Overloaded Yukon - now getting service stabilitrac and traction control, and ABS light

[Jim Morrison]

Welcome to spring! I've read lots of threads about these lights and need some help with what order to check/replace things based on what happened.

I loaded a few cement retaining blocks in the back of my Yukon (nothing crazy, but apparently too many). Turning on my street at around 5-10 mph I heard a ping that sounded like the suspension, not normal but also not like something failed or broke.

Immediately after, the Service Stabilitrac, Service Traction Control and ABS light all came on and have stayed on. Any opinions what I should check/replace to get this fixed?

 

[02Lightning]

Check for codes, and go from there.

 

[Big Mama]

stabilitrac and abs lights usually go together. Not sure your year but a few blocks shouldn’t blow an air shock. I’ve had over 500 lbs of mulch, blocks, sod you name it with no issue. Get under it and look for loose connections on all 4 and as 02 mentioned code reader with the ability to read abs

 

[Jim Morrison]

Sorry, this is a 2013 Yukon Denali. I'm trying to avoid taking it to the dealer for a $90 diagnostic scan, my reader only pulled engine codes.

I'll get under and check for any loose connections. Would blowing an air shock cause those lights to go on? I'll try to check that out too.

 

[02Lightning]

I think the auto parts stores can read ABS codes for free.

 

[petethepug]

Check your sway bar attachment points.


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[Doubeleive]

a "ping" noise could have been a right height sensor there is one by each wheel, nothing is going to get that code but a higher end scanner like a tech2 or a snap on, etc.. so unless you can visually see something broken or damaged then your just guessing. a blown air shock bladder would not set a code unless it made the vehicle tilt to such a degree that the ride height sensor detected something was seriously out of whack.

 

[swathdiver]

a "ping" noise could have been a right height sensor there is one by each wheel,

My first thought!

Dude, $90 is nothing when it comes to throwing parts at a problem. If you're going to keep that Denali Jim, get the Tech-2.

 

[Big Mama]

Ok so we have the same rig and a few or 2 dozen blocks shouldn’t cause any problems but I like what Wes said about the right height. It’s a thin rod that screws in to a small black rubber cap on all 4. Depending on your wheels you might see it from the outside.

 

[Jim Morrison]

Sorry for the long wait, I visually inspected everything I could but it all looked okay.

I ordered a BlueDrive ODB2 Reader and pulled a:
C0035 CODE DEFINITION:
• LF wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction

LF looked okay but I’ll be able to look at it better at home. Investigation continues.

 

[Doubeleive]

Sorry for the long wait, I visually inspected everything I could but it all looked okay.

I ordered a BlueDrive ODB2 Reader and pulled a:
C0035 CODE DEFINITION:
• LF wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction

LF looked okay but I’ll be able to look at it better at home. Investigation continues.

I would check that left wheel hub, jack up the wheel so it is off the ground then try and wiggle it at 12 & 6, there should be no play, there will be some at 9 & 3 because of the steering, you can also spin the wheel and listen for any noises.

 

[Big Mama]

That would explain the lights it may just be loose but if not no big deal to replace

 

[swathdiver]

Sorry for the long wait, I visually inspected everything I could but it all looked okay.

I ordered a BlueDrive ODB2 Reader and pulled a:
C0035 CODE DEFINITION:
• LF wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction

LF looked okay but I’ll be able to look at it better at home. Investigation continues.

Was there a Symptom Number behind the code? For example, C0035 00 or C0035 5A?

This will more specifically explain the problem. It boils down to this, you have a loose or broken connection, bad wiring or a bad sensor in the hub. If the latter, you have to change out the entire hub and most of us use Timken as they are OE supplier. I've bought Chicom hubs that mechanically were fine but did not work with vehicle's ABS so consider that.

Unplug the connector, blow out the dirt, check the wiring and if all looks ok, time for a hub. If you want to do it yourself, we'll give you the torque specs and tell you what tools you'll need and such.

 

[Rocket Man]

Was there a Symptom Number behind the code? For example, C0035 00 or C0035 5A?

This will more specifically explain the problem. It boils down to this, you have a loose or broken connection, bad wiring or a bad sensor in the hub. If the latter, you have to change out the entire hub and most of us use Timken as they are OE supplier. I've bought Chicom hubs that mechanically were fine but did not work with vehicle's ABS so consider that.

Unplug the connector, blow out the dirt, check the wiring and if all looks ok, time for a hub. If you want to do it yourself, we'll give you the torque specs and tell you what tools you'll need and such.

I thought the sensors can be replaced by themselves? I know you can buy them separately.

 

[swathdiver]

I thought the sensors can be replaced by themselves? I know you can buy them separately.

Out back yes, the front are in the hub and part of it.

 

[Big Mama]

James, can you explain the symptom number thing? I don’t have a Tech2 but my reader goes pretty deep. Will the code actually look like you stated p0455 S5 for example? I made that one up but you get the idea.