Wobbly body in turns?

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lightflyer1

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New to me 2007 Tahoe LT 5.3l. When I turn the steering wheel back and forth the body seams to lean more than I expected. I usually ride around in a Beetle diesel so no comparison. I have driven large vehicles before like this but this one seems sort of unsafe if any quick turns were to be made. Seems to ride well over bumps and such. Any thoughts if it is just me or something needs fixing?
 

Doubeleive

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New to me 2007 Tahoe LT 5.3l. When I turn the steering wheel back and forth the body seams to lean more than I expected. I usually ride around in a Beetle diesel so no comparison. I have driven large vehicles before like this but this one seems sort of unsafe if any quick turns were to be made. Seems to ride well over bumps and such. Any thoughts if it is just me or something needs fixing?
Check shocks, struts, sway bars and end links
 

petethepug

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Check for gaps or light shining through the sway bar bushings. Replace with Poly bushes for longevity and comfort.

The other little buggar is the bushings in the power steering rack and mount bolts.

I got one of these but not installed it yet.

Fits GMC Sierra Yukon Cadillac Escalade 2007-14 Chevrolet Silverado Tahoe Steering Rack Bushing Set Polyurethane 19330568

The other two metal sleeved press fit bushings are a nightmare to r&r if they’re toast, but they likely aren’t.


Bigger sway bars for these overgrown full size SUV are a must. I’m asking Santa this year.
 

Marky Dissod

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New to me 2007 Tahoe LT 5.3L.
When I turn the steering wheel back and forth the body seams to lean more than I expected.
I usually ride around in a Beetle diesel so no comparison.
I have driven large vehicles before like this but this one seems sort of unsafe if any quick turns were to be made.
Seems to ride well over bumps and such. Any thoughts if it is just me or something needs fixing?
Elephants, rhinos, hippos, etc, are not famous for their lightning-quick emergency lane change maneuver agility.
That said, GM left LOTS of potential for those who go about not leaving well-enough alone intelligently.
Hellwig bars in your future.
That's where it starts, I bet.
If that doesn't improve things by enough, lower it.
 
OP
OP
L

lightflyer1

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There is no slop in the steering. For all intents and purposes it drives normal. Steering is tight. It's just the sway when turning. If I turn the wheel back and forth it responds but the body seems to sway more than I'm used to. Will get under it and check the sway bars.
 

swathdiver

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There is no slop in the steering. For all intents and purposes it drives normal. Steering is tight. It's just the sway when turning. If I turn the wheel back and forth it responds but the body seems to sway more than I'm used to. Will get under it and check the sway bars.
The alignment, the caster setting, can also contribute to this behavior.

At 16 years old you can guarantee that your front and rear swaybar bushings need replacement and the end links for and aft as well. GM OE is rubber, ACDelco Professional/Gold is blue poly type material, slightly stiffer I reckon.
 

Marky Dissod

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There is no slop in the steering. For all intents and purposes it drives normal. Steering is tight.
Yes; we already assumed this as a given.
If I turn the wheel back and forth it responds but the body seems to sway more than I'm used to.
Will get under it and check the sway bars.
What you're not used to is a vehicle that cannot shake its hips and change direction easily.
Problem is, this is BY DESIGN. It's NOT a flaw, it's a feature.

You did NOT buy a Tahoe Police Pursuit Vehicle (nor an Audi Q7 / Porsche Cayenne / Lambo Urus).
Hellwig bars in your future.
VERY Seriously consider this.
THEN also consider lowering it, unless you need / use all that ground clearance.
 
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iamdub

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There is no slop in the steering. For all intents and purposes it drives normal. Steering is tight. It's just the sway when turning. If I turn the wheel back and forth it responds but the body seems to sway more than I'm used to. Will get under it and check the sway bars.

As was mentioned- check the sway bar bushings. If they're original, the front links can break inside the plastic sleeves and appear "fine". They're super cheap and easy to replace/upgrade. About $15 for the front links, about $7 for the front bushings and $8 for the rear bushings. No idea on cost for the rear links as mine were replaced with totally different kinds for the drop. Regardless, you'd be in it for about $50 and maybe two hours of labor, working casually. You're sure to feel a difference.

The shocks and struts could be worn, allowing the springs to cycle too much. But, start with the cheap and easy sway bar stuff.


If you REALLY wanna feel a difference, upgrade your bars to Hellwig or Nolathane.
 

petethepug

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Verify if the corner bracket supports above the battery are tightened down on each side and / or not missing. There’s also a third bar in the battery side you can see the top of in this pic.

CD6255BC-9806-4EB9-9E83-C5F6AD7D23FA.jpeg
 

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