Maybe it is the Nitto's. At 90 it shakes the entire dash. I've had three sets of Nitto's on different vehicles and they have been good to me thus far. When I was putting the rings on I noticed one had 9oz of weight , Discount said that's not abnormal for a 265/55/20 tire. If I had seen them balancing when new I sure would not have bought it ! Going to spend the $ on a road force balance and see what happens. Have the warranty on the tires so maybe the one will show bad. Wish I or a shop could narrow it down because I'm getting new car fever but have car payment fear !! Pretty competent mechanically but hate when I can't figure it out and then have a shop not able to as well , all the expensive try's at it have been shop finds so far.
Vibration at speed
- Thread starter scagle1
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
EastTXYukon
Full Access Member
I hear you. The only reason I've considered getting rid of my Yukon is because of the way it vibrates on the highway. After any longer trip (hour or more) I am ready to be done with it. So I am anxious to see if you figure anything out.
Same here. I love my Chevy SUV base , but in the last 10 years have had a a 99 4x4 burb , 99 tahoe , 02 and 03 z71 tahoe and all have been front end nightmares. It's a slight vibration at normal speed and when i was 20 y/o i wouldnt have thought twice about it , at 40 y/o it feels ghetto.
The 99 tahoe was our fault , ex misses took it thru a concrete l_l shaped drainage shearing all four rims from the center lugs , needless to say it never quite drove the same and ate front ends afterwards.
God - took rear driveshaft out and had rebalanced and joints were fine. Front shaft freespins if not locked , does it turn enough running down the road to warrant pulling to check and balance ?
z0lt3c
Full Access Member
If you have eliminated the wheels I would suspect the ball joints. As stated above, they can go bad and not be identifiable until removed.
I keep coming back to that one , that sure is a lot of DIY work in hopes that's what it is , hence the reason i don't comment on it. I've looked over and over at them as well as two shops, even found a video saying to jack it up from right next to the tire as jacking up from the center off the LCA will cause the load on the torsion bars to not show the wobble in the joint ...... hmmmmmm , maybe its time to spend a day tearing into them.
If the wheels spin straight then most likely to look into are the u joints and the ball joints. Mine did not vibrate with the 20's on it. When I went to the 22's it started. The extra weight makes a difference. Believe me I feel your pain. I changed allot before I found it was a ball joint.
---------- Post added at 02:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:34 PM ----------
Get them road force balanced with the hunter machine. You can call hunter and ask them who has one in your area. Firestone did mine.
---------- Post added at 02:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:34 PM ----------
Get them road force balanced with the hunter machine. You can call hunter and ask them who has one in your area. Firestone did mine.
Had the roadforce balance done today. Two of the four were not correctable , they could not tell me if it was the wheel or the tire. Rotated tire to match the wheel and still the machine would not give a green light.
Called Discount and they said to bring it in and let them look at it. Dont know if that will get me anywhere or just completely ruin the balance that was just put on them.
On the drive home it was 75% better than it was before. I will be looking for steelies in a 17" or 18" to get me back into a decent amount of sidewall. There was a huge difference in ride quality loss from the factory wheels to the 20's so i am going to have to choose function over form in this instance.
I appreciate all the help and am definitely relieved to hear it's not the front end / drive train causing the problem.
On another note the odometer rolled 156k today and when they were done with the car they complimented it on the overall cleanliness of it , especially the inside. It hauls 4 kids , 2 dogs , and the wife frequents oilfield lease roads in it weekly. It was a nice pat on the back , even be not quite the fix i was hoping for.
Called Discount and they said to bring it in and let them look at it. Dont know if that will get me anywhere or just completely ruin the balance that was just put on them.
On the drive home it was 75% better than it was before. I will be looking for steelies in a 17" or 18" to get me back into a decent amount of sidewall. There was a huge difference in ride quality loss from the factory wheels to the 20's so i am going to have to choose function over form in this instance.
I appreciate all the help and am definitely relieved to hear it's not the front end / drive train causing the problem.
On another note the odometer rolled 156k today and when they were done with the car they complimented it on the overall cleanliness of it , especially the inside. It hauls 4 kids , 2 dogs , and the wife frequents oilfield lease roads in it weekly. It was a nice pat on the back , even be not quite the fix i was hoping for.
EastTXYukon
Full Access Member
How much did the roadforce balance cost you, and do you think it is the wheels or tires on the 2 that wouldn't "green light"?
$100 bill , and about 3 hours of their time. Small price after doing pitman arm , idler arm , steering box , driveshaft , multiple regular balances.
I don't know which it is , if you stand at the side and watch them on the machine you can sort of see the lip of the wheel seem to differentiate in its roundness. I guess I could have asked them to break the tires off the rim and do just the rim but I just wanted to know if wheels / tires or car itself. Like I said , I have not been real thrilled with the diminishment in ride quality since going from 17" to 20" wheels so this gives me the reason I've been looking for to change direction on it. We were planning on a lift and 35's when due for tires again so.... To do the lift or just due the pursuit look with black steelies.....
I have no idea why they charged you so much or took so long. I think you got a tech with minimal experience. Any shop out here charging that much I would have expected them to pull the tire and switch them. They have a plastic tool they hook to the side to tell if the rim is out of round(bent). Hope you get a better shot at it at discount tire.
