1999 4x4 2 Door Tahoe

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bunchz71

bunchz71

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Check the shaft, there will be a wear mark of where it used to sit in the transfer case. I think about one inch sticks out stock. Vibration could be the need for a shim or a tapered block in the rear, could be a U joint getting ready to go. That happens when the angles change drastically and quickly with a lift. A slightly work joint shows up really fast. You can lengthen the stock shaft. A local drive line place can do that and it shouldn't bee too much

I will take a picture later but theres definitely more than one inch sticking out of transfer case. I did buy the two new moog ujoints yesterday just in case. I see what you are saying about when the angles change the ujoint pin bearings are now rubbing on different pins. I am pretty possible they are original because they still have the nylon pins that have to be heated and knocked out. Thanks for the reply. I will give it a shot.
 
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bunchz71

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I will take a picture later but theres definitely more than one inch sticking out of transfer case. I did buy the two new moog ujoints yesterday just in case. I see what you are saying about when the angles change the ujoint pin bearings are now rubbing on different pins. I am pretty possible they are original because they still have the nylon pins that have to be heated and knocked out. Thanks for the reply. I will give it a shot.

Replaced both Ujoints. Same problem. Heres a picture of the driveshaft going into transfer case.

image.jpeg
 
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bunchz71

bunchz71

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I will take a picture later but theres definitely more than one inch sticking out of transfer case. I did buy the two new moog ujoints yesterday just in case. I see what you are saying about when the angles change the ujoint pin bearings are now rubbing on different pins. I am pretty possible they are original because they still have the nylon pins that have to be heated and knocked out. Thanks for the reply. I will give it a shot.


My kit came with a tapered block for the rear. I have it installed on both sides with the short end towards the front. If I am thinking right, i could flip the block around and it would lift the front of the yoke up, in turn pushing more into the transfer case.
 
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bunchz71

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Found this video on Youtube........... I think it is my problem.......

 
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bunchz71

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My kit came with a tapered block for the rear. I have it installed on both sides with the short end towards the front. If I am thinking right, i could flip the block around and it would lift the front of the yoke up, in turn pushing more into the transfer case.

I think flipping them would make my pinion angle worse. It would actually point differential more down than pointing up since its using the bottom of the leaf springs as a base.

Going to try the Axle Wedge Kit and see if it helps
 
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bunchz71

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Bought an angle finder as in the video. Transfer case angle was 83 degrees and diff yoke was 80 degrees. Flipped the tapered black around and now the dif is 90 degrees and the transfer case is 85. Going to try and flip blocks back the way they were and add 2 degree wedge/shim.
 
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bunchz71

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Vibration is definitely coming from the rear driveshaft, not the front end...... taking to drive shaft shop tomorrow to let them fix......
 
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bunchz71

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Just an update. Had my driveshaft lengthened by 2-1/2", tried a 2 degree shim, and the vibration got better, but still noticeable. Tried a 4 degree axle shim and it was way worse. Put the 2 degree back in for now, have 3 degree that will be here monday. If this doesnt work, I am going to put 100# of tannerite in it lol......... jk
 
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bunchz71

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3 degree leaf spring wedge fixed my vibration. FINALLY LOL..... Once I get nerfs, exhaust and window tint, I will post some before and afters....... what a difference..... =-)
 

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