I have a 2006 Chevy Tahoe that I have had for a year or so. I pulled it in my garage to put replacement rocker panels in.i put it on ramps on one side to make it easier for myself. I put the drivers side in Welded it pulled it off the ramps to put the ramps on the other side. I just got it done. Went smooth. When I got it completely done I went to pull it off the ramps it would start but for only a split second before shutting off. Now I’ve heard horror stories about people frying computers while welding if you didn’t take the ground off the battery. So I made sure to do that each time I welded. Also with the key on my windows don’t work. And as soon as you plug the battery back up the radio is always on no matter the key position. I would really appreciate some help on this one. Also I have checked all fuses.
2006 Tahoe. Will start but won’t run.
- Thread starter Canaan
- Start date
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Danny3737
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I know this is a long shot, but I wonder if the ignition switch went bad.
I wouldn’t think so because if the ignition switch was bad it wouldn’t run at all. With this particular situation it will run for a half send or so then Shut off.
dang it man. Try this, remove both battery cables and hold them together for +45 seconds then hook them back up to the battery that should reset the ECM as it will drain the retained residual system voltage allowing the modules to reset themselves.
That’s a good idea. Didn’t know that’s how you reset it. Would me taking the back doors off (also unplugging the wiring that goes to the doors also) effect anything?
Or the grounds are now having a problem after the twisting and leaning and grounding for welding.
https://www.fixmyoldride.com/Chevro...e7e5cd24ed24635&at_ab=per-2&at_pos=3&at_tot=4
We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.
If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.
https://www.fixmyoldride.com/Chevro...e7e5cd24ed24635&at_ab=per-2&at_pos=3&at_tot=4
We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.
If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.
when you turn the key to run is the security light flashing? or is it on solid
So Canaan did the battery cable trick work for you?
I Just went through a nightmare with the computer system on a 2009 Tahoe Hybrid. After the ABS assembly replacement was done the replacement module had to be programmed to match the vehicle and then that apparently upset ALL the little modules and they were not willing to play nice anymore, so a complete computer sequential relearn had to be done for the entire system. My poor repair shop spent two days on the phone with tech support services and had to borrow a Tech2 to do it but they eventually got it. They said that they might shoot at the next GM TwoMode Hybrid that they see roll into their parking lot Hahahahaha
If your welding upset the modules enough you may have to find a shop that has a Tech2 and the GM Tech resources available to reset everything. Cost me 100 bones for the programming and relearn so it is not too expensive considering that the truck was useless until it was done. Thanks GM for making everything so complicated LOL
I Just went through a nightmare with the computer system on a 2009 Tahoe Hybrid. After the ABS assembly replacement was done the replacement module had to be programmed to match the vehicle and then that apparently upset ALL the little modules and they were not willing to play nice anymore, so a complete computer sequential relearn had to be done for the entire system. My poor repair shop spent two days on the phone with tech support services and had to borrow a Tech2 to do it but they eventually got it. They said that they might shoot at the next GM TwoMode Hybrid that they see roll into their parking lot Hahahahaha
If your welding upset the modules enough you may have to find a shop that has a Tech2 and the GM Tech resources available to reset everything. Cost me 100 bones for the programming and relearn so it is not too expensive considering that the truck was useless until it was done. Thanks GM for making everything so complicated LOL
Charles_Colfax
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Anyone mind if I piggy back on this thread?
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Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
Welcome to the forum from Oregon.
You really should introduce yourself and post pics on your rig in the "Introductory" section. Also, post the problem you have in the correct year and model section.
We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.
If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.
