another ride qaulity question..

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

WHITEOUT

Dont Hate-Appreciate
Joined
May 5, 2009
Posts
934
Reaction score
41
Location
Phoenix
Cool. ya I haven't been on in awhile, and I guess just putting in my .02 from what's going on with my rig and thought I could help. Glad it's all riding right tho.
 

Modded

That Guy
Joined
May 3, 2009
Posts
6,942
Reaction score
107
I have messed with me lowering components alot lately, and have 3/5 drop, spindles and 5" coils, rear trailing arm brackets and sway end links. Now as far as rear trailing arms go, they just position arms at better angle for suspension, not really to move back and forth( unless you were to get adjustable and do top and bottoms and adjust accordingly)
Now panhard bar, for me, is a must now. As I got left and right issues, especially on bumps. Panhard bar will move axle left and right accordingly. My axle personally is shifted over atleast a 1/4 inch and affecting everything, or so I think
I am personally buying adjustable panhard and rear lower trailing arms. This will bring my axle back to center and should make handling better, but more over for me, stop the popping that is happening.

Ghost, if your looking for some lowering parts hit me up.
I have some Belltech spindles, brand new, 5" drop coils
Belltech, DJM shocks 4 used. Also got a set of DJM front lowered A-arms.

Yeah the relocators do move the axle back and center it in the wheel well a bit. Me and another bud with the same drop and same size wheels/tire (26s) noticed his was grinding all over the rear upper control arms mount, while mine weren't because I have the trailing arms.
 

WHITEOUT

Dont Hate-Appreciate
Joined
May 5, 2009
Posts
934
Reaction score
41
Location
Phoenix
Yeah the relocators do move the axle back and center it in the wheel well a bit. Me and another bud with the same drop and same size wheels/tire (26s) noticed his was grinding all over the rear upper control arms mount, while mine weren't because I have the trailing arms.

Well kinda. After talking with people smarter then me, the geometry of it. And I do have lower RCA(rear control arms) relocating brackets. And in theory it is only repositioning the LRCA to a more "optimal" OEM position, ie. back to parallel with ground so not angled up so high. The relocating brackets -lower- cant really move axla back TOO much using only lower because it would tweak axle itself. Understand? Only way to accomplish "fully" repositioning axle back is to get adjustable Upper and Lower rear control arms. IE. Rear lower control arm can only move length wise as much as the upper, otherwise shit will be off.

I myself have learned that MY lower RCA are being "pinched"(hopefully problem) and I have ordered adjustable rear panhard bar and adjustable rear LCA to hopefully fix my "popping" issue in rear. whether or not it fixes it will come to see, but beefing up the rear end can't hurt anything. I will be posting pics and stuff regarding what I will be installing in next week or so.

DISCLAIMER: Now, I am by know means an expert!!! This is only stuff I have learned thru my own dealings and other peoples advice with my lowered Tahoe. Not trying to act like I know all about it, just learning as I go, and trying to help if possible, and recieve help all the same.
 
OP
OP
ghost

ghost

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2010
Posts
378
Reaction score
4
Hey Austin, long time sence ive seen ya on here. Are those front a arms the 3" drop ones? Dk if they even make anything besides that but i gotta ask cuz i dk lol. A little too late on the shocks deal i just ordered new ones from tony as well with a rear hardware kit, hoping that helps my ride tremendously. But i am interested in those front arms because i feel thats where my truck rides the *********. Im only running drop keys right now with nitro drop shocks, keys decranked quite a bit to stay level with the tb coils, and its terrible (even on my factory 16s with 70 series tire) lol. Truck only has 86k miles so i wouldnt think anything would be too worn out yet to be the cause.
 

WHITEOUT

Dont Hate-Appreciate
Joined
May 5, 2009
Posts
934
Reaction score
41
Location
Phoenix
Ya, I haven't been on in awhile.... damn busy life!! DJM drop arms are 3" they don't make another that I am aware of. suspension feels good out back, besides popping noise that "seems" to be coming from trailing arms. My front is ok, but squishing jounce stops and drastically think it's affecting my ride!! No travel up front. IDK what to do about it yet. Spindles or A-arms will be better then keys for sure.
 
OP
OP
ghost

ghost

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2010
Posts
378
Reaction score
4
PM me a price on those arms if ya wanna part with them! i may be interested..
 

fire730

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2010
Posts
979
Reaction score
29
Location
Louisiana
I just recently lowered my XL with keys and 3" DJM coils with NItro 2 all around. I think I need to ditch the keys and get some spindles for the front. The bumpsteer is too much.

The rear was bouncy when I first installed the drop. I have since added the DJM TA relocators and that helped from me having the driveshaft slam into the tranny over hard bumps. I also added the Airlift bags inside the coils. I only have 10psi in them and the ride is not bouncy at all anymore. I just took a 1200 mi trip and with it full of luggage and gas it still rode great in the back. And it rides good unloaded also. HTH
 

J-dub

The TYF Young One
Joined
Aug 16, 2010
Posts
352
Reaction score
1
Location
Baton Rouge, Louisiana
I'm also needing to attend to my drop. Right now I have keys and 5" DJM springs. Honestly the ride isn't that bad, but I think it will be much worse when I get rims put on.

I think the rear hardware kit would be my first step, correct?
 

NORCAL SS

SUV SUSPENSION GURU
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Jun 9, 2009
Posts
8,744
Reaction score
605
I just recently lowered my XL with keys and 3" DJM coils with NItro 2 all around. I think I need to ditch the keys and get some spindles for the front. The bumpsteer is too much.

The rear was bouncy when I first installed the drop. I have since added the DJM TA relocators and that helped from me having the driveshaft slam into the tranny over hard bumps. I also added the Airlift bags inside the coils. I only have 10psi in them and the ride is not bouncy at all anymore. I just took a 1200 mi trip and with it full of luggage and gas it still rode great in the back. And it rides good unloaded also. HTH


did you cut bumpstop brackets?

---------- Post added at 09:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:23 PM ----------

I'm also needing to attend to my drop. Right now I have keys and 5" DJM springs. Honestly the ride isn't that bad, but I think it will be much worse when I get rims put on.

I think the rear hardware kit would be my first step, correct?


did you cut bumpstop brackets?

are you running the regular tahoe djm springs or my djm tb 5.5 springs?

also what shocks are you running?
 

thor1125

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2010
Posts
172
Reaction score
0
Location
orange county
What shocks are best to run with the djm 3/5 kit.... I need new shocks asap this week

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,239
Posts
1,812,633
Members
92,340
Latest member
Dustpan
Top