I need help...My last resort with this truck.

[Repaired_Tahoe]

Ok so I own a 07’ Tahoe LS 5.3L V8 FlexFuel that me and my current “ex-wife” had purchased during car our marriage in December of 06...Ok so when we had gotten a divorce I decided to let her keep the truck since I had multiple other cars to drive and since we didn’t end our marriage on a bad note I just decided to give it too her...(Enough about my personal life) So now fast forward to a few years later my she sent me the truck back and said she no longer wanted it becuase she had gotten another vehicle...First thing is I should’ve known that she doesn’t take care of cars since I was married to her but I gave her the Tahoe anyways. So real reason why she didn’t want it is becuase A. She never changed the oil after she had acquired the truck with 77k miles on it and she was just pouring cheap oil into the truck, B. The truck came back to me with 145k miles on it and was in horrible condition the truck looked like it hadn’t been washed in 3 years. So now onto the bad parts so when I got it back the check engine light was on, TPMS light was on and (I)Brake light was on, car wasn’t leaking brake fluid inside the wheels and now the wheels have the “Clear Coat” (or whatever is on these wheels) is completely gone, and on top of that having thick and I MEAN THICK brake dust sitting on top of the wheels didn’t help at all. Also the car was idling super rough and was shooting white smoke everywhere and the engine had a loud knocking sound. So I fixed that problem once (took to mechanic) then same problem happened AGAIN fixed it once again (But for some reason car wasn’t repaired fully and was still ticking and had a horrible engine knock). Ok so fast forward to August of 2017 same thing happened again for the Third time!! But this time it brought some more issues with it for instance: the car engine ticking/knocking has gotten completely worse, power steering pump has failed, car has a awful gasoline smell, check engine light now flashing,Traction’s Control and Stabilitrack Failure, AC/Heat completely stopped working in the front (rear works fine), once the car gets shut off the engine will vibrate super hard and make the entire car shake violently, interior and exterior lights flicker when car is on and running. So since August of 2017 my car was with my local mechanic since the beginning of March of 2018. He was telling me that he was fixing everything that was wrong with the car. So turns on he actually wasn’t fixing my truck and he just had it sitting in his driveway and he was driving it (my car had an extra 4,738 miles on it when I got it back). So eventually I went to where he was and took a tow truck and took my truck to my parents house and I took it upon myself to replace the alternator, Brakes, Rotors and Pads and tires. So fast forward to last week took my car to the dealership (which I should’ve done in the first place). They quoted me $3,800 to fix it. So I called my dad and brother up and we talked about it for a while and we came to the conclusion that the engine just needs to be replaced and it would be way cheaper to have the engine replaced. So I have a few questions about engine replacement since I’ve never had to replace an engine in any of my other cars.

1. My car has the 5.3L V8 FlexFuel Engine from factory. So can I replace it with the 6.2l that some LTZ trucks had?

2. How long does this process usually take?

Those are 2 of the questions I could think of right now.

~ All Responses appreciated

 

[swathdiver]

Yes, you can put in a 6.2 but will have to remove VVT from them and if an L94, the AFM components. Try to get the replacement engine's computer but either way it's going to need a tune to turn off AFM and VVT. 2007-2009 5.3s did not have VVT. The engine of choice will be the 6.2 liter L9H. Some of the parts from your engine can be used when deleting VVT, not a big deal.

If that engine is too difficult to procure, look into the 6.0 L96. You could also rebuild your old motor or get one from the years mentioned above and delete the AFM components for better reliability.

Couple of days if you have never done it before and are doing it at home with hand tools. Give it a week for all the hard stuff and getting the computer aligned to your VIN and the new engine will take the longest usually.

I hate thieves and liars, that mechanic...

 

[Big Mama]

You might also look around for a Tahoe if that style and miles and see what they’re going for.

 

[calif phil]

Sell it as is for $1000 and buy something else. It's not going to stop being a money pit after a new engine. What are you going to do after you get the new engine in and the trans goes out, spend another $2500 on it? plus it's going to remind you of the Ex every time you drive it.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Cut and run, dude. A vehicle that hasn't been cared for isn't young to get better in the long run.

 

[Repaired_Tahoe]

You might also look around for a Tahoe if that style and miles and see what they’re going for.

That’s what I was thinking about doing. But I would love to see if this truck could make it to 200k. Already has 169k.

 

[Repaired_Tahoe]

Cut and run, dude. A vehicle that hasn't been cared for isn't young to get better in the long run.

I would just leave the car as is and just sell it to someone who’s has time to fix

Yes, you can put in a 6.2 but will have to remove VVT from them and if an L94, the AFM components. Try to get the replacement engine's computer but either way it's going to need a tune to turn off AFM and VVT. 2007-2009 5.3s did not have VVT. The engine of choice will be the 6.2 liter L9H. Some of the parts from your engine can be used when deleting VVT, not a big deal.

If that engine is too difficult to procure, look into the 6.0 L96. You could also rebuild your old motor or get one from the years mentioned above and delete the AFM components for better reliability.

Couple of days if you have never done it before and are doing it at home with hand tools. Give it a week for all the hard stuff and getting the computer aligned to your VIN and the new engine will take the longest usually.

I hate thieves and liars, that mechanic...

Think I might just put in another 5.3l but am supposed to get the flex fuel engine since my 5.3l is FlexFuel?

 

[Repaired_Tahoe]

Sell it as is for $1000 and buy something else. It's not going to stop being a money pit after a new engine. What are you going to do after you get the new engine in and the trans goes out, spend another $2500 on it? plus it's going to remind you of the Ex every time you drive it.

The more money it needs I’ll be willing to pay for it. I want to see it hit 200k Miles...Also what are the chances of the Trans going out? And if it does can’t I just rebuild it?

 

[Big Mama]

I don’t blame you. Sounds like the spli was amicable so no problem there. Go to a junk yard or even buy a long block that’s exactly the same as what’s in it now. Then you have less matching up to do. Yes the trans can be rebuilt but it’s still $1500 minimum. When you pull the engine take the trans to a shop you trust. You’ll at least save the labor cost of R&R. You’re only hoping for 31k miles but that’s a good bit of money for that. Make it a project and take pics to help the next guy. Good luck

 

[Repaired_Tahoe]

I don’t blame you. Sounds like the spli was amicable so no problem there. Go to a junk yard or even buy a long block that’s exactly the same as what’s in it now. Then you have less matching up to do. Yes the trans can be rebuilt but it’s still $1500 minimum. When you pull the engine take the trans to a shop you trust. You’ll at least save the labor cost of R&R. You’re only hoping for 31k miles but that’s a good bit of money for that. Make it a project and take pics to help the next guy. Good luck

Thanks!! I actually talked to a local junk yard and they have an 5.3l from an 04’ Salvaged Tahoe....Only problem is I’m pretty sure it’s not a FlexFuel and it only has 295 HP and my 07’ has 320 HP. I don’t want to lose that horsepower.

 

[iamdub]

'04 is incompatible- different reluctor wheel on the crank being the biggest difference and that would require disassembling the bottom end to swap out. May as well rebuild the engine then.

Is the Tahoe currently in that good of shape that all it needs (as best as you can tell at this time) is an engine? Say you did dump all this money into it and drove it to 200K miles... what then? Is it just for the gratification of seeing the odometer on this particular vehicle read 200K, no matter the cost? If it gets a "new" engine and makes it to 200K, will that be all it is- a Tahoe-shaped pile of crap with a fresher engine and 200000 on the odometer?

If it's a sentimental thing, I can understand that. From how you described it so far, it sounds like you've already poured more into it than it's worth and are wanting to pour more into it.

If you're dead-set on an engine, check out car-part.com

 

[Repaired_Tahoe]

'04 is incompatible- different reluctor wheel on the crank being the biggest difference and that would require disassembling the bottom end to swap out. May as well rebuild the engine then.

Is the Tahoe currently in that good of shape that all it needs (as best as you can tell at this time) is an engine? Say you did dump all this money into it and drove it to 200K miles... what then? Is it just for the gratification of seeing the odometer on this particular vehicle read 200K, no matter the cost? If it gets a "new" engine and makes it to 200K, will that be all it is- a Tahoe-shaped pile of crap with a fresher engine and 200000 on the odometer?

If it's a sentimental thing, I can understand that. From how you described it so far, it sounds like you've already poured more into it than it's worth and are wanting to pour more into it.

If you're dead-set on an engine, check out car-part.com

Thanks for the info on the 04’ Engine.
It is pretty sentimental to me because this is the first car I had ever purchased Brand New and it maybe a money pit....But I’m determined to get it to 200k miles and I’ll keep driving until it can’t go anymore..I also want to keep the miles down on my 17’ CLS550 4Matic And my fiancé doesn’t want me driving her 16’ S4 around (since I’m Too “Heavy” on the throttle.)

 

[swathdiver]

At the very least Tyler you can overhaul your existing engine and delete or update the AFM components. The latest AFM parts are more reliable than what was originally in your truck. If you have a garage and are in no rush you could pull the motor and see what it needs to cross the finish line.

 

[Big Mama]

25 hp isn’t much and since you’re having your computer flashed you might see if they can add a safe tune that will get at least that much. Otherwise the tried and true CAI and exhaust will get at least 10. If you have a tune done while you build it see if the tranny is affected by the tune. I’m all for it and rooting you on. It’s too easy to throw things away these days.

 

[iamdub]

Thanks for the info on the 04’ Engine.
It is pretty sentimental to me because this is the first car I had ever purchased Brand New and it maybe a money pit....But I’m determined to get it to 200k miles and I’ll keep driving until it can’t go anymore..I also want to keep the miles down on my 17’ CLS550 4Matic And my fiancé doesn’t want me driving her 16’ S4 around (since I’m Too “Heavy” on the throttle.)

Understood. A lower-mileage pull-out from a salvage yard wouldn't be very expensive as that 5.3 is the standard mill in everything (Tahoe, Silverado, Yukon, Sierra, Suburban...). You can get one from an '07-'09 and it would be plug-and-play as-is, but you're taking a risk on the AFM system. If it were me, I'd get the freshest direct-replacement within my engine budget and have the AFM deleted before swapping it in. Grab a $350 set of long tube headers/Y-pipe to bolt on while you're at it. Have the PCM tuned to disable the AFM and turn off the rear O2 sensors before you park it for the swap so it'd be ready to go when you drop in the new AFM-deleted engine and you'd be ready to fire it up and roll as soon as you complete the swap. I figure a low-mileage 5.3 can be had for around $1,000 and a basic tune to tirn off AFM and rear O2 sensors usually starts around $100-$150. Sometimes you can get a good deal on a complete pull-out that includes the accessories and transmission. Then your whole powertrain would be fresh and sure to go well over 200K miles. Just know that most trucks and SUVs '09 and newer had the 6-speed auto, which will require more work to retrofit into your '07.

 

[Repaired_Tahoe]

At the very least Tyler you can overhaul your existing engine and delete or update the AFM components. The latest AFM parts are more reliable than what was originally in your truck. If you have a garage and are in no rush you could pull the motor and see what it needs to cross the finish line.

I’m not planning on doing “all” the work myself. Planning on taking it too my fathers mechanic who does the maintenance for my entire family. Only car he hasn’t worked on is my CLS and my fiancé’s S4.

 

[Big Mama]

You’re fortunate to have a trusted wrench. Do yourself a big favor and tell him you want to help. You’ll pick up tons of info for the future. When I got my old boat it needed a new impeller so I placed an add for someone to show me how to do it. I’d never owned a boat and it has saved me tons of cash. Anyone that says a 350 is a 350 boat or car is not the person to ask for help. Have fun with it.

 

[08HoeCD]

Sounds like you've pretty much made your mind up that you want to dive into this. But since you asked for responses, here's mine:

You essentially gave the vehicle away years ago and now it's back. You know it's in bad shape but there's no telling exactly how bad until someone digs into it, and it may be in even worse shape than you think. Why take on this nightmare now, on a vehicle that you kissed goodbye years ago? After all the repairs, you're NOT going to make any money off of it or even break even----it's nothing but downside, unless you just want to treat this as a hobby.

Good luck with your decision.

 

[Nashoba]

I have been where you are right now and I have always made the wrong decision. I always tried to repair a totally broken vehicle and ended up losing my shirt every time. Don't let pride and a challenge over rule common sense. Putting 200,000 miles on a vehicle is a worthy goal, but only if you can do it without too much sacrifice of time and money. You have heard of a house becoming a "money pit"? A vehicle can be the same thing. What you have is the equivalent also of the Biblical idea of not putting new wine in an old sack. The sack normally fails. I think you should sell it and save your hard-earned bucks. Just my opinion learned the very hard way.

 

[sfc_jones]

A 5.3, 6.0,6.2 are all LS Motors. They will bolt right up. Find a pullout from another truck,SUV, or a car that has a LS motor and use it. Keep your heads and intake for a easier build. I am going to get a 6.2 from a Camaro standard shift so I don't have to worry about the AFM and modify my wiring harness. I also may try and put the 6l80e tranny with it as well. Just got to find out what I need to get like the driveshaft and tranny cross member from a donor SUV. I want my Tahoe to run 450hp at the wheels on just motor. Eventually a whipple or procharger will be installed for another 220 or so hp. That would put me over the 600 hp at the wheels...all on pump gas.
On edit: If you do a pullout you will have to get it tuned. Using a LQ9 pullout you should be able to use the existing ECM without any problems.