2011 GMC Yukon SLT Noob here

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AUinCullman

AUinCullman

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There should still be at least an inch of rake with a level unless the suspension is really tired.



A taller sidewall is more preferable for off-roading and a nice ride with the simple suspension. But if you are set on going with a taller tire with the level, then 18s are the way to go. Still offers good sidewall height in most sizes.

Sidewall Heights:

265-70-17 = 7.30 inches
265-65-18 = 6.78
285-70-17 = 7.85
265-70-18 = 7.30
275-70-18 = 7.58

I have a pickup with the second size and it rides almost as nice. Most of the difference is probably in the Rancho shocks.
Thank you for the info! Hope I'm not bothering you. Now I've got something to chew on.
 

iamdub

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Love your build thread! I only had time to go thru the first 5 pages so far since I'm at work. Great back story and very talented. I've always wanted to learn how to weld. And even though I have a 2 yr degree in electronics, Auto electronics have always been very intimidating to me. Thanks for sharing!

Thank ya! I've documented a lot since the first five pages! I try to post and describe pics that would be helpful references. I damned-near have a tutorial on an AFM delete/cam swap starting around May 2020 (Page 57ish, I think).

I'd imagine a two year degree in electronics to be pretty strong when applied to this generation of GM truck. Of course you have the standard analog circuits but they're all controlled by CAN bus. They all still talk over wires, just fewer wires.
 

iamdub

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If it raises the front 2 inches, it doesn't raise the front higher than the back?


Every vehicle is different. The only way to know and decide on what you want is to measure your rig. Judging by the pics in your first post, it's a lot higher in the back. But, you could be on a slope or it's the camera angle.

Have all four tires aired up properly. Park on a level surface and measure each corner. If you can't decide on a lift amount based on the numbers, or just wanna get a visual, put a floor jack under the cross member in the front and raise it in 1" or even 1/2" increments. Step back and have a look. Jack it up another 1/2"-1" and look again. Because of the body lines, you might not like the appearance of what is numerically level (front fender height matching the rear). So, you gotta determine a balance between function and form (clearance and appearance, in this case).

A small lift is cheap, easy and quick. The taller you go, the more that's needed and the more expensive it gets. Also, your suspension type plays a role in the complexity. There will be extra steps required if you have the electronic (variable damping) or Auto-Level Control (air bags on the rear shocks).
 
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AUinCullman

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Every vehicle is different. The only way to know and decide on what you want is to measure your rig. Judging by the pics in your first post, it's a lot higher in the back. But, you could be on a slope or it's the camera angle.

Have all four tires aired up properly. Park on a level surface and measure each corner. If you can't decide on a lift amount based on the numbers, or just wanna get a visual, put a floor jack under the cross member in the front and raise it in 1" or even 1/2" increments. Step back and have a look. Jack it up another 1/2"-1" and look again. Because of the body lines, you might not like the appearance of what is numerically level (front fender height matching the rear). So, you gotta determine a balance between function and form (clearance and appearance, in this case).

A small lift is cheap, easy and quick. The taller you go, the more that's needed and the more expensive it gets. Also, your suspension type plays a role in the complexity. There will be extra steps required if you have the electronic (variable damping) or Auto-Level Control (air bags on the rear shocks).
Thank you so much for the advice. Makes sense. Harbor Freight usually runs a sale on floor jacks every other week so I will grab one. Been wanting to get one anyway.
 

bobsburban

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Evening everyone. New guy here from North Alabama. Just purchased a used Yukon to build out for Camper/Weekend warrior/Dirt Roadster. And also will be my daily since I'm only 5 miles from work. Excited about finding this Forum. Ran across it while searching for potential issues. My main interest right off the bat as far as upgrades would be bigger, slightly wider tires just for a little more clearance. (Please make suggestions) Also want to upgrade bumpers for a more manly look but I dont want to build a tank either. Again, suggestions greatly appreciated as I have been scanning the interwebs and it looks like there are not a lot of options so far. I like the simplicity of the Move bumpers but their website doesn't appear to offer an option for 2011. Anyway, looking forward to the long build process. I would greatly appreciate any and all help I can get thats for sure. She's a little dirty from testing the 4WD.

Howdy AU. I'm just up the road in Chattanooga. Spent four years at Browns Ferry NP in the 80s; I remember a catfish farm & restaurant just outside Cullman where we used to take the GE nuke reps for dinner. They had a killer price for a pound of boiled shrimp as I remember.

Anyway, there are a couple of of options for you, believe it or not. There's a new outfit that I found out about through the Expedition Portal: Baseline Overland (https://baselineoverland.com/) and they have pretty sharp front bumpers for the GMT900s in addition to the best roof rack option I've seen yet. Check them out. Also, Addictive Designs has a pretty cool looking bumper. I've seen it over on 4 Wheel Parts' website.

Next question: is yours a Z71 spec? Air-ride suspension? My 2011 Suburban LTZ had the air-ride stuff that was shot when I bought it so I just replaced all that with Bilstein 5100s all around and Moog 81069 heavy-duty rear springs, which have a couple hundred pounds more spring rate than the stock and/or air-ride springs. I'm guessing they're pretty close to Z71 spec. That combination gives me 1.5 - 2" more ride height by itself and I'm able to run 275-65/18s on Silverado wheels (which have a bit more offset than the 20" wheels that came on the truck) without rubbing. That's 32" tall tires; you might get 33s under there if you tried. I don't have $1200 to find out, so can't tell you. Also, if you're not towing, you can level the truck with those Moog springs by setting the stock front springs on the first perch up from the lowest on the Bilsteins - they're adjustable. I installed mine that way and liked the look but set them back down to help keep it level when towing our camper.

It's not a big deal if you're not towing, but if you plan to, I'd look into installing a Cold Case aluminum radiator and a Tru-Cool or Derale transmission cooler to keep things cool out west when towing. I also installed an ARB onboard air compressor in the spare battery tray behind the driver's side headlights. The boss says that's the best accessory I've ever bought. If you don't get a front bumper immediately, N-Fab makes an auxiliary light-mounting bar that does not do away with the front tow hooks like everyone else's bull bar or front grill.

But before I did anything - I bought a DiabloSport AFM/DOD disabler so I'm running all 8 cylinders all the time. Trying to make a 5.3 with AFM parts and 272,000 miles last as long as possible before replacing it with a Jasper DOD-deleted remanufactured engine.

That's about as far as I've taken mine to date. It's going to get N-Fab nerf steps in a few months as the right side steps are separating and will eventually fall apart. I'm also going to get 4.10s installed to help with towing over the big mountains out west. There's a couple of pix over in this thread: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...ifted-and-leveled.70549/page-101#post-1660690 and there's more info in several of the threads in the 2007-2014 lifted suspension forum.

Hope this helps,

Bob
 
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AUinCullman

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Howdy AU. I'm just up the road in Chattanooga. Spent four years at Browns Ferry NP in the 80s; I remember a catfish farm & restaurant just outside Cullman where we used to take the GE nuke reps for dinner. They had a killer price for a pound of boiled shrimp as I remember.

Anyway, there are a couple of of options for you, believe it or not. There's a new outfit that I found out about through the Expedition Portal: Baseline Overland (https://baselineoverland.com/) and they have pretty sharp front bumpers for the GMT900s in addition to the best roof rack option I've seen yet. Check them out. Also, Addictive Designs has a pretty cool looking bumper. I've seen it over on 4 Wheel Parts' website.

Next question: is yours a Z71 spec? Air-ride suspension? My 2011 Suburban LTZ had the air-ride stuff that was shot when I bought it so I just replaced all that with Bilstein 5100s all around and Moog 81069 heavy-duty rear springs, which have a couple hundred pounds more spring rate than the stock and/or air-ride springs. I'm guessing they're pretty close to Z71 spec. That combination gives me 1.5 - 2" more ride height by itself and I'm able to run 275-65/18s on Silverado wheels (which have a bit more offset than the 20" wheels that came on the truck) without rubbing. That's 32" tall tires; you might get 33s under there if you tried. I don't have $1200 to find out, so can't tell you. Also, if you're not towing, you can level the truck with those Moog springs by setting the stock front springs on the first perch up from the lowest on the Bilsteins - they're adjustable. I installed mine that way and liked the look but set them back down to help keep it level when towing our camper.

It's not a big deal if you're not towing, but if you plan to, I'd look into installing a Cold Case aluminum radiator and a Tru-Cool or Derale transmission cooler to keep things cool out west when towing. I also installed an ARB onboard air compressor in the spare battery tray behind the driver's side headlights. The boss says that's the best accessory I've ever bought. If you don't get a front bumper immediately, N-Fab makes an auxiliary light-mounting bar that does not do away with the front tow hooks like everyone else's bull bar or front grill.

But before I did anything - I bought a DiabloSport AFM/DOD disabler so I'm running all 8 cylinders all the time. Trying to make a 5.3 with AFM partrs and 272,000 miles last as long as possible before replacing it with a Jasper DOD-deleted remanufactured engine.

That's about as far as I've taken mine to date. It's going to get N-Fab nerf steps in a few months as the right side steps are separating and will eventually fall apart. I'm also going to get 4.10s installed to help with towing over the big mountains out west. There's a couple of pix over in this thread: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...ifted-and-leveled.70549/page-101#post-1660690 and there's more info in several of the threads in the 2007-2014 lifted suspension forum.

Hope this helps,

Bob
Shaws Catfish! I live about 5 minutes from there. Unfortunately it is closed now but it was a great place to eat. We love visiting Chattanooga. Our first child was conceived there lol but that a different conversation. We are going to try and do the Christmas train ride this year.
Thanks for all the info! I like your suburban. Perfect lift iMHO
We are thinking of pulling a camper but it will probably be a small one. Im wanting to build my own whenever I get this Yukon built. Probably 14-16' max. I would like to be as minimal as possible but have as much as possible. Actually have spent the last 2 evenings at 2 different shops that I found who do this stuff. I had no idea they existed until I started looking into lifting a vehicle and getting slightly larger tires for slight off roading. After suspension, I am wanting to change front bumper and did actually find that bumper website you shared. I think the guy is a member here. Had not heard of the other one. Im blown away at the lack of aftermarket parts for these things as many that are on the road. Seems like an untapped market.
Anyway, thanks for all the info. If you're ever back down this way let me know!
 

bobsburban

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Shaws Catfish! I live about 5 minutes from there. Unfortunately it is closed now but it was a great place to eat. We love visiting Chattanooga. Our first child was conceived there lol but that a different conversation. We are going to try and do the Christmas train ride this year.
Thanks for all the info! I like your suburban. Perfect lift iMHO
We are thinking of pulling a camper but it will probably be a small one. Im wanting to build my own whenever I get this Yukon built. Probably 14-16' max. I would like to be as minimal as possible but have as much as possible. Actually have spent the last 2 evenings at 2 different shops that I found who do this stuff. I had no idea they existed until I started looking into lifting a vehicle and getting slightly larger tires for slight off roading. After suspension, I am wanting to change front bumper and did actually find that bumper website you shared. I think the guy is a member here. Had not heard of the other one. Im blown away at the lack of aftermarket parts for these things as many that are on the road. Seems like an untapped market.
Anyway, thanks for all the info. If you're ever back down this way let me know!

Thanks, the lift works well and doesn't require any additional kit. I'm mostly running BLM roads out west or NFS roads around Tellico. Burbs are a little too big for hardcore off-roading, especially for those of us who use them as daily drivers so 32" or 33" tires seem to be a good compromise.

I think the lack of aftermarket support may stem from the stigma of GM's switch to coil springs with the GMT900 series. Before that, even the 1500s were considered tougher because of the leaf springs and are therefor worthy of attention. I call ******** but it doesn't make any difference. There's a guy over on the Expedition Portal forums who goes by ImNoSaint. Check out his Tahoe build thread over there and his youtube channel. He's proven otherwise.
 
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AUinCullman

AUinCullman

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Thanks, the lift works well and doesn't require any additional kit. I'm mostly running BLM roads out west or NFS roads around Tellico. Burbs are a little too big for hardcore off-roading, especially for those of us who use them as daily drivers so 32" or 33" tires seem to be a good compromise.

I think the lack of aftermarket support may stem from the stigma of GM's switch to coil springs with the GMT900 series. Before that, even the 1500s were considered tougher because of the leaf springs and are therefor worthy of attention. I call ******** but it doesn't make any difference. There's a guy over on the Expedition Portal forums who goes by ImNoSaint. Check out his Tahoe build thread over there and his youtube channel. He's proven otherwise.
I definitely will! Thanks!
 

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