What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Rocket Man]

Lol. Have seen the pickle fork mentioned on here. Ok cool. Not too much rust, or Northeast rust per say. Guess it is time to find parts.

Do you think the inner tie rod damage has anything to do with being lowered and the change in geometry from OEM or just wear and tear over the years? Just curious if any thoughts?

@Rocket Man Do you have any input on the change out (parts of process) or anything else to look for while under there and things are slightly torn apart?

@Doubeleive is leading you in the right direction. I think it’s normal wearing iirc you’re lowered on spindles which doesn’t change geometry so there shouldn’t be any wear from lowering per se. Just check for play in components or if you’re concerned and depending on mileage you could opt to just do everything. That’s what I did but I tend to over do things. I just figured at 150 k I didn’t want to mess with doing it piecemeal so I did all the steering and suspension all at once. I used Moog’s Problem Solver line on almost everything except the Pitman arm because I heard about problems with the Moog and went with AC Delco Professional on it. I did all the tie rods, upper control arms, lower ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm and bracket. Not saying you need to but I would consider it depending on your mileage like I said, and taking into consideration your budget and whether anything has been previously replaced.

 

[Fosscore]

@Doubeleive is leading you in the right direction. I think it’s normal wearing iirc you’re lowered on spindles which doesn’t change geometry so there shouldn’t be any wear from lowering per se. Just check for play in components or if you’re concerned and depending on mileage you could opt to just do everything. That’s what I did but I tend to over do things. I just figured at 150 k I didn’t want to mess with doing it piecemeal so I did all the steering and suspension all at once. I used Moog’s Problem Solver line on almost everything except the Pitman arm because I heard about problems with the Moog and went with AC Delco Professional on it. I did all the tie rods, upper control arms, lower ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm and bracket. Not saying you need to but I would consider it depending on your mileage like I said, and taking into consideration your budget and whether anything has been previously replaced.

Thx Mark. Knew you would have some great supplemental info to what @Doubeleive was giving.

Coming up on 80k. Nothing looks to have been replaced, but going to check all previous service records (I am lucky to have everything from 0 miles).

Lowered on control arms (only the lower was replaced at the time as replacing the upper at the time was another chunk of change) not spindles. Was NorCal SS kit.

Moog Problem Solver, that was the other name I had seen in the Moog line.

And going back to a blacked out Denali lowered. Cannot remember his screen name but it was a sweet ride.

He used these parts
http://rareparts.com/

Said they were pretty HD and pricey too.

Thx for some good info and now some shopping to do and find the time to break it down.

Great learning resource.
thx guys.

 

[915_Tahoe]

Just replaced the rear shocks in the 01 hoe, and pulled these out.

Bilstein T9R
Replaced them with the rockauto special.

 

[dszx13]

Damn pellets!! Like deja vu from last week for me. Nice work. Did you change out any of the components of the evap system?

Just the vent solenoid. I blew all the lines out each way multiple times to makes sure I got it all out. So far so good


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[Fosscore]

Just the vent solenoid. I blew all the lines out each way multiple times to makes sure I got it all out. So far so good


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Nice work. I had a load of pellets on the ground and in each part and lines. I ended up changing all 3 components - Vent solenoid, vapor canister and purge valve.

Maybe didn’t need to but figured might as well make it all new.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Just replaced the rear shocks in the 01 hoe, and pulled these out.

Bilstein T9R
Replaced them with the rockauto special.

View attachment 232510

Don't those have a life time warranty? Or even rebuildable?

 

[dszx13]

Nice work. I had a load of pellets on the ground and in each part and lines. I ended up changing all 3 components - Vent solenoid, vapor canister and purge valve.

Maybe didn’t need to but figured might as well make it all new.

Duh. I did replace the canister. Didn’t even think of that. Lol. I pulled the purge and looked at it. No pellets inside so I didn’t change it


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[Fosscore]

Duh. I did replace the canister. Didn’t even think of that. Lol. I pulled the purge and looked at it. No pellets inside so I didn’t change it


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That vapor canister is expensive too, but having a WOT fuel fill is worth it and no pellets or Codes either.

 

[iddqd]

Crawling underneath the front end this weekend and noticed this.

Appears both sides are torn.

Suggestions on fix/replacement?

View attachment 232456 View attachment 232457 View attachment 232458

I will sound like a snob, but I always use and recommend OEM (or OEM supplier) for engine, transmission and brakes. In our case do think that OEM tie rods are the best you can get. You can find them pretty cheap on eBay

 

[iddqd]

Owners manuals are pretty cheap on EBay and you might learn about features you never knew your truck had.

Owners manuals are free on chevy website

 

[915_Tahoe]

Don't those have a life time warranty? Or even rebuildable?

if that's true, who do i get ahold of for warrenty. when i bought the truck these were on there, never even new what brand they were when i replaced them.

 

[Rocket Man]

if that's true, who do i get ahold of for warrenty. when i bought the truck these were on there, never even new what brand they were when i replaced them.

Their warranty, like most everybody else’s, is for the original purchaser with proof of purchase. It is a limited lifetime warranty. Wear and tear isn’t covered. From Bilsteins website:

“Many of our products have a limited lifetime warranty. This warranty does not cover wear and tear of the shock. Warranty returns of our products are required to go back through our distributors. If you believe the product to have a manufacturing defect, you will need to reach out to your original place of purchase to discuss your warranty options. Here is a link to our warranty information on our website for your review. CLICK HERE for more Warranty Information.”

I’m not sure about rebuilding them.

 

[Sam Harris]

Finally got a cold start video this am with the AR Headers, and Magnaflow 18”. Sounds like I need a battery too. [emoji35]

 

[915_Tahoe]

Their warranty, like most everybody else’s, is for the original purchaser with proof of purchase. It is a limited lifetime warranty. Wear and tear isn’t covered. From Bilsteins website:

“Many of our products have a limited lifetime warranty. This warranty does not cover wear and tear of the shock. Warranty returns of our products are required to go back through our distributors. If you believe the product to have a manufacturing defect, you will need to reach out to your original place of purchase to discuss your warranty options. Here is a link to our warranty information on our website for your review. CLICK HERE for more Warranty Information.”

I’m not sure about rebuilding them.

i figured that.

 

[Rocket Man]

Finally got a cold start video this am with the AR Headers, and Magnaflow 18”. Sounds like I need a battery too. [emoji35]

Sounds good but man rev that thing up, I wanna hear it!

 

[Sam Harris]

Sounds good but man rev that thing up, I wanna hear it!

Hehe. Alright. I’ll have to do another with some revs in it. Lol. Sounds damn good driving, but can’t hear much of that with a cell phone recording. [emoji16][emoji106]

 

[Sam Harris]

Check engine light this am. Unfortunately I don’t have my cheapie code reader with me. Have to see when I get home. I noticed I do have an exhaust leak between the headers, and factory exhaust, so I’m hoping that’s what it is. [emoji1696]

 

[Rocket Man]

Check engine light this am. Unfortunately I don’t have my cheapie code reader with me. Have to see when I get home. I noticed I do have an exhaust leak between the headers, and factory exhaust, so I’m hoping that’s what it is. [emoji1696]

I hate not knowing. Drives me crazy.

 

[ladorn45]

@Doubeleive is leading you in the right direction. I think it’s normal wearing iirc you’re lowered on spindles which doesn’t change geometry so there shouldn’t be any wear from lowering per se. Just check for play in components or if you’re concerned and depending on mileage you could opt to just do everything. That’s what I did but I tend to over do things. I just figured at 150 k I didn’t want to mess with doing it piecemeal so I did all the steering and suspension all at once. I used Moog’s Problem Solver line on almost everything except the Pitman arm because I heard about problems with the Moog and went with AC Delco Professional on it. I did all the tie rods, upper control arms, lower ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm and bracket. Not saying you need to but I would consider it depending on your mileage like I said, and taking into consideration your budget and whether anything has been previously replaced.

Rocket Man do you by any chance have your grocery parts list available to share. I was thinking of doing this eventually to my tahoe, but I am worried I miss part or accessory during install.

 

[Rocket Man]

Rocket Man do you by any chance have your grocery parts list available to share. I was thinking of doing this eventually to my tahoe, but I am worried I miss part or accessory during install.

The list is right there, I listed them all. Inner and outer tie rods (4pcs), upper control arms which include upper ball joints (2pcs), lower ball joints (2 pcs), pitman arm (1piece), idler arm (1piece), idler arm bracket (1piece). I don’t think I’m forgetting anything. Your part numbers will probably be different than my 02 Denali.