Can I use my stock UCA’s for a 3” lift?

[CAMASO]

Hello everyone, I’m new to the forum and was looking for some advice. Without success, I’ve also tried to find the answer on my own by searching the forum on my own. I own a 2014 GMC Yukon SLT, RWD, and have already purchased Rancho Quick Lifts along with 1 inch spacers for a 3 inch lift. I have also purchased extended Rancho shocks and coil spring spacers for the rear (to match the front). Question is, do I absolutely need to replace the stock upper control arms? I am unable to find a firm answer either way. Thanks again!

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@CAMASO I would also like to know this, from what I gather 3 inches is fully stressing the upper balljoint so you won't get full up and down suspension travel when driving down the road. At 3 inches rough country makes an upper control arm that is angled better to relieve the stress and help the suspension travel better. I look forward to what others have to say about this matter, my ball joints will need to be replaced soon and I am wondering if I should bite the bullet and get the lifted upper control arms and lift my tahoe a few inches in the process or if I should just stay with stock parts.

 

[CAMASO]

@Dustin Jackson I spoke to a Tech Rep at RealTruck.com who advised that 3” is the absolute maximum on stock UCA’s. In my case, I’ll probably be even better off since I’ll be installing Quick Lifts along with a 1” spacer. Apparently, from what I was told the Quick Lift is not a full 2” lift. So in the end I’ll be below the 3” maximum.

 

[CAMASO]

Just received my QuickLifts today. However, there appears to be some damage to the lower strut mount. The rubber appears to be protruding from the mount. Is this critical? Thanks!

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@CAMASO The finish on that thing does not look good, almost like it was used?

 

[CAMASO]

@Dustin Jackson, it doesn’t appear to have been used. But I did notice the left side of the lower strut mount was protruding from the housing. And the package it was shipped in was damaged. Most likely from the weight of the strut, since it was free floating in a very flimsy cardboard box. Smh..

 

[Tozan]

It should be fine.
So far as a new control arm I would replace it with one made for a mild lift.

 

[CAMASO]

It should be fine.
So far as a new control arm I would replace it with one made for a mild lift.

Appreciate the info!

 

[91RS]

I would replace it. All of these spacer lifts ruin the ball joint angles and they don't drive very well and wear the joints out faster. The control arms made for the lift should fix both of those things.

 

[09_4WD_YUKON]

Different forum, but lots of good info and reading material....
https://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/nnbs-1500-07-13-lift-kit-guide-read-before-posting.285328/

 

[Tozan]

I would replace it. All of these spacer lifts ruin the ball joint angles and they don't drive very well and wear the joints out faster. The control arms made for the lift should fix both of those things.

This really depends on the kit.. "All" is certainly not true. I am running a Rancho 4 inch spacer lift and it comes with new spindles that take care of the ball joint angles. Mine drives great even up to 80 mph across desert roads and behaves great on highways up to 115 mph.

I also have over 10 inches of wheel travel in the front.

 

[91RS]

That's because you fixed the ball joint angles. If you only do a spacer lift and nothing else they drive like crap.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

This really depends on the kit.. "All" is certainly not true. I am running a Rancho 4 inch spacer lift and it comes with new spindles that take care of the ball joint angles. Mine drives great even up to 80 mph across desert roads and behaves great on highways up to 115 mph.

I also have over 10 inches of wheel travel in the front.

@Tozan As a new person can you help me understand how to get more articulation in the front? I understand that you are running stock control arms so where does all the travel come from?

 

[Tozan]

@Tozan As a new person can you help me understand how to get more articulation in the front? I understand that you are running stock control arms so where does all the travel come from?

The main limiting factor is the amount of shock travel the stock shock and most aftermarket shocks have. If I remember right stock shocks have around 3.5 inches.

I have a set of custom built King shocks with over 5 inches of travel and removed the front sway bar too. I have a 4 inch Rancho kit that is no longer available it came with new spindles that take care of the ball joint problem.

My next project for the rear will be installing a new set of Spohn upper lower control arms and panhard bar with longer springs and a set of King 3.0 shocks and getting rid of the sway bar or at least putting a quick disconnect on them.

 

[Tozan]

If I was going to do this again... And I may do it anyway I would go with the Baja Kits Pre runner Kit

 

[Mighty Hd]

at 3", your ride is going to be terrible and *really* stressing the upper balljoint. RIP to your balljoints.

 

[CAMASO]

Hello all, been away for a bit due to life, but I was finally able to get the Yukon leveled. I went with Rancho Quicklifts all the way around. I also added Wulf 1/2 inch level kit in the front and ProRyde 1 inch blocks in the rear. Took a bit to figure what Rancho setting best suits the Yukon, but it all seems to be dialed in so far. Sorry, just realized I should have zoomed in a bit more on the photo. I’ll add more photos when the weather is better.

 

[CAMASO]

@Mighty Hd, you’re absolutely correct. After some research decided not to go with the 3” level.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@CAMASO Looks good man. They are right once you get to about 3 inches things get more complicated. I just put an additional 2.5 inch spacer in the front but I went with forged upper control arms to compensate for the angle. But now my rear axle is off center, looking into a longer track bar now.

 

[CAMASO]

Thanks @Dustin Jackson! Sometimes you really don’t have a true understanding until you’re in the wheel well digging around. Haha. When it comes time to replace the ball joints, I’m going with new UCA’s for a mild lift. For future purposes, what was your total rear lift?