What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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brian.roberts.1293

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Upgraded (IMO) my dash to two-tone black and tan this weekend by installing a Coverlay dash cover. Also replaced the clips on my Metra double-din dash bezel from the ****** aftermarket ones it comes with to new OEM clips I ordered. It fits way better now–much more tight and sturdy. I walked through both upgrades in a video:


View attachment 227390
I'm the guy that found you bud by random on YouTube. To funny

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Woodblocker55

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2006 Yukon XL remote start .... I was at GM dealership he informed me my remote start was after market . It's the hit lock button 3 times and it fires up . Anyway must be a dealer installed or something . So thats confusing last owner was told it was factory OEM always works perfect..

Got air conditioner charged they said it was empty $150 works perfect now . But he said could last week or could last 6 months lol. Add$10.50 for dye to find leak . I was amazed all worked perfect radiator fans kicked on. Front 2 zones work great and rear air-conditioning works perfect .. I was shocked because I figured it be a big problem case ..
That's one awesome air conditioning system in them yukons XL [emoji106][emoji41] ( First time I seen it work since I got it )

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ivin74

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TheAutumnWind

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Mobil 1 0w30 esp

Either amsoil eao64 or Fram ph3675

Was 3.5k

Shortened to 2.5k

My poor rig gets the hell short tripped out of it especially in winter where I loathe driving anywhere

Switching to Castrol euro 0w40 cause the local Napa stopped with their specials. Used to be able to get it for dirt cheap but meh. We'll see how the Castrol does. It's Thin for a 40 but my only worry is it might be a wee thick for my application. 13.2cst at 100c if I recall
Mobil 1 0w30 esp

Either amsoil eao64 or Fram ph3675

Was 3.5k

Shortened to 2.5k

My poor rig gets the hell short tripped out of it especially in winter where I loathe driving anywhere

Switching to Castrol euro 0w40 cause the local Napa stopped with their specials. Used to be able to get it for dirt cheap but meh. We'll see how the Castrol does. It's Thin for a 40 but my only worry is it might be a wee thick for my application. 13.2cst at 100c if I recall

Interesting. I've run mostly mobil 1 5w-30 or pennzoil platinum (depending on sales I usually get 5-6 qts for 10-$15 amir) but always full synthetic and just change when the truck reminds me to do so. Mine gets short tripped a lot around town with the wife running the kids around but I've never run into that issue. Then again it also gets used for long trips on the weekends so that may be its saving grace.

I've considered something like the 0-40 for awhile. Supposed to be better base stocks I guess? Where we are In CA we dont really get winter so I should probably run a heavier oil.
 

SnowDrifter

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Tire balance. They were almost an ounce off o_O


Need to do trans filter, oil change, power steering fluid, and air filters. But God damnit I just have no drive right now.


Also @TheAutumnWind heat is an interesting one. Higher external Temps don't necessarily correlate to higher engine Temps or oil temperature. Once the engine is hot, I have the same oil Pressure whether it be - 5 outside or 100 degrees. It does a pretty good job of regulating itself. The only real difference is cold oil Pressure, which is higher with colder Temps. But that should surprise no one. I ran 0w30 year round. If you want to do some math or look at charts, 0w30 with abugher viscosity index is actually thicker than a 5w30 or 10w30 above 100c. Tl;Dr an oil's viscosity index is an inverse measurement of the oil's change in viscosity with respect to temperature. In other words, a 0w30 won't be as thick as a 10w30 when cold, and it won't thin out as much as a 10w30 would above 100c. Imagine a graph, with viscosity on the Y axis, and temperature on the X axis. A higher VII has a shallower slope, with the intercept points of all the lines(well, curves) meeting at 100c. It's why I always chuckled to myself when someone suggests "stepping up to" a 10w30 for hot weather. Or huffs and puffs when I say I run a 0w30 in the summer and they scream too thin. 3 of my major shopping points when I'm evaluating an oil are the viscosity listed at 100c - which is now thick it is at operating temp, the viscosity index, which we had already touched on, and the HTHS (high temp high shear) values of an oil, which is its resistance to becoming thin under high load - think the opposite of a non Newtonian fluid, which gets thick when agitated. High temp high shear mean the oil would get thin. Think conditions such as full load at redline in a main bearing, or your timing chain. The higher the value the better, with 3.5 being about the maximum you can get with a 30 weight.

To be clear, I'm not advising you on what to rum. Just trying to provide some useful info to aid in your making a decision.
 

TheAutumnWind

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Tire balance. They were almost an ounce off o_O


Need to do trans filter, oil change, power steering fluid, and air filters. But God damnit I just have no drive right now.


Also @TheAutumnWind heat is an interesting one. Higher external Temps don't necessarily correlate to higher engine Temps or oil temperature. Once the engine is hot, I have the same oil Pressure whether it be - 5 outside or 100 degrees. It does a pretty good job of regulating itself. The only real difference is cold oil Pressure, which is higher with colder Temps. But that should surprise no one. I ran 0w30 year round. If you want to do some math or look at charts, 0w30 with abugher viscosity index is actually thicker than a 5w30 or 10w30 above 100c. Tl;Dr an oil's viscosity index is an inverse measurement of the oil's change in viscosity with respect to temperature. In other words, a 0w30 won't be as thick as a 10w30 when cold, and it won't thin out as much as a 10w30 would above 100c. Imagine a graph, with viscosity on the Y axis, and temperature on the X axis. A higher VII has a shallower slope, with the intercept points of all the lines(well, curves) meeting at 100c. It's why I always chuckled to myself when someone suggests "stepping up to" a 10w30 for hot weather. Or huffs and puffs when I say I run a 0w30 in the summer and they scream too thin. 3 of my major shopping points when I'm evaluating an oil are the viscosity listed at 100c - which is now thick it is at operating temp, the viscosity index, which we had already touched on, and the HTHS (high temp high shear) values of an oil, which is its resistance to becoming thin under high load - think the opposite of a non Newtonian fluid, which gets thick when agitated. High temp high shear mean the oil would get thin. Think conditions such as full load at redline in a main bearing, or your timing chain. The higher the value the better, with 3.5 being about the maximum you can get with a 30 weight.

To be clear, I'm not advising you on what to rum. Just trying to provide some useful info to aid in your making a decision.

I need to do front/rear diff fluid & xfer case on the caddy, and rear diff & trans & oil & spark plugs & ad244 upgrade, & U joint & fix the a/c for real this time on the gmt400... I've been putting it off too. I can relate.
 

HiHoeSilver

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I need to do front/rear diff fluid & xfer case on the caddy, and rear diff & trans & oil & spark plugs & ad244 upgrade, & U joint & fix the a/c for real this time on the gmt400... I've been putting it off too. I can relate.

What's ad244 upgrade?
 

SnowDrifter

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Got the pan off. Letting the thing drip dry right now so I'm not catching the shit in my mouth.

Fluid looks good, no concerning smells or discoloration. Minor sediment on the magnets. Have yet to inspect filter, that's draining out too. Can make a determination on my service interval then. Sitting at 40k right now if I remember right.

I will say the included gasket I used last time ******* sucked. And that was an ac Delco kit. Came out of the box like a limp dick and came off hard and stiff. Minor weep at front of the pan, verified Bolts still held torque. Picked up a lube locker unit to replace

20190726_165840.jpg 20190726_170500.jpg 20190726_170029.jpg
 

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