Yukon Denali 6.2 towing Travel Trailer

[thompsoj22]

The KNP should be the heavy duty one, but it is a lot smaller than any of the Tru-Cool ones.

At least, the KNP for 2002 is this one here:
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-20880895-Equipment-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B0049417FU

The regular one appears to be ACDELCO 52497562
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-52497562-Equipment-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B000C9TO5Q

I will say that for nearly all my towing, the heavy duty cooler did fine. It was just in the extremes like climbing up the Coq. did things struggle.

However, I do like that you were able to keep the AC running. On the Coq our engine temperatures were going a little above 212 at which point I turned the AC off and the heat on. You DO NOT want to have any sort of breakdown on the Coq. If you do a street view, you will see there is no place to pull over at all. At least the California Grapevine has more places to pull over.

Anyway, thanks, I now have some perspective. I'm quite surprised that keeping transmission temperatures down helped out that much with engine temperatures.

No there is plenty of air at 60 mph....

I know your probably right, but it is "preheating" the air to the condensor. Im way over thinking this! But we live in the upper mojave and in the summer 110 is a normal day!

 

[Costal_Cat]

The KNP should be the heavy duty one, but it is a lot smaller than any of the Tru-Cool ones.

At least, the KNP for 2002 is this one here:
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-20880895-Equipment-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B0049417FU

The regular one appears to be ACDELCO 52497562
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-52497562-Equipment-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B000C9TO5Q

I will say that for nearly all my towing, the heavy duty cooler did fine. It was just in the extremes like climbing up the Coq. did things struggle.

However, I do like that you were able to keep the AC running. On the Coq our engine temperatures were going a little above 212 at which point I turned the AC off and the heat on. You DO NOT want to have any sort of breakdown on the Coq. If you do a street view, you will see there is no place to pull over at all. At least the California Grapevine has more places to pull over.

Anyway, thanks, I now have some perspective. I'm quite surprised that keeping transmission temperatures down helped out that much with engine temperatures.

I was as well. But in my mind, I think that with the lines running through the radiator the cooler has to work doubly hard to get the temp down once it hit a certain point. Thus the bigger better cooler helps with all of this effort. What got me the most is that when I run off the highway into stop and go traffic the Tranny temp will actually drop even with the AC on and stopped so my thought is that the combination seems to do what folks said it would..

 

[Costal_Cat]

Just to add to this: If you don't want to take apart the front bumper/grill to
add an aux trans cooler you can replace the stock trans pan with one like
a B&M unit that has cooling fins on it and also holds about 2-3 qts more fluid.
I've used these types of pans on several of my vehicles and I can say that they
do work. Also you get the advantage of a drain plug and a pre-tapped bung for
adding a trans temp gauge if you like. Plus they are heavy and solid cast alum
so IMO they help "square" up the case and pan for some more rigidity

That was going to be my next addition if this did not as well as it has. I may do this still. I read it is a pain to get that pan off !! I would love a drain plug!

 

[petethepug]

I know your probably right, but it is "preheating" the air to the condensor. Im way over thinking this! But we live in the upper mojave and in the summer 110 is a normal day!

Nope, moving the trans cooler away from the A/C condenser and radiator is hitting the nail on the head. Yes, under the radiator or through the fog light area to the fender well is race bred technology.

Knowing you’ve got higher than normal ambient temps is not over thinking it. It’s thermally protecting it from wear. I’d towi in 110* with fresh coolant, water wetter additive and minimally a relocated trans cooler. It would isolate the engine load from the additional load of the trans and totally lower the under hood temps.

It not overthinking it, it’s ...

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[swathdiver]

Driving through city traffic yesterday, fair amount of lights and traffic, transmission temperature was 160s to 170s and it was 92 degrees outside. A ten minute highway run brought it down from the mid 170s to 160 and then she heated up a little the last few miles back to the house at 40 mph, 162 or 163. Truck was unladen, just me. She's stock with the factory cooler and the fluid is fresh.

 

[thompsoj22]

Nope, moving the trans cooler away from the A/C condenser and radiator is hitting the nail on the head. Yes, under the radiator or through the fog light area to the fender well is race bred technology.

Knowing you’ve got higher than normal ambient temps is not over thinking it. It’s thermally protecting it from wear. I’d towi in 110* with fresh coolant, water wetter additive and minimally a relocated trans cooler. It would isolate the engine load from the additional load of the trans and totally lower the under hood temps.

It not overthinking it, it’s ...

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I will definitley give my relocation a try, I know the method is correct and when i lay under the front of the vehicle the area behind the bumper is screaming for the cooler. Ill open up the fake facia lower grill and use a remote fan so it will function consistently with or without ram air effect. Thanke for the post.

 

[gooffeyguy]

I've seen trans coolers with fans mounted to them for placement along side frame rails, etc.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[steved34]

Simple question... Have new 19 yukon 4x4 6.2 w auto ride, been told i cant use airbags, have travel trailer that is 30' weighs 6500 dry and has tongue weight of 700lbs. I had airbags on my duramax so i didnt get that crazy sag, or bottoming out feeling. Any aftermarket suggestions? its hard for to believe that trailer is not gonna sag the crap out of a 1/2 ton when i did see some sag in a 3/4 ton. And yes i have weight distribution hitch.

 

[Larryjb]

Simple question... Have new 19 yukon 4x4 6.2 w auto ride, been told i cant use airbags, have travel trailer that is 30' weighs 6500 dry and has tongue weight of 700lbs. I had airbags on my duramax so i didnt get that crazy sag, or bottoming out feeling. Any aftermarket suggestions? its hard for to believe that trailer is not gonna sag the crap out of a 1/2 ton when i did see some sag in a 3/4 ton. And yes i have weight distribution hitch.

If you have a weight distributing hitch and have it adjusted correctly, you don't need airbags. In fact, a WDH is a much better and safer option.

 

[petethepug]

The bags (Z55) on the truck do no affect the capacity, only the way the suspension reacts to the weight. The WDH is going to do all the magic and get the weight over the rear axle into spec.

Who ever said you can't use bags (alone) to tow that trailer is correct. The next question they should of inquired about is, do you had a WDH. Once the WDH is dialed in the bags on the Denali level the truck off so you don't blind oncoming traffic and regain almost all of your steering control. The Z55, unlike old skool bags, continually monitor the ride height and adjust themselves. You'll only notice what you're missing with Z55. It nearly eliminates hitch drag when entering extreme driveways at a crawl and acts as a buffer if all the extras wifey snuck in the trailer adds a little more tongue weight.

 

[intheburbs]

Simple question... Have new 19 yukon 4x4 6.2 w auto ride, been told i cant use airbags, have travel trailer that is 30' weighs 6500 dry and has tongue weight of 700lbs. I had airbags on my duramax so i didnt get that crazy sag, or bottoming out feeling. Any aftermarket suggestions? its hard for to believe that trailer is not gonna sag the crap out of a 1/2 ton when i did see some sag in a 3/4 ton. And yes i have weight distribution hitch.

Let's review some basic trailer-towing physics.
Tongue weight - a properly-balanced trailer has about 13% of the weight on the tongue. So a 6500-lb trailer should have about 845 lbs of tongue weight, not 700 lbs. Folks usually travel with between 500 and 1000 lbs of crap added to the trailer, so now you're approaching 1000 lbs of tongue weight. Problem is, your half-ton has about 1500 lbs of payload, so now you and your passengers and gear in the truck better all weigh 500 lbs or less, combined.

Half-ton trucks are also handicapped by the weak rear semi-floater axle. Depending on year/model, the rear axle is rated to only 4000 or 4200 lbs. Throw on that trailer tongue and you'll blast right past that 4200-lb rating. So what do folks do? They use a weight-distributing hitch. This takes weight off the rear axle and transfers it back to the trailer wheels and also back to the front axle of the tow vehicle.

Now, let's come back around to that whole tongue weight thing. More tongue weight equals more stability. Less tongue weight makes you less stable and more prone to sway.

So a half-ton owner with a big trailer is caught in a catch-22. They can't have a heavy tongue because it overloads either their payload rating or rear axle rating, or both. But if they crank the bars/chains/whatever too tightly on their weight distribution system and remove too much tongue weight, they make the rig much more unstable and prone to sway, or worse.

I towed a 7,000-lb trailer with my half-ton 2001 Suburban all around the country, including the Rockies. While I wouldn't say I was white-knuckled all the time, I'll simply say it was never boring. I also broke 3 rear axles on that truck.

This is why I upgraded to a 2500 Suburban. 2100-lb payload, and a Godzilla rear axle that is rated by the manufacturer to carry over 8,000 lbs. Yes, 8,000 - that's not a typo. On my truck it's limited to 6,000 lbs because that's the weight-carrying limit of my tires. If I had dual rear wheels, I could go heavier. The trailer I now tow is 8600 lbs, and yes, it is boring to tow, even in the Rockies.

 

[avalonandl]

Simple question... Have new 19 yukon 4x4 6.2 w auto ride, been told i cant use airbags, have travel trailer that is 30' weighs 6500 dry and has tongue weight of 700lbs. I had airbags on my duramax so i didnt get that crazy sag, or bottoming out feeling. Any aftermarket suggestions? its hard for to believe that trailer is not gonna sag the crap out of a 1/2 ton when i did see some sag in a 3/4 ton. And yes i have weight distribution hitch.

You already have air shocks if you have the autoride. You can put Timbrens bumpers on like I did since I have air shocks also. That way you get no sag. As noted above a properly balanced trailer and WDH is important.

 

[Geotrash]

This thread has sold me on a tru-cool. My wife and I have now made 2 trips across the country (Virginia to Colorado and back) hauling a loaded 5x10 cargo trailer with our 2012 Denali. This last trip westbound climbing through western Kansas and into eastern Colorado onto the Colorado plateau (106 degrees on the OAT sensor) was the first time I saw my engine temps climb above the 210 halfway mark on the gauge, toward the 230 mark. I was suspecting a thermostat, but it sounds like this is perfectly normal without something like a tru-cool, yes?

 

[Big Mama]

Yes it does. You were probably in thinner air which can reduce power and make the engine work harder. How much weight was in the trailer?

 

[Geotrash]

Yes it does. You were probably in thinner air which can reduce power and make the engine work harder. How much weight was in the trailer?

Total weight of the trailer and cargo was about 2500 pounds. Not bad. But we were also pushing into a pretty good headwind.


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[Big Mama]

I think that’s only about 1/3 of what it can do unless your rig was loaded down too. If I only happens in this circumstance I’d say you’re fine. You might want to make sure your trans fluid is fresh and clean though.

 

[Derick]

Let's review some basic trailer-towing physics.
Tongue weight - a properly-balanced trailer has about 13% of the weight on the tongue. So a 6500-lb trailer should have about 845 lbs of tongue weight, not 700 lbs. Folks usually travel with between 500 and 1000 lbs of crap added to the trailer, so now you're approaching 1000 lbs of tongue weight. Problem is, your half-ton has about 1500 lbs of payload, so now you and your passengers and gear in the truck better all weigh 500 lbs or less, combined.

Half-ton trucks are also handicapped by the weak rear semi-floater axle. Depending on year/model, the rear axle is rated to only 4000 or 4200 lbs. Throw on that trailer tongue and you'll blast right past that 4200-lb rating. So what do folks do? They use a weight-distributing hitch. This takes weight off the rear axle and transfers it back to the trailer wheels and also back to the front axle of the tow vehicle.

Now, let's come back around to that whole tongue weight thing. More tongue weight equals more stability. Less tongue weight makes you less stable and more prone to sway.

So a half-ton owner with a big trailer is caught in a catch-22. They can't have a heavy tongue because it overloads either their payload rating or rear axle rating, or both. But if they crank the bars/chains/whatever too tightly on their weight distribution system and remove too much tongue weight, they make the rig much more unstable and prone to sway, or worse.

I towed a 7,000-lb trailer with my half-ton 2001 Suburban all around the country, including the Rockies. While I wouldn't say I was white-knuckled all the time, I'll simply say it was never boring. I also broke 3 rear axles on that truck.

This is why I upgraded to a 2500 Suburban. 2100-lb payload, and a Godzilla rear axle that is rated by the manufacturer to carry over 8,000 lbs. Yes, 8,000 - that's not a typo. On my truck it's limited to 6,000 lbs because that's the weight-carrying limit of my tires. If I had dual rear wheels, I could go heavier. The trailer I now tow is 8600 lbs, and yes, it is boring to tow, even in the Rockies.

Every time I start considering getting rid of the effing burb, I read one of your posts and I have faith that at some point in time soon mine will rock my world with reliability.

 

[intheburbs]

Every time I start considering getting rid of the effing burb, I read one of your posts and I have faith that at some point in time soon mine will rock my world with reliability.

So, what are you saying, yours is a clunker?

 

[Derick]

So, what are you saying, yours is a clunker?

Just everytime I think I'm in the clear.....shit goes sideways. I'm getting tired of it. After it came back from trans rebuild...get 3 months down the road, and the MAF circuit goes out and have to get that fixed up. Now the damn exhaust manifold is leaking, again. I'm hoping after new wheel bearings, exhaust manifold repair, and coolant system hardening, I'll be good for a long time.

 

[intheburbs]

Just everytime I think I'm in the clear.....shit goes sideways. I'm getting tired of it. After it came back from trans rebuild...get 3 months down the road, and the MAF circuit goes out and have to get that fixed up. Now the damn exhaust manifold is leaking, again. I'm hoping after new wheel bearings, exhaust manifold repair, and coolant system hardening, I'll be good for a long time.

Wow, that's a lot going wrong. How many miles?

Mine rolled 200k in April, and she's still all-oringinal - powertrain, suspension, hell I've owned her for 7 years and 90k miles and haven't even replaced the brake pads. Lots of highway driving (though I did drive for Uber for a while in Ann Arbor - lots of starts/stops/idling), always garaged, and religiously **** about fluid changes/PM.