Front End Rebuild w/ Leveling Struts

[AppocAlexx]

07 LS Tahoe 4x4

So I'm at 98k miles and my front end is starting to take a dump on me. The drive side LBJ is making some noise and looks pretty bad. After doing some looking around it looks like the pass side has more movement than it should and the hub may be making some noise. The drive side hub was replaced about 5 months ago. I have a 2" spacer now with stock suspension. So along with new LBJs for both sides, I think the UBJs are the complete control arm and ball joint I will need. Im also going to replace the sway bar link and most likely tie rod ends while I'm down there. I would like to go up on the lift some and don't want to mess with the angles too much but if I HAVE to ill look into getting aftermarket upper control arms to adjust the angle to whats needed for a 3 inch lift up front. I have some spacers for the rear I have yet to install and with how the truck is sitting now I think the ones I have will suffice for now, unless I get finished and its not level then ill have to order a bigger size for the rear and move along. I already have shock extensions for the rear as well so ill install those with this also. Help me get these parts in order so I can get to work. Im doing a lot of searching around and trying to see what options I have. I will be doing new struts up front and have seen leveling struts around but not familiar with them and not sure if they will be w/in budget for me or not. But any options are open at this point.


So here are the options and things I may need. Help me with corrections or added parts that I may need.

Front:
Brakes needs to be done on all four corners.
Possibly passenger side hub assembly will check when torn apart.
Alignment cams, one of mine is broken and I have no clue how. The extra space w/ new ones may be needed for the 3" lift?
Lower balls joints x 2
Upper control arms w/ balls joints x2 (maybe for lifted applications up to 3" lift)?
Outer tie rod ends x 2
Sway bar end links x 2 w/ added length for 3" lift.
OE Spec Struts x 2 (w/ already installed 2" spacer on top and w/ 1" spacer at base of strut)
Leveling strut up to 2" lift w/ added 1" spacer top or bottom which ever is cheaper.

Rear:
Rear shocks w/ already owned shock extensions for 3" lift. New shocks if not too out of budget. Not sure on manufacture yet or if I want HD or OE Spec.
3" spring spacer already owned

Alignment done by shop, already had one done so I know about what that will cost me ($160)

Thanks in advance

- Alex

 

[SilencedChevy]

Sounds good but $160 for an alignment?

 

[01Konvict]

Dude you got a lot of questions...

Sounds like your front end has taken some abuse to need all those parts. I replaced hubs on my old Yukon at 210k miles so would think yours would last close to the same. So you have a 2" front spacer now and want 3", that leads to breaking CVs and tie rods plus UCAs unless lifted ones. Get new LCAs if you want them or need them and a cam bolt for alignment. Shocks would go with 5100s front and rear. Still use front strut spacer instead of perch setting on strut to prevent extra spring preload. Max front lift height is 2.5" so get whatever to accomplish it. Rear needs less than 3" more along 1-2" to be level with front 2.5". Get lifted UCAs for front end to correct angles from 2.5" lift. Find an alignment shop that does it for $40-50 since its a front end only job.

 

[dr58dmtp]

He's from Alaska...that's a good price for his area on alignments...trust me! I have a local shop that beats everyone in Fairbanks and its $105. Heck even Sears charges $120, if ya trust 'em....

AppocAlexx -

I just did a complete front and rear end, autoride Z55 total delete rebuild and Level on my 08 LTZ this weekend and was going to post about it when I get some free time. All in all, job took me about 8 hours in barn by myself...with right tools and some good Mid-night Sun!

In short, Amazon is your friend and what you can not get there to ship to AK go to Summit, but call them to negotiate shipping to USPS vs UPS. I have used them for my last two 6 inch lifts parts on my '08 Silverado and '09 Sierra. If you have an Avanced Auto (carquest) there is a 30 percent discount you can google and use it on their website for in-store pickup, I used them for my hubs and brakes; all premium for less than Amazon and Summit. I installed mostly Moog uppers/lowers, inners/outters, Z71 rear springs, links and frame bushings along with with Bilstein rears, 1.5 rear spacer and Rancho Quicklift fronts with .5 inch spacer (as Rancho says its 2inches for their kit on this model and I wanted 2.5, but more on this later in my thread).

Never had more than a years luck with Bilistien on front running the AK roads, especially the Haul, even though I prefer them over Ranchos. Rancho and Mcgaughys have been my go to for fronts up here now for the last 8 years (been here 11), and I drive average of 40000 miles a year.

Anyhow, here is a pic of some parts ordered and quick shots of the Hoe from today. Still have tires to buy and deciding on removing running boards and putting valance back on after trimming, or just cut the tabs. I will make a post soon with more details when I have more time. Oh, one more note...I will most likely be changing out uppers for ones made for lift like Rough Country, but more on that later in my future thread!

 

[AppocAlexx]

@dr58dmtp thanks for the reply, its even better that you are from here and can understand the frustration with shipping parts up here. Iv only been here for 2 years now and have been going crazy with this kind of stuff. Its a lot of work to get parts around here. Unfortunately its even harder since I'm down in Kodiak. If its can not come by AIR its comes on the SAB (slow-ass-boat) and you will hopefully get it w/in the next 6 months.

Your truck look good BTW I will be shooting for the same look almost to the T. Did you do anything with the upper control arms for correcting the angle of the ball joint? Your set up was one of the exact things I was looking at doing with the front. Any chance on what it set you back for the front parts. I have done some research on the Rancho Quick Lifts and have not heard anything bad other than they are a little rough but its a truck, buy a cadillac if you want something smooth I say. I have also found that rough country and pro comp make lifted struts as well. I will do some calling around to see what the cheapest price will be for them since they are all some what reputable companies.

ill be watching for your thread on your build for the lift. thanks again.

 

[dr58dmtp]

Ha, I Just saw your in Kodiak, missed that earlier, thought I saw Kenai! You are in a pickle for parts and I bet $160 for alignment is the cheap side, average in Fairbanks is 120 w/o lift/level and 140 with! You live in a beautiful area though, I am in Salcha, about 50 miles south of Fairbanks so a tad easier for me. Hell, I may hit you up next time I fly down that way!

Anyhow- I will get you a price list tonight or tomorrow. Assuming you are doing all the work yourself minus alignment correct?

As far as upper control arms, they are currently too close for comfort at the droop stops , but have seen worse. Most likely will be changing to aftermarket style unless the ride settles as Rancho told me it would when I called to ask if their springs settled much...but not counting on it. I want at least 3/4-1 inch clearance and have about a 1/4 currently. CV angles are within specs.(pic below, more pics to follow in the future thread)..but I am not thrilled. I should have noted that this is my first level, I usually lift and diff drop. I may look for a small diff relocate kit to make myself happy on the angles, but not sure yet.

Hopefully have time to do thread this weekend and should have the suspension good and settled at that point as I drive a minimum of 100 miles each day when not out flying in the bush. So far ride is great, but it does feel more like my Silverado, which I expected and do not mind. This is my first SUV, usually in muscle cars and pickups.

Edit: I snapped this pic real quick for you while posting this and realized it is kinda a bad angle, but you get the drift!


Dave

 

[01Konvict]

There y'all go no more front lift over 2.5".... Got it everyone thanks no 3"

 

[dr58dmtp]

@01Konvict-

Little confused by your comment, who are you talking to; me or the OP? You're the guy I actually read comments on the most, so please indulge me. You clearly stated "y'all"...which I get being from the south (ya'll in my parts was singular or plural) and living in your neck of the woods for quite a long time.

Now I have not even started my thread, but in it I was going to mention that my setup gained a bit closer to 3 than the 2.5 I wanted and if it doesn't settle, I am removing it to a 2.5 or lower....but I never stated nor recommended a 3 to the OP.

Dave

 

[01Konvict]

@01Konvict-

Little confused by your comment, who are you talking to; me or the OP? You're the guy I actually read comments on the most, so please indulge me. You clearly stated "y'all"...which I get being from the south (ya'll in my parts was singular or plural) and living in your neck of the woods for quite a long time.

Now I have not even started my thread, but in it I was going to mention that my setup gained a bit closer to 3 than the 2.5 I wanted and if it doesn't settle, I am removing it to a 2.5 or lower....but I never stated nor recommended a 3 to the OP.

Dave

Haha sorry I was just saying that to everyone on this site who asks why I can't go with 3" level in the front. You have to stay under 2.5" as it kills the cv angles and tie rods never mind what it does to the UCAs. 2wd can get away with it as it only kills the tie rods but without UCAs the stock arms sit on droop stops at ride height so not recommended either.

I noticed your UCAs look to be resting if not very super close to the droop stops. I would get some lift UCAs and drop down to 2.5" if you more at 3". The hoe looks good though and like the parts you put on it.

 

[AppocAlexx]

I will be doing all the work myself minus the alignment. If the shop I do my work at had an alignment machine I would for sure take a crack at it but idt they would be able to afford that kind of stuff. We just got a new 4 point lift so thats nice. I work for the cg and we have an auto hobby shop with all tools needed for almost anything. They guy that runs shop does good and tries to order new tools that are needed here and there as long as they don't break the bank for him.

I have read many of posts about not going over 3" but have never really seen what kind of damage it could do and those CV angles are pretty bad. I bet with 4x4 engaged it will make some noise for sure. I wish I had this extra cash to throw a 4" lift on it and do it right. But things just don't fall like that when you want them to.

 

[AppocAlexx]

http://www.bilsteinus.com/products/truck-off-road/bilstein-b8-5100-ride-height-adjustable/

anyone had any luck with these or give any info on the the actual lift they will give?

 

[01Konvict]

Yes many people have used them and like them a lot. Yes they do lift the truck up.

 

[AppocAlexx]

it says 1.75 at the highest setting. Im hoping to go either at that or the notch lower which would be .5 (I'm guessing) until i get them in and read the instructions on them. Then ill add my leveling spacer that i already have now and i should be at the 2.5 I'm wanting. I only hope they don't settle some and put me back to where I was. If so then it is what it is, ill still have around a 2.5ish lift. I think summit is going to be my best bet. Im working on doing pricing for all the other parts tho on amazon and see if i can find me some extra money to save.

 

[AppocAlexx]

anyone know the diameter size of the front and rear sway bar bushings on the 2007 NNBS LS model with 4x4

 

[dr58dmtp]

Haha sorry I was just saying that to everyone on this site who asks why I can't go with 3" level in the front. You have to stay under 2.5" as it kills the cv angles and tie rods never mind what it does to the UCAs. 2wd can get away with it as it only kills the tie rods but without UCAs the stock arms sit on droop stops at ride height so not recommended either.

I noticed your UCAs look to be resting if not very super close to the droop stops. I would get some lift UCAs and drop down to 2.5" if you more at 3". The hoe looks good though and like the parts you put on it.

Whew...Roger and Wilco! I have already decided to order the UCA's and a small diff drop. Honestly, I am at 2.75 (was 2.9 first 200ish miles) in front and I would do UCA's with a 2.0 seeing what I see now. As far as diff drop, can't decide on seeing if someone like Fabtech will separate their relocate from the 4inch or go with small spacers like these...http://supremesuspensions.com/produ...do-gmc-sierra-1500-differential-drop-kit-4wd/.

I agree on no more than 2.5 and always felt that may push stock UCA and diff so this was no surprise to me. With all the driving I do and being 50-50 on/off pavement, angles mean a ton to me! Anyhow, thanks for the clarification. Hope to see your comments when I write my thread, this forum has helped a bunch since my SUV convert started and I feel like I owe a good write up back. There are enough "how-to's" out there, so mine will focus more on thought process, part numbers and tips on install for the non "do it yourselfer's". I have prided myself on not taking a vehicle to a shop in over 30 years or so now (minus tires and alignments) and hope to help those folks wondering if they can do it to save some bucks. Now I have to decide how much gas mileage I wanna have with my tire decision....the 'ol size debate. I subscribe to your advice on "why not stick with a lower weight tire" if E rating is not needed, but I tow a lot and run rough roads so thinking 285's or 295's at this point... found some nice 305's for a good price, but there is the sway bar thing....see I listen! Also, its hard to look at your set up and not want to go with a 6 inch Fabtech (like their products), but I promised myself to stay tame on this one! Catch ya later man!

I will be doing all the work myself minus the alignment. If the shop I do my work at had an alignment machine I would for sure take a crack at it but idt they would be able to afford that kind of stuff. We just got a new 4 point lift so thats nice. I work for the cg and we have an auto hobby shop with all tools needed for almost anything. They guy that runs shop does good and tries to order new tools that are needed here and there as long as they don't break the bank for him.

I have read many of posts about not going over 3" but have never really seen what kind of damage it could do and those CV angles are pretty bad. I bet with 4x4 engaged it will make some noise for sure. I wish I had this extra cash to throw a 4" lift on it and do it right. But things just don't fall like that when you want them to.

Yep, sounds like you will be set to go once you get parts with the access to a shop. I will be one of those guys as well to say...do not go 3 without what Konvict and I discussed above...and even then I would recommend waiting on a true 4 with relocate or more. As you stated, my angles are a little crappy and here in the AK interior I run in Auto for 1-2 months and 4HI for 4-5 months of the year (for the most part).
Anyhoo- I added my costs up for ya and the parts ran me back roughly $1575 including random other parts not listed above. Will have a complete list on my thread with Part #'s or links.

Take care-

Dave

Edit- AppocAlexx: You are in the CG there? You know a Kevin Riley? He is an x Army heli pilot I used to fly with years ago that flies with you guys now, hes been in Kodiak for a year or so now.

 

[AppocAlexx]

@dr58dmtp sorry name doesn't ring a bell I'm at a small unit not really attached to the air station here.

Thanks for the info your giving as well. I really appreciate it.

 

[01Konvict]

@dr58dmtp thanks dude! Just try to help people on here make decisions once and do it right. Tire sizes make decisions hard but keep in mind the tire weights and how much you tow. If I were on a level kit I would stay C or D. Yup 305 on stocks rub sway unless you get 1/4" wheel spacers but then still close to rub and weight. Just FYI Fabtech does sell each let separate so you can order any part through a dealer like summit racing.

 

[AppocAlexx]

Im ordering stuff now and its all a waiting game from here on. Getting all stock specs other than the adjustable bilsteins up front. UCAs, LBJs, Rancho Rear Shocks, new strut mounting plates (my strut mounting bolts were bent for some reason), new alignment pens (one of mine are broken and im sure they could use some extra adjustment anyhow), and sway bar links. Already have strut spacers, rear spring spacers, and rear shock extenders. Once the parts get in ill have to set up a time for the alignment to get done seeing that the shops here usually have a long waiting list and then coordinate my install time with that.

 

[AppocAlexx]

http://www.belltech.com/lowering_and_lifting_struts

stumbled upon these thought I would put them out there. Belltech lift and lower struts.

 

[DrunkElvis]

Is this the same Apoch that ran with Forgotten Soldiers in Planetside?