH higher amount because of what money they spent on it. They feel entitled to raise the price of a vehicle worth $10k to 15K just because they put tires and did maintenance to it.
 

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