2008 Yukon Denali, 135k miles, part 2!!

[tgui]

Defeat. I lost. I dont have the time or the skill to get this ****** out. I went through 5 welded bolts and stacked welds with channel locks. I can't get anything to fit to drill out. I'm not pulling the engine so am using the Dorman manifold braces (which are also a ***** to install).

I can't get it. I damage the head each time I try.


Here is the Dorman piece in place. I had to hammer the ground wire connector flat to fit.


More later. Bummed

 

[tgui]

This experience sucks. I've done trans swaps and this is up there.

To get the DRIVERS header in..

- Remove wheel.

- Remove inner fender well cover.

- Remove spark plugs and wires.

- Remove stock manifold and ypipe. See my other posts. I had to cut all mine out.

- If AWD/4WD drop the front driveshaft.

- Remove heat shield on fender.

- Remove rear O2 sensor completely. Be prepared to tune or get a tune.

- Disconnect the steering shaft. Mine was rusted to all hell, removed the under body shield, used a screw driver to wedge the shaft off and hammered off. I couldn't remove it from closer to the firewall. Lock the steering wheel in place.


- Put the header in from the TOP. Shoe horn and wrangle that ***** in place.

- Not done but in place.

 

[randeez]

holy shit man...you gotta get that steering shaft out completely, 12mm on the bottom where it connects to the rack, after you get it out push the upper part of the shaft back in the cab as far as it'll go and driverside goes in from the top, may need to jack up truck a little iirc to allow the collector a little more room before swinging in place.
same headers, same truck -i dont remove any of that but the steering shaft, i can do it with leaving plugs in but ive gotten careless before and broke one.

 

[tgui]

holy shit man...you gotta get that steering shaft out completely, 12mm on the bottom where it connects to the rack, after you get it out push the upper part of the shaft back in the cab as far as it'll go and driverside goes in from the top, may need to jack up truck a little iirc to allow the collector a little more room before swinging in place.
same headers, same truck -i dont remove any of that but the steering shaft, i can do it with leaving plugs in but ive gotten careless before and broke one.

Dude. I have SOOO much rust. I couldn't get the steering shaft out near the top. Seriously rusted in. :-/

You didnt need to loosen the front driveshaft?

 

[tgui]

I got fasteners that don't need to be re-torqued.


TFOT, not THOT, that flange over there. Nice and thicc.

 

[tgui]

Passenger side in but not firmly. This side is a breeze. Go in from under the car.

 

[tgui]

All bolts and dorman piece in place on the passenger side. Not torqued. C'mon, work only leaves so much time to play :-/ I'm liking the stage 8 bolts. Soon I'll put the tabs on that stop them from backing out.

 

[tgui]

Passenger side about done.

- Oil dipstick

- Spark plugs

- O2 Sensor

- Dorman rear bolt fixer thingy

- First pass on torquing bolts

- New plug wires since I was in there, plugs were replaced 15k ago That rear plug is still a pain. Needed to go from under to get it tight.

.... Nothing special


Look at all the room for the O2 sensor!


What rear O2 sensors?! ....

 

[tgui]

I'll do a final post when done but so far the fitment is pretty damn good for cheap headers. Speed Engineering, good game, good game.

 

[tgui]

I had an hour. Passenger side done. Torqued to 18 ftlbs. Locking bits in place if you look closely.



Drivers side getting close.



Drivers O2 fits well. I was concerned since I saw old posts where this was an issue.