SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
yes. On the back doors I used the surface mount option for the tweeters and mounted them on the grill forward of the speaker so they would not be blocked by the seat cushions.
wiring in a new headunit questions
- Thread starter AlyssaB
- Start date
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AlyssaB
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ohhhh okay.
do you know how much power that factory amp is putting out?
do you know how much power that factory amp is putting out?
00Caddy
Member
I am about to tackle the stereo in my caddy. its basically the same setup as your 4-door, except i have the bose stuff to take out and you have the regular option stuff to take out. The reason it says some 6.5's wont fit from crutchfield is because of the mounting depth. They are using the mounting depth of the speaker if you are to put it in the factory location. You can fit pretty much anything in where the factory speaker was if you just cut the factory grill out of the door and mount the speaker on the outside of the door panel. I have a set of Focal Access 6.5 component sets going into the front doors, Focal Access Components going in the rear doors. My tweeter is going in the same spot as sunlits. Im going to drill out holes in the grill to allow sound to come through the grill.
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AlyssaB
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thanks for clearing that up! I figured it had something to do with the depth. I'm curious what speakers would be good plug n play back there so I could just mount directly to the factory holes. Or at least ones that come with a bracket. I don't mind so much if I can't use the factory grill, but I'll have to track down a drill in a pawn shop somewhere if I need to make new holes.
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
To my knowledge there is no info on that spec and none of us have measure it before.
---------- Post added at 05:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:15 PM ----------
the wiring is speaker level outputs from a radio into the front and roof speakers. the amp has speaker level inputs and taps into the roof speakers for it signal to amplify and send to rear doors. so your rear doors can go out while all the other work if that little amplifier is turned off. A bit of rewiring is needed to power doors directly form head unit.
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AlyssaB
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Okay so I put new speakers in the rear and used the wiring harness from crutchfield and neither speaker works now in the rear doors. The blown speaker was making crackling noises with the new headunit and the other original speaker worked with it so I wired the amp correctly, right? and now I'm getting absolutely nothing from them. Any suggestions where to begin my search for the problem?
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SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
Check your AUX PWR fuse. #13 I think to see if that blew somehow.
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AlyssaB
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That was it!! You're incredibly helpful sunlit!!! Thank you so much.
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---------- Post added at 09:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:35 PM ----------
I plugged in the old speaker and it didn't work. Then I noticed they were all hissing very quietly. Then I got on and saw your reply and fixed it with a quick swap. Good thing they provide extra fuses!
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---------- Post added at 09:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:35 PM ----------
I plugged in the old speaker and it didn't work. Then I noticed they were all hissing very quietly. Then I got on and saw your reply and fixed it with a quick swap. Good thing they provide extra fuses!
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AlyssaB
Member
Okay, after about 30 minutes I noticed the music didn't sound full and faded it to the rear. Sure enough the fuse had blown again. They are 4ohm just like the originals. Where should I start looking now?
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SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
At possibly the amp itself as it sounds like the amplifiers capacitors or IC's are giving out. If you are just going to have front and rears doors only you are just better off wiring the rear door to the head unit. Or you can try sourcing a replacement amp from a junkyard perhaps. The dealer wants $190 for those things. New from dealers is not the best route in this case as many aftermarket options are out there.
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