what are you black truck owners using for swirl marks?

[1974chevyglasshouse]

It's there some thing you guys use by hand out is everyone using a buffer?

 

[Goodinblack]

Lots of good polishes out there.

You need a DA buffer though

 

[1974chevyglasshouse]

Has anyone used any hand polishes that work?

 

[soulsea]

I heard compounding is a solution, but I dunno enough about it to know for sure.

 

[08grey]

A good wax will hide some swirl marks but not heavy ones. And in the right light at the right angle they will always be there unless you use a machine.

 

[josueh95]

first clay bar your truck to remove those little bits and bumps stuck to your paint...if you leave those there what you technically do when you wax, buff or anything is spreading those across the paint. thus, creating more swirl marks, after the clay bar, use some rubing compound. best results is with a DA Buffer or anything electrical is better than by hand. after that use polishing compound and protect it all with a final coat of wax by hand

 

[Goodinblack]

What level of perfect are you trying to attain?

You can never have a great finish done by hand

IMO

You need a machine.

A wax that fills in stuff will look great till after the first hard rain

 

[1974chevyglasshouse]

Ok thanks I'll have it polished .it looks clean but sometimes when the sun hits it u see swirls
Thanks guys

 

[DirtyBlackHoe]

where are you located tony?

 

[1974chevyglasshouse]

Southern california

---------- Post added at 02:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------

I kno a couple painters that could do it with the super fine compound 3m made for darker vehicles for swirls but I was looking for a quick method

 

[osidesurfer365]

Where in Southern California? I live in the northern part of SD and know a amazing place I go to 2 times a year

 

[1974chevyglasshouse]

Palm springs

 

[Snacky]

Like others said, lots of good products out there but you probably need a DA polisher. Strip it, clay bar it, Use a fine cut compound (DA), then polish/swirl remover (DA), then a synthetic sealant, 2 coats 12 hours apart (hand), top it off with a layer of carnuba (hand) to really make it pop. Use foam pads on the DA and for the hand waxes. Use quality microfiber rags and inspect them before they touch our ride. This will be a 2 day project and would be a good time to call in a favor to a friend for some help. also make sure you're using the right materials and methods to wash or they'll just come right back! A good slick ph balanced soap, no bristle brush! Use a good soft wool or microfiber mitt. get a grit guard. No drive thru washes, if you must, do touchless only! No shammies, use a good soft waffle drying towel that you use for nothing else and always inspect it to make sure there's no bugers clinging on to it before you touch it to you're ride.

 

[MarkD51]

For what someone else might charge you for a full detail, this cost could be put toward a nice DA Polishing Machine. The two most common would be either the Porter Cable 7424XP, (which is what I have) or the Griots Garage GG6.

Pair one of these with a Lake County 5" Backing Plate, a few of each Lake County 5.5" Flat Pads in Orange and White, you're pretty much basically set with the tools.

They are simple to use, relatively safe, meaning you won't burn your paint, or create Hollograms (Buffer Trails)

Many "common" regular run of the mill detail shops rely on tools such as Rotary Polishers, and while in the right hands they can do better correction, and faster correction, remove heavy damage, they can also remove way too much paint, cause Hollograms like crazy, burn paint.

Now yes, there are good detailers all over the country, but just as many bad ones as well. Most car dealers are not exactly the place you want to have your vehicle deailed either.

As most experienced detailers will tell you, there is no way to say in any particular instance what will work best as a polishing product, and there are hundreds out there of various agressivenesses. A general rule of thumb is to use the least aggressive products, techniques, and tools and pads to get the job done.

For the average vehicle owner who wishes to maintain their own vehicles, the DA Polisher is usually ideal and easy enough to use where you will not get into trouble.

Yes, hand polishing is sometimes the only way to get into tight areas, such as around emblems, around door handles, mirrors, bumpers, etc, but hand polishing can be pretty much ineffective, very slow process on large panels, and one will not ever produce the same results that a DA Machine can.

Again, and as for what polishes, and products to use, always use the least aggressive. Many folk's vehicles have scratches so deep that nothing will remove them.

A very high quality, gentle, and ultra fine finishing polish that is usually very easily gotten, produces superb final results, and can be used via hand, DA, or Rotary would be a product such as Meguiars Mirror Glaze 205 Ultra Finishing Polish. This product should be in all detailer's arsenals, it is that good, and it produces beautiful final results. It is easy to work with, even by hand.

This product is one of many available that is perfect for removing light swirls-fine scratches, haze-clouding, minor oxidation, and will produce a very high super glossy luster to paint, whether single stage, or 2-stage base coat/clear coat paints.

Black is of course the hardest of all to maintain. The better you then refine your washing techniques, the less swirls you will instill after paint correction.

The general rule of thumb is wash, clay-decontaminate, polish, seal/wax.

 

[Surf City Garage]

Surf City Garage will be announcing their new Machine Polish and Sealant line very soon. I know for a fact that these new juices will absolutely make your paint, any color, change the shine-gloss continuum by a good margin! STAY TUNED ANNOUNCING THIS VERY SOON!

 

[Surf City Garage]

To follow up with my last post, they are finally here!

NEW Polishes, Compounds, Sealants and LABOR DAY SALE!

 

[Goodinblack]

Like others said, lots of good products out there but you probably need a DA polisher. Strip it, clay bar it, Use a fine cut compound (DA), then polish/swirl remover (DA), then a synthetic sealant, 2 coats 12 hours apart (hand), top it off with a layer of carnuba (hand) to really make it pop. Use foam pads on the DA and for the hand waxes. Use quality microfiber rags and inspect them before they touch our ride. This will be a 2 day project and would be a good time to call in a favor to a friend for some help. also make sure you're using the right materials and methods to wash or they'll just come right back! A good slick ph balanced soap, no bristle brush! Use a good soft wool or microfiber mitt. get a grit guard. No drive thru washes, if you must, do touchless only! No shammies, use a good soft waffle drying towel that you use for nothing else and always inspect it to make sure there's no bugers clinging on to it before you touch it to you're ride.

Wheel wells are clean.

Good man

 

[Snacky]

Wheel wells are clean.

Good man

Fender brush hits them with every weekly bath