Bounce in Suspension, Maintenance Schedule

[JTsYUKON]

2014 Yukon SLT with the 5.3 and 4H. Have 95,*** on her. She doesn’t seem as smooth as she once did. Bounces when we hit dips. I was thinking it might be time for new struts. What do you suggest? Or if you think it might be something else, what could it be?

Also, the maintenance schedule says replace the TCase fluid at 95,000. We hardly ever use the 4WD. Is this necessary? What fluid do you recommend?

Anything else I might need to refresh at 95,***?

 

[swathdiver]

At 95K or 100K you should be changing all of your drive line fluids, use the factory fluids specified in your owner's manual. Yes, the axles still turn in the front differential even if you do not use it. You should use it or you'll lose it due to lack of exercise, something will get gunked up.

Change your Front and Rear Differentials, Transmission and Transfer Case. Plugs and Wires are due too. How is the coolant? A quick search will provide you with the part numbers and quantities and capacities that I and others have recently posted.

As for the ride, what size wheels and tires and how old are they? Check for blown shocks and struts. Others will chime in soon...

How do you like the Cruise Grade Braking and Powertrain Grade Braking and Hill Start Assist?

 

[JTsYUKON]

At 95K or 100K you should be changing all of your drive line fluids, use the factory fluids specified in your owner's manual. Yes, the axles still turn in the front differential even if you do not use it. You should use it or you'll lose it due to lack of exercise, something will get gunked up.

Change your Front and Rear Differentials, Transmission and Transfer Case. Plugs and Wires are due too. How is the coolant? A quick search will provide you with the part numbers and quantities and capacities that I and others have recently posted.

As for the ride, what size wheels and tires and how old are they? Check for blown shocks and struts. Others will chime in soon...

How do you like the Cruise Grade Braking and Powertrain Grade Braking and Hill Start Assist?

Great info. Thanks.

17” wheels with 265/70r17 tires. Replaced Friday with Nitto Terra Grappler G2, so good to go there.

I wish I knew what the Cruise Grade Braking, Powertrain Grade Braking and Hill start Assist were! Need to research there.

In the meantime I’ll crawl under and check for fluid leaks out our shocks, struts and try to find the fluid capacities and take a look to see if I need any special tools

 

[JTsYUKON]

Ok, got under this beast. Learned how to drain and change my ATF and TCase Fluid. All around about $120 at Amazon Prime. Struts and shocks not leaking. That’s good. Saw this on the drivers side covered in gunk. I suppose dripped down on it. What part is this and what fluid do you think that could be on it? The one on the passenger side is clean.

 

[swathdiver]

Some of the best prices will be found at Amazon. The transmission can be a pain, I took mine to the dealer and let them do the back flush and flush with their machine. Get a subscription to ALLDataDIY and it will have everything you need to know and then some.

Is your power steering fluid low? These are your inner and outer tie rods, and unless I'm mistaken, you have a leak on your rack and pinion. That being said, I believe its better to change the whole thing out rather than take it apart and replace a seal, at least on my Montanas. Let's see what more experienced hands have to say. The tire guys should have noticed this and brought it to your attention. They might have missed out on some work!

When you do the rear differential, drop the spare for more room and to exercise the hoist and allow you to clean that area up too. You can reuse the original gasket without sealant.

 

[JTsYUKON]

Some of the best prices will be found at Amazon. The transmission can be a pain, I took mine to the dealer and let them do the back flush and flush with their machine. Get a subscription to ALLDataDIY and it will have everything you need to know and then some.

Is your power steering fluid low? These are your inner and outer tie rods, and unless I'm mistaken, you have a leak on your rack and pinion. That being said, I believe its better to change the whole thing out rather than take it apart and replace a seal, at least on my Montanas. Let's see what more experienced hands have to say. The tire guys should have noticed this and brought it to your attention. They might have missed out on some work!

When you do the rear differential, drop the spare for more room and to exercise the hoist and allow you to clean that area up too. You can reuse the original gasket without sealant.

About six months ago I was low on power steering fluid and so I filled it to the proper level. I just checked this afternoon and it was only slightly low, maybe 1 to 2 mm. So I added a bit more. I’m thinking I should clean off the tire rod ends and keep an eye on it for short while. Also want to hear what others have to say about this.

Watched a good video on how to change The automatic transmission fluid. Looks a little difficult, but I’m working on my jeep all the time so probably not too bad. Thanks so much for help

 

[swathdiver]

Anytime. Keep an eye on your alignment too especially since you just put on new tires. Watch for inside or outside toe wear on that side.

If salt hasn't corroded the nuts and studs, you more easily can drop your y-pipe and change about 1/2 the fluid.

On a side note. GM introduced the next generation pickups in 2014 and they use a new computer system. I have not seen a 2014 like yours but I believe your truck would still have the previous generation's computer system as it is the previous generation. That means that Tech2 scan tools should work on it, even if you had to call it a 2013. Do you live in Florida by chance? Eventually I'd like to confirm this as I plan to buy a couple more of these trucks over the years. We are told and our software says they only go to 2013.

 

[Doubeleive]

if your able I would change the rack n pinion, these are not generally known to leak that I know of so you could probable save some money and go with a used one.
as far bounce I haven't had any but I have been feeling some funny vibration which could have been my differentials which are both being rebuilt as I write this.

the front strut -shocks run $244 (each) at rock auto, dealer wants $500+ each and $800 for a whole strut, if you opted to get just the shock you would need to still swap it out with a spring compressor or have a shop swap them. I just did both my front ones recently they were not leaking but one had the bottom rubber mount slide off to one side so it was sitting ****-eyed and there is no way to fix or repair that, I wasn't having any drivability issue but it didn't look right and would have eventually started flopping around.
I just had to my rear air shocks tested by the dealer and everything was fine my mileage is about the same as yours 98k

 

[JTsYUKON]

if your able I would change the rack n pinion, these are not generally known to leak that I know of so you could probable save some money and go with a used one.
as far bounce I haven't had any but I have been feeling some funny vibration which could have been my differentials which are both being rebuilt as I write this.

the front strut -shocks run $244 (each) at rock auto, dealer wants $500+ each and $800 for a whole strut, if you opted to get just the shock you would need to still swap it out with a spring compressor or have a shop swap them. I just did both my front ones recently they were not leaking but one had the bottom rubber mount slide off to one side so it was sitting ****-eyed and there is no way to fix or repair that, I wasn't having any drivability issue but it didn't look right and would have eventually started flopping around.
I just had to my rear air shocks tested by the dealer and everything was fine my mileage is about the same as yours 98k

Wow! $800 is expensive. Think I’ll DIY

 

[Doubeleive]

Wow! $800 is expensive. Think I’ll DIY

ya $244 each for the crucial part is way better than $800

 

[JTsYUKON]

Anytime. Keep an eye on your alignment too especially since you just put on new tires. Watch for inside or outside toe wear on that side.

If salt hasn't corroded the nuts and studs, you more easily can drop your y-pipe and change about 1/2 the fluid.

On a side note. GM introduced the next generation pickups in 2014 and they use a new computer system. I have not seen a 2014 like yours but I believe your truck would still have the previous generation's computer system as it is the previous generation. That means that Tech2 scan tools should work on it, even if you had to call it a 2013. Do you live in Florida by chance? Eventually I'd like to confirm this as I plan to buy a couple more of these trucks over the years. We are told and our software says they only go to 2013.

No, TX. How do I know if I’m Tech 2 compatible? Do I just stop by a NAPA and have them run a scan, on the presumption it’s a 2013?

Are you saying drain 1/2 of the power steering fluid. Tx, so no salt, thankfully.

 

[Doubeleive]

No, TX. How do I know if I’m Tech 2 compatible? Do I just stop by a NAPA and have them run a scan, on the presumption it’s a 2013?

Are you saying drain 1/2 of the power steering fluid. Tx, so no salt, thankfully.

he's talking about the trans fluid I believe

 

[swathdiver]

I believe that a Tech2 would work on your truck, have read nothing about that year being switched over to a different computer system. My Tech2 only goes to 2013 but I reckon that if your computer programming is the same as 2013 then it should work. Otherwise, one would need the MDI interface and GDS2 software on a laptop to do advanced diagnostics and programming. Your typical NAPA help wouldn't know this but a tech at the dealership would.

No, when you drop the pan, you can change out about 1/2 the fluid capacity (12.4 Qts) of the transmission, 6 quarts.

Texas huh? I've been trying to get out there for a year to see family and friends but things keep getting in the way. Eventually we'll go to Houston, San Antonio, Dallas and Waco and my favorite town: Fredericksburg! I got rushed out of the Nimitz Museum in 2001 and want to go back and finish the tour without rushing!

 

[JTsYUKON]

I believe that a Tech2 would work on your truck, have read nothing about that year being switched over to a different computer system. My Tech2 only goes to 2013 but I reckon that if your computer programming is the same as 2013 then it should work. Otherwise, one would need the MDI interface and GDS2 software on a laptop to do advanced diagnostics and programming. Your typical NAPA help wouldn't know this but a tech at the dealership would.

No, when you drop the pan, you can change out about 1/2 the fluid capacity (12.4 Qts) of the transmission, 6 quarts.

Texas huh? I've been trying to get out there for a year to see family and friends but things keep getting in the way. Eventually we'll go to Houston, San Antonio, Dallas and Waco and my favorite town: Fredericksburg! I got rushed out of the Nimitz Museum in 2001 and want to go back and finish the tour without rushing!

Well, what do you know. I live in Fredericksburg. We moved here in 2004. The museum was updated around 2009, so it will be different than before. Take your time, do a few hours one day and a few more the next. The tickets are for two days, so you’ll be good to go!

 

[swathdiver]

Well, what do you know. I live in Fredericksburg. We moved here in 2004. The museum was updated around 2009, so it will be different than before. Take your time, do a few hours one day and a few more the next. The tickets are for two days, so you’ll be good to go!

Our original plan was to spend two days there and also like to visit/shop at Texas Jacks. Wouldn't mind buying some land out there to live and hunt on some day.

 

[JTsYUKON]

Our original plan was to spend two days there and also like to visit/shop at Texas Jacks. Wouldn't mind buying some land out there to live and hunt on some day.

Were fortunate to have moved 9 mi out in 2010. Hunting is plentiful, white tail and axis, but most white tail are smaller bc of the high populations. Good meat though

I gathered the fluid values. Does this look right?
Fluids

1.51 Quarts of 80W90 for the front differential

1.6 Quarts of Dex VI for the transfer case

12.4 Quarts of Dex VI for a fluid exchange or 6 Quarts for a drain and fill (old school from the pan)

2.15 Quarts of 75W90 synthetic GM for the rear

 

[swathdiver]

Some factory literature states for the fluid levels to be 1/4" below the fill hole while others say it's ok to fill to the level of the fill hole. Take the rear diff for example, the fluid comes in 1 quart bottles, with new grape scent! The first time around I just used two bottles and called it a day. When doing the rear brakes we saw a leaking axle seal and that time around used 2 bottles and a portion from a third, something like 5 ounces or so that time around. FYI, the GM/AC Delco bottles already have the positraction additive in them and is enough to keep the clutches from chattering if your posi/locker is healthy.