Which brakes to get ?

[Ghost10]

Ok I think it’s time to get new brakes and I would rather just replace rotors and pads and I want slotted because it looks cool to me

I found these setups
My plan is to buy the parts and then find a brake shop that can do it because I don’t have a lift or jack.

I’d like to spend $500 or less I have no idea what brakes I should get except I drive daily atleast 50mi

And I want them to last and no I don’t have brembo brakes just big ones in the front and little in the back

 

[swathdiver]

That's pretty inexpensive, GM OE is about $350 per axle right now for new pads and rotors. When was the last time you replaced the brake caliper hardware or even the calipers themselves?

California in all of its wisdom has now banned copper from brake pads. The way I figure, if they banned copper, it must be good for braking, so my advice is to get pads with copper in them.

Edit- Adjusted prices per axle which include new spindle nuts and washers and drag reduction clips.

 

[Ghost10]

That's pretty inexpensive, GM OE is about $400 per axle right now for new pads and rotors. When was the last time you replaced the brake caliper hardware or even the calipers themselves?

California in all of its wisdom has now banned copper from brake pads. The way I figure, if they banned copper, it must be good for braking, so my advice is to get pads with copper in them.

Well 2018 never replaced anything
Brakes work don’t squeak and they def stop on a dime but I figure I should get em now.

 

[RST Dana]

I’ve tried powerstop and now just installed R1. Ceramic pads in both cases. Amazon had the best pricing both times.

 

[swathdiver]

Well 2018 never replaced anything
Brakes work don’t squeak and they def stop on a dime but I figure I should get em now.

Ok, none of that is likely needed this go round.

 

[Ghost10]

the rear rotors have lines, I assume that is bad ? Again brakes work fine, ok maybe when I got the truck when it had only 20k on it the brakes were amazing now it takes a little more weight to stop but I’m also at 61k now

Here’s the fronts

And tears with lines

 

[swathdiver]

I don't remember what that meant. Some of mine have lines as well. I'll measure them and see if they can still be turned and if so, will buy new rotors and have the old ones turned for next time. We have three now with the same brakes!

 

[OR VietVet]

I see no problems with the brakes in these pics. The pads look to be still just under 1/2 thickness. Brakes are the most important system on any vehicle, period! Why would you switch from OE brakes that do a great job and last a long time? To look cool, C'MON MAN!!! AYFKM.....

I bet your existing brakes make no noises that worry you.

You know what....I changed my mind....Do whatever you want to look how you want with the brakes that can only be seen when stopped. I'm sorry. I lash out because the body, wheels, tires and lighting can look cool but the brakes need to STOP. That is cool!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Ghost10]

I see no problems with the brakes in these pics. The pads look to be still just under 1/2 thickness. Brakes are the most important system on any vehicle, period! Why would you switch from OE brakes that do a great job and last a long time? To look cool, C'MON MAN!!! AYFKM.....

I bet your existing brakes make no noises that worry you.

You know what....I changed my mind....Do whatever you want to look how you want with the brakes that can only be seen when stopped. I'm sorry. I lash out because the body, wheels, tires and lighting can look cool but the brakes need to STOP. That is cool!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok then I don’t need rotors or brakes.
What strikes me is I drive a 20% grade every day to get o a city and let’s say at 55mph you’ll be done it in 6 minutes when the rest of us hit ridding fast paced drivers go down it at 75-80mph your down it in 2 min or less +/-
Anyways long story short no matter the speed the grade braking system automatically kicks in dropping trans gears to low, however brakes heat up fast man actually 2 presses on the Penske and the third is a rumble and a shake truck still stops but it’s kinda scary

 

[OR VietVet]

Depends on how you ride the brakes when you are going down the grade. You should be letting the engine and transmission do the slowing down and apply the brakes with a good press to slow down and then let up after you get below the speed limit a bit and let it coast again and then you are letting the rotors/pads cool. Rotors can warp a bit when they get heat in them and cause a pulsation from the high and low spots rolling thru the pads as you apply. That comes from sometimes applying the brake pressure too much or riding them constantly low down the grade and not allowing them to back off and cool as I suggested. Those minimal lines you see are nothing. What you don't want to see is deeper grooves. Going faster down the grade just means those drivers apply less brakes than you. You go as fast as you feel comfortable doing. If your engine and transmission do not help you slow down automatically, you gear down and do it manually. Think of this cool look you talk about. Cool be damned when it comes to brake safety. Paint the damn calipers pink for all I care but I care about stopping safely and not the cool factor. Like I said, Brakes are THE most important system on that rig. Be safe and not cool.

 

[THarber]

You can probably have those rotors turned and just upgrade pads and save yourself some $$$$. Look at the different EBC or Powerstop pads.

 

[adriver]

There's a big simple question here. Do you want some basic knowledge you can build on, or do you want an easy answer and just have someone else do it?

If you want to know, and learn for yourself: If your brakes are stopping well, and aren't warped, and you don't need more stopping power, why would you spend the money to change all that to have the exact same thing? I think it should be in your owner's manual (or search here), but you can find the discard thickness of your rotors and pads. BUY A DIAL CALIPER for $10 and you can measure the thickness of both. Based on how long they have lasted you can get an idea of how much longer they will last. If they aren't squealing, within spec, and working well. Then ask yourself why you want to spend money to change parts and fix nothing.

If that downhill is your concern, then
1. Slotted (and/or) drilled rotors have LESS surface area to create friction. They will take a hair more distance to stop, but they reduce excess gasses. They are for track vehicles, and I don't THINK they would help you on the hill. You would need to be on them just a little bit more, and they would not reduce heat enough at slow speeds to be worth it.

2. Make sure your fluid is good. It goes in clear, and takes about two years to go to dark brown/black. When it's dark it should be changed. I would check that first, and if needed change that first. You should at least have a jack for your spare tire. You can buy jack stands, a turkey baster to suck out most of the fluid, then poor in new stuff and bleed the 4 wheels. If you have a second person, then you just need a wrench, or you can bleed it yourself with $10 speed bleeders (4), or a pressure bleeder. YOU CAN BUY ALL THESE TOOLS FOR ABOUT THE SAME PRICE A MECHANIC IS GOING TO CHARGE YOU. This is how you justify buying tools and you save yourself the money on all your future jobs.

3. After you know your fluid is good, and your rotors are within spec, then you might just want a different brake pad type. There are Carbon, ceramic, organic, hybrid, type pads, (and I think a couple more). Each one has a trade off, between brake dust, stopping ability, what temp they work best at, and price. Depending on what you have a harder pad that works better at higher temps, like a ceramic pad might be a better option if that hill is your main concern.

If you're still reading, you should also learn about the 2020 4 piston caliper brake upgrade before you go and buy new rotors. It might be worth it to you to upgrade the front brakes. You can buy these with fluid, and a cheap / used jack and stands, do it yourself for right about $500.

 

[OR VietVet]

Something to remember about rotors is that they start at a specified thickness. Over time, some of that thickness goes away. Brake friction builds heat and heat transfers into the rotors and surrounding parts, another reason to flush brake fluid after a certain amount of time/miles, like @adriver said. The darkness of fluid is moisture that is absorbed over time. That works against internal parts of the brake system and lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid that can cause brake fade, especially going down steep grades.

Anyway, rotors don't start out with gobs of thickness anyway because any where the manufacturer can save weight, the better fuel mileage ratings they get to satisfy Big Brother. That means that when the rotors warp from the heat build up over time and it is time to machine them flat again to get rid of pulsation, well you are making them thinner and more apt to warp quicker again, especially if you are very close to minimum thickness or below that spec. IMO, always replace rotors with new because of that.

As was stated above, care of your brakes will increase brake efficiency and time they perform for you. Brakes are a maintenance item and not a repair item. Like an oil change.

 

[Ivanhoe]

That's pretty inexpensive, GM OE is about $350 per axle right now for new pads and rotors. When was the last time you replaced the brake caliper hardware or even the calipers themselves?

California in all of its wisdom has now banned copper from brake pads. The way I figure, if they banned copper, it must be good for braking, so my advice is to get pads with copper in them.

Edit- Adjusted prices per axle which include new spindle nuts and washers and drag reduction clips.

C$465 for OEM rotors and pads online from Amazon and that's a good price