What is the consensus on replacement engine battery?

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the 18th letter

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We have Batteries Plus + in my area and they will install it for you. You just want to replace it with the correct size and whether if it's a Lead Acid or AMG in the truck and don't vear. You can go higher with cca but not anything else. Batteries can be changed with simple tools just remove the Negative terminal first with the key removed and ten feet away from the truck. I have used just about every battery you can think of threw out my 35 plus years of being a mechanic and like another reviewer said there are only three manufacturers of batteries. For those other people that say an idiot can install a battery are people that haven't dealt with the public that can F up a wet dream. I have used AcDelco. Interstate, Everstart, Etc...... and the list goes on so no favorites for me. And if the battery post are dirty lose or not fully making contact with the post can also cause electrical nightmares. Ask me how I know! I've seen it all! Walmart charges a core fee and they don't take your old battery so now your stuck with the core but my local transfer station takes them so do your homework, and good luck if it fails trying to get it replaced. I don't let anyone touch my vehicles unless I need tires, alignment or a scan tool to reflash a computer.
My Walmart accepts the core and gives the refund. They’re the only brand I’ve used for the past 10 years with no complaints so far.
 

ReaperHWK

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I hate even stepping foot in a Walmart or hell even drive in the parking lot; seems like only people who live in luxury acres shop there.

I’ll pay the extra to not go there lol.
 

homesick

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I'd rather have a battery that will do it's job.

Yeah, my bad. Helping a battery remain reliable for a longer time is an awful idea. Should I stop checking air in tires too?

Are you aware that these "float" [maintain optimal charge after it's reached]?

joe
 

clogan2

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Just for reference, I recently replaced the battery in my '16 Tahoe with a new AGM from O'Reilly's. They would have installed it free, but the Tahoe was dead in my garage. I wrench a good bit, so I didn't mind doing it myself. Anyhow, with tax, the battery was $280 or so, and took maybe 20 minutes to R&R. It's a heavy battery, and has to be turned on its end, and side, in order to "roll" it out of, and back into, the battery tray. There are 3 bolts and 2 struts to be removed, and then one more hold-down bolt holding the base of the battery. I have all sorts of sockets and extensions, so it was no trouble for me. But I would not recommend it as a DIY chore for anyone who does not have proper tools, or who is not physically able to wrestle with a 40 lb battery into its proper place. The old battery was also from O'Reilly's. It had a 3-year warranty, and it lasted 3 years.
 

GMCChevy

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Yeah, my bad. Helping a battery remain reliable for a longer time is an awful idea. Should I stop checking air in tires too?

Are you aware that these "float" [maintain optimal charge after it's reached]?

joe

Yeah, my bad. Helping a battery remain reliable for a longer time is an awful idea. Should I stop checking air in tires too?

Are you aware that these "float" [maintain optimal charge after it's reached]?

joe

Checking tire pressure is part of normal maintenance. Having to use a battery charger or tender to make a battery last in a vehicle that gets driven regularely isn't. If it's only driven occasionally then yeah charging them once in a while is a good idea.
 

homesick

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Checking tire pressure is part of normal maintenance. Having to use a battery charger or tender to make a battery last in a vehicle that gets driven regularely isn't. If it's only driven occasionally then yeah charging them once in a while is a good idea.

Man, that's some poor reasoning.

Using Battery Tenders and air gauges are both helpful. Whether they fit your definition of 'normal maintenance' or not is irrelevant.

joe
 

Stbentoak

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Just for reference, I recently replaced the battery in my '16 Tahoe with a new AGM from O'Reilly's. They would have installed it free, but the Tahoe was dead in my garage. I wrench a good bit, so I didn't mind doing it myself. Anyhow, with tax, the battery was $280 or so, and took maybe 20 minutes to R&R. It's a heavy battery, and has to be turned on its end, and side, in order to "roll" it out of, and back into, the battery tray. There are 3 bolts and 2 struts to be removed, and then one more hold-down bolt holding the base of the battery. I have all sorts of sockets and extensions, so it was no trouble for me. But I would not recommend it as a DIY chore for anyone who does not have proper tools, or who is not physically able to wrestle with a 40 lb battery into its proper place. The old battery was also from O'Reilly's. It had a 3-year warranty, and it lasted 3 years.
This fits the category of..... Can I do it? Well, yes. Do I want to do it? Well, no. Especially if someone else can do it and it comes with the price of the battery..
Changing a battery isn't like changing a cabin air filter.....
 

GMCChevy

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Man, that's some poor reasoning.

Using Battery Tenders and air gauges are both helpful. Whether they fit your definition of 'normal maintenance' or not is irrelevant.

joe

Oh boy I'd just love to hear what your definition of 'normal maintenance' is when you think having to regularely charge a battery on your own is in the same lines as checking air in tires. Sounds like you've been running around for years with dud batteries or a bad charging system and don't even realize it anymore.
 

vcode

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This fits the category of..... Can I do it? Well, yes. Do I want to do it? Well, no. Especially if someone else can do it and it comes with the price of the battery..
Changing a battery isn't like changing a cabin air filter.....
It was a 5 minute job on my 2010. Not so on my 2019. But replacing headlight bulbs on the 2010 was a nightmare.
 

vcode

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Oh boy I'd just love to hear what your definition of 'normal maintenance' is when you think having to regularely charge a battery on your own is in the same lines as checking air in tires. Sounds like you've been running around for years with dud batteries or a bad charging system and don't even realize it anymore.
Yeah, can't say I know anyone who trickle charges a vehicle that's not in storage.
 

ReaperHWK

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This fits the category of..... Can I do it? Well, yes. Do I want to do it? Well, no. Especially if someone else can do it and it comes with the price of the battery..
Changing a battery isn't like changing a cabin air filter.....
What if this someone else happens to scratch your fender or do something else stupid you wouldn’t do? Sorry I don’t trust these ass clowns.

I also replaced the battery in my 2015 and it was no problem. I slept at a holiday in express level job.
 

homesick

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Oh boy I'd just love to hear what your definition of 'normal maintenance' is when you think having to regularely charge a battery on your own is in the same lines as checking air in tires. Sounds like you've been running around for years with dud batteries or a bad charging system and don't even realize it anymore.

LOL, you think knocking down straw men that you yourself set up weakens my case?

joe
 

kaiserwillie

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Yeah, can't say I know anyone who trickle charges a vehicle that's not in storage.
With all the computers in our trucks a full charge every once in a awhile can't hurt. I put my NOCO 10 charger on mine and fully charge it at least 2 twice a year and when I need a new battery I top it off before install.
 

Stbentoak

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Battery demands are much different today than they were 5, 10, 15 years ago. To many things that keep running after you shut the truck down. Too many things that need more power while running. Over the air downloads. You name it. So, putting them on a quality trickle charger like a Noco or a CTEK are just logical time to time..... that is all.
 

homesick

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Just for clarity's sake- my understanding has always been that there's a difference between a trickle charger and a Battery Tender...

Trickle chargers are 'dumb'. They don't monitor the battery or self-adjust. They can damage a battery this way.

Battery Tenders [I'm using the brand name here. I don't know a generic name for this.] 'float' when they achieve correct voltage in the battery. This requires the monitoring and self-adjusting.

The difference is important to those of us with motorcycles and jet skis and such 'seasonal' machines.

(For the geniuses in the crowd ->) I don't drive a lot these days, so my truck may sit a week or two between uses. As mentioned before, there are constant electrical drains on current [get it? I just kill me] vehicles.

I ran a cord from the battery to hanging in front of the grill. It takes a whole second or two to connect or disconnect the tender.

61pO75z6AGL._SL1500_.jpg
 
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Stbentoak

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Except ones from NoCo and CTEK are far more advanced than the on and off "battery tenders"..... Not to mention the latest ones can do both Lithium and AGM batteries. Tenders cannot.
 

homesick

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(This was part of my original post. IDK what happened to it...

I specified 'Battery Tender' as a brand, not as a type.)


from Perplexity...


is 'Battery Tender' brand good for lead, glass, and lithium car batteries?​

Yes, Battery Tender is generally a good brand, and many of their units are designed to work with both lead‑acid (flooded, AGM, gel) and LiFePO4 lithium car batteries—as long as you buy the right model and select the correct mode.

For lead‑acid (flooded/AGM/gel)​

  • Popular units like the Battery Tender Junior 800 are specifically rated for 12‑volt lead‑acid batteries (AGM, flooded, gel) and work very well as maintainers.
  • Reviews from automotive outlets highlight their reliability, build quality, and “plug‑in and forget” simplicity for long‑term maintenance.

For lithium (LiFePO4) car batteries​

  • Some newer Battery Tender models are explicitly “Lead Acid & Lithium selectable” and have a dedicated lithium (LiFePO4) setting; these are appropriate for 12‑volt LiFePO4 batteries when used in lithium mode.

joe
 
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