U-Joint Recommendation

[opfor2]

I would like to replace the front and rear driveshaft U-joints on my 2011 4x4. I'm doing this purely on a precautionary basis. I use my Tahoe as a daily driver with some light to moderate off roading, so I would like to install "Heavy Duty" joints and am looking at what everyone else is installing.

 

[Fless]

Let's ask @swathdiver, provided he's out from under anesthesia by now...

 

[donjetman]

Spicer brand

 

[OR VietVet]

Genuine GM, ACD or Spicer

 

[Joseph Garcia]

And, for my 2 cents worth, don't go with lubricated U-joints with Zerk fittings. The requirement to drill holes for the grease to pass through makes these U-joints weaker than solid ones.

 

[swathdiver]

I would like to replace the front and rear driveshaft U-joints on my 2011 4x4. I'm doing this purely on a precautionary basis. I use my Tahoe as a daily driver with some light to moderate off roading, so I would like to install "Heavy Duty" joints and am looking at what everyone else is installing.

In my opinion, the factory universal joints are tops. They are solid and very long-lasting. I bought new AAM (the OE supplier for our differentials and driveshafts) u-joints and still haven't needed to replace them on any of our three trucks. The '09 is approaching 220K. Even the lifted Sierra with the 6.2 still has tight joints.

Here are my notes:

As always, trust but verify!

 

[Big Mama]

I’m with @swathdiver I think we’ve all wanted upgraded or beefier parts for whatever and forgot the factory parts were made a certain way for a reason and that they’ve lasted 10-15 years.

 

[OR VietVet]

I’m with @swathdiver I think we’ve all wanted upgraded or beefier parts for whatever and forgot the factory parts were made a certain way for a reason and that they’ve lasted 10-15 years.

Exactly why, in my Build Thread, you see 90% genuine GM parts.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I’m with @swathdiver I think we’ve all wanted upgraded or beefier parts for whatever and forgot the factory parts were made a certain way for a reason and that they’ve lasted 10-15 years.

I'd bet money mine in my 81 c20 are factory originals.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

In my opinion, the factory universal joints are tops. They are solid and very long-lasting. I bought new AAM (the OE supplier for our differentials and driveshafts) u-joints and still haven't needed to replace them on any of our three trucks. The '09 is approaching 220K. Even the lifted Sierra with the 6.2 still has tight joints.

Here are my notes:

View attachment 470878

As always, trust but verify!

I used Spicer universals, when I changed out mine (probably didn't need to, but I was replacing the slip yoke with a GM nickel-plated one, at the time).

 

[Big Mama]

Joe, did you do that because of the extra power from your supercharger?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Joe, did you do that because of the extra power from your supercharger?

No, this was a few years back, and I was chasing a clunk, which I thought was my slip yoke getting worn out. I worked with Fort Wayne Clutch and Driveline, who supplied the slip yoke, and they recommended the Spicer U-joints.

 

[Big Mama]

That’s right, I remember your “clunk that wasnt a clunk” post. It’s a good one.

 

[alvocado]

I just installed Spicer Life series a couple of weeks ago preventatively. I went with the non-greasable similar to the factory ujoints. I will say, my factory ujoints still looked great at 233k miles and the needle bearings were not dry or binding. Based on that, I elected not to touch the front shaft which doesn't get much use in 4WD.

 

[OR VietVet]

I just installed Spicer Life series a couple of weeks ago preventatively. I went with the non-greasable similar to the factory ujoints. I will say, my factory ujoints still looked great at 233k miles and the needle bearings were not dry or binding. Based on that, I elected not to touch the front shaft which doesn't get much use in 4WD.

Exactly what I did in my build thread. The rear shaft joints were replaced, "just because" at around 140k miles and I have left the front shaft alone. The rear joints looked great and needle bearings were greasy. I do not like greaseable joints. I like the fully sealed joints. Less chance of moisture/debris getting in there.

 

[opfor2]

So I ended up ordering OEM AC Delco joints for the rear and Moog for the front along with OEM GM front and rear transfer case seals. Rochauto did not have OEM front joint hence the Moog's