Yukon Denali XL (2011) - Radiator Replacement - Oil Cooler Line Issue

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Tahoescostalot

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Hi All -

Replaced the cracked radiator with a OSC 2370 radiator. Everything went well until I tried to plug in the last 2 lines for the oil cooler.

They would not push in far enough for the retaining clips to latch. If I give the lines a light pull they will come out.

I heard on one youtube video that GMC had 2 different versions of the oil cooler lines (one with a shorter end than the other).

Here is the video (go to the 10:13 mark):

Anyone run into this issue? Is there a different radiator i should have bought?


Separate questions - should I do a flush on the new radiator?


Thanks in advanced
 

Doubeleive

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I have NEVER heard of that, where he got that information is anyone's guess
as far as I know they have all been the same from 00-14 and probably 15-20
if there is any difference it would be the circumference (diameter) and it would not fit period.
you more than likely need to just wiggle it until you get the correct angle and it goes in, maybe wipe a little oil on it for lubrication. I have ran into the same issue before getting them in
 

MWD_CTSV

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Agreed, with a clean fitting and some surface oil, you should be able to insert it with the correct angle. The OSC 2370 is highly rated and supports the 'deeper' fitting. It just means that the alignment needs to be more accurate the further it goes in. The seal is flexible and won't really help with alignment, and will probably give a false sense of alignment. Wiggling it as suggested is probably the fastest method to find the alignment.
 

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I will add I had one oil fitting "leak" after removing and re-installing the radiator and it was just a bad o-ring seal, I bought a replacement fitting and all is well.
if for some reason there was a fitting issue with the "depth" the fittings can be replaced they are just pipe thread fittings on the radiator side (all the same size)
if you needed to replace one or both do not overtighten it's just plastic it will break the pressure isn't much thru the cooler lines, i'm guessing 20 psi or so like the transmission lines
even though internal line pressure is more.
 
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Tahoescostalot

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Thanks for the replies!

Went back and oiled the fitting and also wiggled...then tried to put hose at different angles, no luck though.

I measured the inside of the fitting. Seems to have more than enough length wise.

I think the fitting diameter is the issue on the taper.

Spoke with OSC and they said they have heard of 5 or so other issues with this. Basically I have bad luck. If I don't replace oil cooler lines, then i would likely need to try another brand.

If I do need to use another brand, any recommendations?
 

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Wes
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Thanks for the replies!

Went back and oiled the fitting and also wiggled...then tried to put hose at different angles, no luck though.

I measured the inside of the fitting. Seems to have more than enough length wise.

I think the fitting diameter is the issue on the taper.

Spoke with OSC and they said they have heard of 5 or so other issues with this. Basically I have bad luck. If I don't replace oil cooler lines, then i would likely need to try another brand.

If I do need to use another brand, any recommendations?
Nope just go to the closest autoparts stroe and buy 2 oil line fittings for gm, like I said above they screw on with a pipe fitting taper, use a tool to hold the mount on the plastic firm while you use another tool to loosen the fitting so you don't crack the plastic, do the same when tightening the new fitting.
and just to note you can put the lines on with or without the retention clips in place, however it is easier to do with the clips off
 
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Tahoescostalot

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Here are some pictures of the fitting. In the first one you can see the taper on the fitting is not pushing through:

Pic1.png




Pic2.png


Pic3.png
 
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Tahoescostalot

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Nope just go to the closest autoparts stroe and buy 2 oil line fittings for gm, like I said above they screw on with a pipe fitting taper, use a tool to hold the mount on the plastic firm while you use another tool to loosen the fitting so you don't crack the plastic, do the same when tightening the new fitting.
and just to note you can put the lines on with or without the retention clips in place, however it is easier to do with the clips off
Thanks for the suggestion. I was posting pictures of the issue while you replied, so you might not have seen them.


I'll call the local autoparts store and see if they have the oil fittings. Do you know what torque these should be to (just don't want to break the plastic)?
 

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Thanks for the suggestion. I was posting pictures of the issue while you replied, so you might not have seen them.


I'll call the local autoparts store and see if they have the oil fittings. Do you know what torque these should be to (just don't want to break the plastic)?
I do not know the torque off-hand I wouldn't attempt anything over 20lbs and probably stay under that, snug should be fine
maybe @swathdiver has that info
 

MWD_CTSV

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Your oil lines look a little worn or possibly out of round. If there is a ridge at the edge of that shiny section, it may damage the seals unless you can scotchbrite it smooth.
The fit is pretty tite, but if the pipe is round it should fit. Maybe the OSC fitting is too tight, but that is solvable with the factory fitting as suggested.

Edit: Sorry forgot to zero the calipers, but the delta is accurate. It is .030-.040" clearance.
 

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MWD_CTSV

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And for the taper, I see .6530" ID on the fitting and for the OD on the pipe, it is ~.6485 +/- .0005. So even more clearance for the taper.
 

swathdiver

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I do not know the torque off-hand I wouldn't attempt anything over 20lbs and probably stay under that, snug should be fine
maybe @swathdiver has that info
18 foot pounds!

This is why the manual says to use the Jiffy-Tite tools and not pop the clips out and lose or break them.

Just gotta wiggle them around as you force them in and they ought to snap right into place.
 

MWD_CTSV

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Here are some pictures of the fitting. In the first one you can see the taper on the fitting is not pushing through:
View attachment 391920

It looks to me like the taper high point is fully past the chamfered edge, so it isn't binding on the taper. However, it is possible that the slot cutout for the clip has a large burr which is catching on the taper, but the side shot closeup shows the back edge of the cutout and it looks very clean.

Also, seeing that the fitting has a tamper detection mark, I don't think it is a good idea to remove it. Probably better to measure the pipe and fittings first to check the clearance and clean the pipe to remove any small ridges, before voiding the warranty.
 
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Tahoescostalot

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MWD_CTSV - thanks for posting those pics! Will try and scotchbrite the fitting and see if that helps solve my issue (option 1).

(option 2) I couldn't find the oil cooler fitting for my model. Anyone have a part number i can search for? Also, does this replace the large hex washer on the radiator?

(option 3) If I end up replacing the radiator again, any recommendations for another brand?



swathdiver - thanks for the help!
 
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Tahoescostalot

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On the replacement oil fitting, does the large metal shroud need to be removed first?

Pic4.png



What's currently on radiator:

Pic3.png
 

MWD_CTSV

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On the replacement oil fitting, does the large metal shroud need to be removed first?

View attachment 391944


What's currently on radiator:

View attachment 391945
First I would check that the new fitting fits the oil line.

Second, I am a little concerned that you don't have an OSC radiator. OSC claims to use the same plate cooler as stock, and that cooler and fitting don't look like the pictures from OSC.
 

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