2011 GMC Yukon SLT Noob here

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AUinCullman

AUinCullman

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You'll probably want skid plates those are available in stock form except the front one but there is a guy in San Diego that makes a custom one "rod louvers"
Nice vehicles Double!! Thanks for that! Yes they are on the list for down the road. I'm not building a real off-roader but I do want something that I could take down a trail and be confident I will get back without breaking something. Skid plates and rock rails will have to be in that build.
 
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AUinCullman

AUinCullman

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Welcome to TYF. I have a buddy a little NW of Cullman, in West Point.

There aren't many options for anything you're wanting. Most would be custom fabrication, if even just chopping up the stock stuff. Just about any tires wider or taller than stock will rub. A small lift will help, but a wider tire (or offset or spaced-out wheels) will rub at least at max turning angle. Every car is different. But, for reference, I had a 2/1 lift with 1.5" spacers on mine. It rubbed, but only with the wheels turned to their max. I just let it eat.

Start a build thread to keep your progress organized!
Love your build thread! I only had time to go thru the first 5 pages so far since I'm at work. Great back story and very talented. I've always wanted to learn how to weld. And even though I have a 2 yr degree in electronics, Auto electronics have always been very intimidating to me. Thanks for sharing!
 
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AUinCullman

AUinCullman

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Welcome from Florida!

You're going to get a ticket from the fashion police for running Chevy wheels on a GMC! LOL

With a level, you can run 285-70-17s. @PG01
Thanks for the welcome mat!
Yeah, thats what it came with LOL but when I nail down a good tire size to go with I am going to change those out as well. When you say I need a level, what exactly does that mean? Sorry if thats a dumb question. If you upgrade your tires, it becomes out of level somehow?
 

swathdiver

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Thanks for the welcome mat!
Yeah, thats what it came with LOL but when I nail down a good tire size to go with I am going to change those out as well. When you say I need a level, what exactly does that mean? Sorry if thats a dumb question. If you upgrade your tires, it becomes out of level somehow?
I figured that. The 285-70-17 works in our cars with a level. A level is a little 1" spacer that goes under the strut assembly to raise the front 2 inches. This gives you the clearance to run those wider and taller tires. With 17 inch wheels we're kinda limited on going with taller tires that are not too wide. 18 and 20 inch wheels gives us more options. However, if you run 20s with a stock type suspension (without air shocks and leveling compressor) then the ride will be worse than it was with the tires with the higher sidewalls.

Without a level and a suspension in good condition, you can run a 265-70-18, a tire one inch taller than stock without issue. 275-70-18 needs a level and maybe some minor trimming depending on the car's condition (saggy springs, worn strut components).
 
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AUinCullman

AUinCullman

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I figured that. The 285-70-17 works in our cars with a level. A level is a little 1" spacer that goes under the strut assembly to raise the front 2 inches. This gives you the clearance to run those wider and taller tires. With 17 inch wheels we're kinda limited on going with taller tires that are not too wide. 18 and 20 inch wheels gives us more options. However, if you run 20s with a stock type suspension (without air shocks and leveling compressor) then the ride will be worse than it was with the tires with the higher sidewalls.

Without a level and a suspension in good condition, you can run a 265-70-18, a tire one inch taller than stock without issue. 275-70-18 needs a level and maybe some minor trimming depending on the car's condition (saggy springs, worn strut components).
If it raises the front 2 inches, it doesn't raise the front higher than the back?
 
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AUinCullman

AUinCullman

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I figured that. The 285-70-17 works in our cars with a level. A level is a little 1" spacer that goes under the strut assembly to raise the front 2 inches. This gives you the clearance to run those wider and taller tires. With 17 inch wheels we're kinda limited on going with taller tires that are not too wide. 18 and 20 inch wheels gives us more options. However, if you run 20s with a stock type suspension (without air shocks and leveling compressor) then the ride will be worse than it was with the tires with the higher sidewalls.

Without a level and a suspension in good condition, you can run a 265-70-18, a tire one inch taller than stock without issue. 275-70-18 needs a level and maybe some minor trimming depending on the car's condition (saggy springs, worn strut components).
Also, what is better? larger rim or more rubber and a smaller rim? I'm sure smaller rim, more rubber helps with the ride but is there an advantage to either one in your opinion?
 

swathdiver

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If it raises the front 2 inches, it doesn't raise the front higher than the back?

There should still be at least an inch of rake with a level unless the suspension is really tired.

Also, what is better? larger rim or more rubber and a smaller rim? I'm sure smaller rim, more rubber helps with the ride but is there an advantage to either one in your opinion?

A taller sidewall is more preferable for off-roading and a nice ride with the simple suspension. But if you are set on going with a taller tire with the level, then 18s are the way to go. Still offers good sidewall height in most sizes.

Sidewall Heights:

265-70-17 = 7.30 inches
265-65-18 = 6.78
285-70-17 = 7.85
265-70-18 = 7.30
275-70-18 = 7.58

I have a pickup with the second size and it rides almost as nice. Most of the difference is probably in the Rancho shocks.
 

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