Battery not charging

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Steve Waddington

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Came out to the car today to started up the car started just fine but I had the message in the display saying battery not charging and look at the gauge on the dashboard and it truly was not charging. Drove down the street got the RPMs up to normal cruising speed, and the battery started charging came up to a red light , idled for s few mins, battery was still charging. Turn off the car, went into the store, came back out, started the car and receive the message battery not charging. Drove the car for a few blocks battery is in fact charging again. Have any of you guys had this issue? Is it my Alternator?
 

Doubeleive

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could be the alternator is taking a dump, but..... that being said: how old is the battery? and have you cleaned up the battery post's and grounds to the firewall or block?
sometimes corrosion can be hidden even if the battery post's look ok it might be a good idea to take them off and clean them up with a wire brush
also most auto parts stores like autozone, O-Reilly's, etc will test your alternator for free but if it's intermittent they may not detect it.
good luck!
 
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Steve Waddington

Steve Waddington

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I was going to check all the cables... they look clean... but it started pouring down rain again! And then I also remembered, if I do that, I won’t have a radio!! I bought this used and don’t have the code to the radio! If I disconnect the battery, no radio!
 

PG01

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I was going to check all the cables... they look clean... but it started pouring down rain again! And then I also remembered, if I do that, I won’t have a radio!! I bought this used and don’t have the code to the radio! If I disconnect the battery, no radio!
Either way, you’re gonna lose the radio oncevthe battery dies on you... stuck at the store with dead battery and no radio or clean grounds, clean cables, new battery and no radio.... easy choice for me. Pretty much any dealer or stereo shop can get around the code anyway..
 

SnowDrifter

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What's the charge voltage at time of message? Check with a multi meter both at alt, from charge stud to casing, and at the battery, from positive to negative cables.

If note: the cables on these trucks sometimes like to corrode internally and due to the design of the cable, you can't tell from a quick glance. The insulation and connectors look fine but the inside's a mess!
 

Tonyrodz

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You shouldn't need a code. If it's the original radio, as long as the Vin matches its memory there shouldn't be a problem.
 
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Steve Waddington

Steve Waddington

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Started the Tahoe this afternoon. Was like nothing ever happened. No message, the gauge showed charging at 14, so I figured we’re ok for now. Went to the first gig, no problem, packed up and was driving to the second gig, and “ battery not charging”, the icon red light was on the dash and the gauge was almost on zero... dash light flickers, I pulled over to the curb and... dead! Waited almost two hours for AAA flatbed, got it home, switched gear to g/f’s car and made it up the 2nd gig just in the nick Of time!
Ok.. so now back home and looking at auto zone website, new Duralast Gold, 145 amp and new, not Reman, part DLG1923-16-4. Says it fits my Tahoe.
The AC Delcos are all Reman.
What do you guys think? New vs Reman?Might need a new battery now too.
 

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A NEW AGM is $160 from rockauto I think they have the best price, autozone probably has one local for $180 plus a core
 

Fless

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There have been several good suggestions made. Have the cables been cleaned and checked? Alternator and battery tested? Unless more has been done than we know, it sounds like there needs to be a bit more troubleshooting before throwing parts at it.
 
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Steve Waddington

Steve Waddington

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Cables looked and felt fine. This Tahoe has been on the west coast it’s entire life, so no rust or corrosion.
I bought the Duralast Gold 145 alternator and their top battery. Also “borrowed” the serpentine belt tool.
Replacing both was a very simple job!
Quick and easy .
Looks like the orig alternator just crapped out after 16 years.
 

dubyagee01

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I use a portable battery to keep the radio programmed and the AC from “flipping out” on my 05. Plugs into a 12 volt power port. Have to be careful not to allow the positive terminal to touch any grounds so I clean it first and tape it off.
 

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Wes
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there is a tool for belts on some cars/trucks its a breaker bar with a special bend in it had to use one on my sisters Chrysler, tried everything to get that dam belt on it was no go without the tool, rented the tool had the belt on in 5 seconds
 
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Steve Waddington

Steve Waddington

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It’s s long, flat, straight bar with a socket holder on the end and a handful of different size sockets . The 15mm fit my pulley. MUCH easier to change the alternator than in my 68 Caddy!

Oh, and I forgot to add that I got this “memory keeper” thing... basically a 9 volt battery that plugs into one of the power sockets in the car, and saves the memory settings and radio settings.

But one question, if the battery completely dies, how do you open the lift gate?!
 

afpj

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It’s s long, flat, straight bar with a socket holder on the end and a handful of different size sockets . The 15mm fit my pulley. MUCH easier to change the alternator than in my 68 Caddy!

Oh, and I forgot to add that I got this “memory keeper” thing... basically a 9 volt battery that plugs into one of the power sockets in the car, and saves the memory settings and radio settings.

But one question, if the battery completely dies, how do you open the lift gate?!

Usethekeyto unlock the liftgate (the button to release the rear glass has a keyhole) then lift up on the handle to unlatch...your setup might be different from my02,but I didn’t think these nbs had power liftgates.
 

darkcyde3000

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So I I have a 2003 Z71 and replaced 2 batteries and an alternator with similar issues. I finally came across something that said to try cleaning the throttle body. There was dirt in it keeping it from closing all the way. 30 minutes after R&I and cleaning and never had issues with it again.
 

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