2005 Tahoe - Brakes / traction control active

[chrmbly]

Hello everyone -

Been using the site for a while with my 3 mo old 'new to me' granddad special 2005 tahoe LT I bought with only 85k miles. Put a ton of work into it (mostly wear items) - water pump, belts, brakes, rotors, new rear calipers, and the dreaded air ride shocks on the rear (for autoride). It has the 5.3L. All in all she's running great for the moment. Still have a few issues, which i could use some help on.

1) I have a weird sound that sounds like a quack or a little huff of air - 'meh' is the best way i can describe it, not long after i start it - usually coincides with turning the wheel after pulling out of a space or something. I heard it again the other day while on the road and got the 'traction active' warning with the power getting cut. From what i've been reading I'm thinking speed sensor in the driver side hub? Maybe I'll go and de-rust the area around the sensor?

2) Although the brakes seem fine (new fluid, pads, rotors, and rear calipers which were previously seized) I get what seems to be a vaccum leak when I stomp on the brakes hard when stopped. I get a hissing sound in the cabin and a drop in engine rpm, which almost starts to lug. Then i realized that my 'hoe has the hydroboost brake booster, so I'm at a bit of a loss since it's not a vaccum unit. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[retiredsparky]

The turning of the wheel involves the yaw sensor on the steering shaft--if the sensor is malfunctioning, engine power will be cut to allow the vehicle to stop "skidding". Also, the turning of the wheel requires the power steering pump to increase output to maintain pressure. The hissing, meh noise could be the pressure regulator activating. If the pump is loading the engine due to a pump problem such as a binding shaft, etc. the idle will temporarily drop.

Have you thought of finding a similar vehicle and listening to the power steering system for differences, similarities? Even a ½ ton pickup with the hydro boost. Speed sensors on the wheels could be the problem for sure.

Good luck

 

[chrmbly]

Thanks for the reply. I'm going to try the 'abs sensor fix' while i'm getting my wheels repainted next week - remove them and decrud the rust off the hub and see if it helps.

 

[chrmbly]

I'll have to see if I can find someone w/ a comparable vehicle - that's a good suggestion as well.

 

[chrmbly]

Well took it to the mechanic and they claimed the brakes were in better shape than the vast majority of my vintage of 'Hoe - so I guess that's good. Guess it's just me getting used to driving a truck vs a car! The 'meh' the said was something to do with the IPC resetting? It still does it, but it's not a big deal.

 

[Doubeleive]

Well took it to the mechanic and they claimed the brakes were in better shape than the vast majority of my vintage of 'Hoe - so I guess that's good. Guess it's just me getting used to driving a truck vs a car! The 'meh' the said was something to do with the IPC resetting? It still does it, but it's not a big deal.

IPC??? instrument panel cluster?? wth are they talking about?
these trucks should drive just as good if not better than a car, have you checked your wheels hubs for play?, it sounds to me like you have either a funky sensor in the hub or steering column and/or weak steering pump possibly. the way to really get to the bottom of this is to have a scanner hooked up and see if the problem can be recreated with a live data feed.

 

[chrmbly]

Yeah as usual mechanics are not a lot of help for recreating small problems.

I’m going to wirebrush the hubs when my wheels get refinished and see if that helps - love being in the rust belt.

IPC??? instrument panel cluster?? wth are they talking about?
these trucks should drive just as good if not better than a car, have you checked your wheels hubs for play?, it sounds to me like you have either a funky sensor in the hub or steering column and/or weak steering pump possibly. the way to really get to the bottom of this is to have a scanner hooked up and see if the problem can be recreated with a live data feed.

 

[Raxus]

Hey Chris I have the same ride as you, a '05 Tahoe LT Autoride. I noticed on one of your posts that you replaced the rear air ride. How expensive was it and what did you replace it with? Also since you replaced the autoride are you happy with your choice?


Rax

 

[chrmbly]

Hey Chris I have the same ride as you, a '05 Tahoe LT Autoride. I noticed on one of your posts that you replaced the rear air ride. How expensive was it and what did you replace it with? Also since you replaced the autoride are you happy with your choice?


Rax

Hey man.

I had a small shop mechanic (friend of neighbors) replace the rear shocks w/ OEM's, so it's still active. I don't have an issue w/ the bladder or the pump. I think they were $400 a pop. I was looking at Arnott's as well if I was going to go a different route - link. I don't remember the specifics unfortunately since it was all 'back of the paper' type invoice. He did a bunch of work for me - new rear shocks, rotors/pads all around, water pump, rear calipers, couple leaky transmission lines, tune-up and new belts for like $4k. It was a lot, but still cheaper than the stealership, I'd wager. Ended up being more than I thought since he quoted me $2400, but that was just parts. Womp womp.

It looks like Amazon has the same Delco shocks for $251 / ea. link

Chris

 

[chrmbly]

IPC??? instrument panel cluster?? wth are they talking about?
these trucks should drive just as good if not better than a car, have you checked your wheels hubs for play?, it sounds to me like you have either a funky sensor in the hub or steering column and/or weak steering pump possibly. the way to really get to the bottom of this is to have a scanner hooked up and see if the problem can be recreated with a live data feed.

Found a good bit of information here about hydroboost brakes (link) - I did their little test and it looks like as far as the brakes go, mine are behaving normally. I get the pedal push back after pumping the brake with the engine off. To get the hissing sound, I really have to plant the brake pedal to the floor so I assume that's not 'normal driving behavior'.

"The hydro-boost will emit normal hissing noises when above-normal brake pedal efforts are applied (40 lbs. and up). The hiss sounds particularly noticeable with the vehicle motionless and will increase in intensity as pedal pressure increases above 40 lbs. and system operating temperature increases. Loud hissing sounds at or below normal (20 to 25 lbs.) pedal effort warrants investigation.

Clunk, clatter or clicking noises will be heard when the brake pedal is quickly released from hard (50 to 100 lbs.) pedal efforts."​

That pretty much summed up my experience w/ my brakes, so I think I'm good on that one.

CB

 

[Chubbs]

He did a bunch of work for me - new rear shocks, rotors/pads all around, water pump, rear calipers, couple leaky transmission lines, tune-up and new belts for like $4k. It was a lot, but still cheaper than the stealership, I'd wager. Ended up being more than I thought since he quoted me $2400, but that was just parts. Womp womp.

Chris

If he didn't buy his wife a new car, he def paid-off that bass boat which has had him in the hole for a few years.

Somebody has to get the economy stimulated, salute to you. I would have been f*cked had that happened to me lol.

I would have to assume the truck rides really good now. What else does it need at this point?

Oh, is there any way to know if that guy completely flushed the brake fluid? I would not assume that somebody has the integrity to go the extra mile, espc if it's a service that wasn't requested by you or rec'd by him (mech.)

I replaced pads/rotors on all 4-corners but the biggest difference was felt after the orig brake fluid was flushed out of the resv & pipes, then completely refilled with brand new BF. 15-year old, black, water-logged hydroscopic hydraulic fluid is ... Well, almost useless. Easy to check, the hardest part is getting the proper sized clear tubing.

You might give the dude a call/text & ask about it. But you would need a turkey Baster or vac pump to clear the resv, correct sized tubing and 2-qt brand new dot3, all at the very least. I wouldn't necessarily pay that guy to flush the BF if he wouldn't do it in the 1st place while he was replacing everything else @ whopping $4 grand.

This is what I pulled from the reservoir. BF, when fresh, is clear as water. Shocking. I wouldn't say "pointless" but you understand replacing pads & rotors for $$$hundreds, then disregarding $10 in new brake fluid and 45-mins of your time... still it's all hypothetical assuming your mechanic took care of you.

Words of wisdom: don't use the first empty BF can to collect water for cleanup while the 2nd new can is currently in use. Easy to confuse and you will prob end up pouring water into the Master Cyl. I was 2nd-guessing myself until I taste tested each bottle and got it all figured out again

 

[chrmbly]

This is what I pulled from the reservoir. BF, when fresh, is clear as water. Shocking. I wouldn't say "pointless" but you understand replacing pads & rotors for $$$hundreds, then disregarding $10 in new brake fluid and 45-mins of your time... still it's all hypothetical assuming your mechanic took care of you.

Words of wisdom: don't use the first empty BF can to collect water for cleanup while the 2nd new can is currently in use. Easy to confuse and you will prob end up pouring water into the Master Cyl. I was 2nd-guessing myself until I taste tested each bottle and got it all figured out again

Lol - Yeah I bought the truck for 10k and put another 4 into it. 'Doh!

It runs great - no major issues. It looked to be a 'grandad' car that was a 1 owner / 85k mi 2005. Interior was dirty, but after cleaning it up it practically looks brand new - some wear on the driver seat but nothing horrible. Only things were pretty much wear things that had been ignored, likely because i'm guessing it sat for a while (title was signed over to the dealership under power of attorney).

 

[Chubbs]

Congrats on your new purchase. That extra $4 grand is brutal.

My only suggestion is to drain/remove & refill/replace every single fluid and filter on the vehicle. If even just for once, it will probably double the service life of given component. Power steering fluid, coolant, you know. Not 1 of the chemicals has an infinite service interval and once it breaks down you are really asking a lot from very critical systems that you are dependent upon.

There is a schedule for the service and maintenance to keep the truck performing at its best. I believe the factory fill coolant has the longest service interval @ 100k miles before the first replacement, but most others are 1/3 or 1/2 that. Whenever I buy a used vehicle, I just replace everything and start fresh with detailed records.

Chemicals manufactured with today's technology are much, much better than those produced when these trucks were rolled off of the ass' line.

I put the time into selection & then the cash into refurbishing with every intention that I will squeeze and demand every last revolution of every original part. My mothers 2004 z71 Tahoe finally blew the drivetrain with over 300k. She never had anything replaced but the motor oil & the motor was still going strong, 'Check Engine' light & all. I figured if the the other oils were changed 1 or 2 times the truck would still be her 60-mile daily driver.

 

[chrmbly]

Congrats on your new purchase. That extra $4 grand is brutal.

My only suggestion is to drain/remove & refill/replace every single fluid and filter on the vehicle. If even just for once, it will probably double the service life of given component. Power steering fluid, coolant, you know. Not 1 of the chemicals has an infinite service interval and once it breaks down you are really asking a lot from very critical systems that you are dependent upon.

There is a schedule for the service and maintenance to keep the truck performing at its best. I believe the factory fill coolant has the longest service interval @ 100k miles before the first replacement, but most others are 1/3 or 1/2 that. Whenever I buy a used vehicle, I just replace everything and start fresh with detailed records.

Chemicals manufactured with today's technology are much, much better than those produced when these trucks were rolled off of the ass' line.

I put the time into selection & then the cash into refurbishing with every intention that I will squeeze and demand every last revolution of every original part. My mothers 2004 z71 Tahoe finally blew the drivetrain with over 300k. She never had anything replaced but the motor oil & the motor was still going strong, 'Check Engine' light & all. I figured if the the other oils were changed 1 or 2 times the truck would still be her 60-mile daily driver.

Good to know, Chubbs - I'll check the others as well. I did specifically ask to bleed the brakes since it was black - looks clean now, so I'm *assuming* they did it properly - he mentioned bleeding them at each brake. I can do the others on my own. Hell, I probably could have done the others on my own, but it was too much to have to do all at once. I probably could have waited on the tune up and a couple of the other things, but I had the cash set aside for additional work. Tires and brakes were kinda important though - the old ones were starting to dry rot so they were all losing air over time slowly...

I have no doubt this baby will last me for quite a while and have the intention of keeping it for a long time... so your suggestions are a great idea.

Provided I don't have any more serious mechanical issues between now and next year, I'm going to get my rockers replaced as they are the only spot on it showing rust. That was really what made the deal for me is that 99% of trucks this old in my area (Indiana) are all rusted. The underbody of this particular one looked great, because the old fellah had the underbody treated when it was new, so hardly any rust on the underside.

CB