Tips/Advice from anyone that has replaced control arms?

[2010gmcyukon]

It looks like its time for ball joint replacements on my 2010.
The quote from my usual shop for replacing the 2 lower ball joints and the 2 upper control arms (w/new ball joints) is about $1860 + alignment. Its $783 parts and $1076 labor.

My understanding is that if I'm going to replace ball joints myself its more efficient to just replace the control arms (upper and lower). I priced 4 new Moog CK control arms w/ball joints at $434.
So already there, they have marked up the parts quite a bit. I watched a video on replacing the upper control arms and this is a bit more involved than I thought. I did replace the front struts myself last year and I do a lot of the other basic maintenance stuff.

I'm really on the fence about doing these in my driveway. Does anyone have any advice on doing these myself? Is it worth the $1k in labor to not mess with them?

 

[Geotrash]

It looks like its time for ball joint replacements on my 2010.
The quote from my usual shop for replacing the 2 lower ball joints and the 2 upper control arms (w/new ball joints) is about $1860 + alignment. Its $783 parts and $1076 labor.

My understanding is that if I'm going to replace ball joints myself its more efficient to just replace the control arms (upper and lower). I priced 4 new Moog CK control arms w/ball joints at $434.
So already there, they have marked up the parts quite a bit. I watched a video on replacing the upper control arms and this is a bit more involved than I thought. I did replace the front struts myself last year and I do a lot of the other basic maintenance stuff.

I'm really on the fence about doing these in my driveway. Does anyone have any advice on doing these myself? Is it worth the $1k in labor to not mess with them?

I did mine on my '07 a few years ago and it was a straightforward job. It took me a whole Saturday to do both sides, and I recall a few things from it that might be helpful:

The tools I had for working on regular-sized cars, such as my HF ball joint separator, were too small to do the job on the gargantuan size parts on the Yukon. So I ended up using a good old-fashioned pickle fork to separate them, which worked fine because it was an Arizona truck, but could be a challenge if they're heavily corroded.

Removing and tightening the upper control arm bolts to the frame required a very long 1/2' drive breaker bar. And even then at 6' and 230 lbs, it was all I could do to get those bolts off. And the tightening torque was greater than my 1/2" torque wrench was calibrated for, so I felt sure I was gonna break either my torque wrench, the bolt, or the frame mount, getting it tight, but it worked out fine. I just maxed out my torque wrench and switched to the breaker bar for one last oomph of torque on each.

IIRC, the lower ball joints need to be installed and torqued with the weight of the vehicle on them. Check the manual to be sure. You will need a jack on the bottom of the brake rotor to do this. It's important because if you don't, the dust boot will fail early.

While I was in there, I checked my wheel bearings and they were fine, but installed new brake pads and rotors, new sway bar links, and outer tire rod ends.

Take it in for an alignment when you're done.

 

[2010gmcyukon]

Thanks for the input. I'll read up more on the lower ball joints...my hope was that they were pre-installed in the arms so I didn't have to mess with them.

 

[Geotrash]

Thanks for the input. I'll read up more on the lower ball joints...my hope was that they were pre-installed in the arms so I didn't have to mess with them.

They are. But you still have to separate them from the steering knuckle.

 

[2010gmcyukon]

They are. But you still have to separate them from the steering knuckle.

Ah ok, that makes sense. Thanks!

 

[Tonyv__]

I got roughly the same quote for my 2015. About $1700 so I see that’s the going rate and I wasn’t exactly getting beat over the head…. I’ll still be doing them in my driveway. My Yukon isn’t my only car so If i have to walk away and get to it the following day or so it will be fine

 

[Tonyv__]

I did mine on my '07 a few years ago and it was a straightforward job. It took me a whole Saturday to do both sides, and I recall a few things from it that might be helpful:

The tools I had for working on regular-sized cars, such as my HF ball joint separator, were too small to do the job on the gargantuan size parts on the Yukon. So I ended up using a good old-fashioned pickle fork to separate them, which worked fine because it was an Arizona truck, but could be a challenge if they're heavily corroded.

Removing and tightening the upper control arm bolts to the frame required a very long 1/2' drive breaker bar. And even then at 6' and 230 lbs, it was all I could do to get those bolts off. And the tightening torque was greater than my 1/2" torque wrench was calibrated for, so I felt sure I was gonna break either my torque wrench, the bolt, or the frame mount, getting it tight, but it worked out fine. I just maxed out my torque wrench and switched to the breaker bar for one last oomph of torque on each.

IIRC, the lower ball joints need to be installed and torqued with the weight of the vehicle on them. Check the manual to be sure. You will need a jack on the bottom of the brake rotor to do this. It's important because if you don't, the dust boot will fail early.

While I was in there, I checked my wheel bearings and they were fine, but installed new brake pads and rotors, new sway bar links, and outer tire rod ends.

Take it in for an alignment when you're done.

What’s your torque wrench maxed out at? I just bought one today 50-250lb. Hopefully that will do the job. I plan to do mine in the spring

 

[swathdiver]

It looks like its time for ball joint replacements on my 2010.
The quote from my usual shop for replacing the 2 lower ball joints and the 2 upper control arms (w/new ball joints) is about $1860 + alignment. Its $783 parts and $1076 labor.

My understanding is that if I'm going to replace ball joints myself its more efficient to just replace the control arms (upper and lower). I priced 4 new Moog CK control arms w/ball joints at $434.
So already there, they have marked up the parts quite a bit. I watched a video on replacing the upper control arms and this is a bit more involved than I thought. I did replace the front struts myself last year and I do a lot of the other basic maintenance stuff.

I'm really on the fence about doing these in my driveway. Does anyone have any advice on doing these myself? Is it worth the $1k in labor to not mess with them?

Check the prices for the ACDelco Professional upper and lower control arms, they are the same item and last time I checked, they were much less than Moog.

I did a write up on this on my build page called "useless information" earlier this year. Proper tools are key to make the job as smooth sailing as possible.

So, exactly what parts are being replaced for $783? Oh my word! Just looked up the ones I purchased in the spring and prices have skyrocketed! I was having a heart attack then over the prices, this is crazy now!

 

[Bill 1960]

It’s not a bad driveway job. I replaced all of mine and installed my lift at the same time.

$1k probably only buys you 6 hours of shop time plus an alignment at today’s rates, which is about right. I’d take longer than that doing it myself, but I’m slow and meticulous. It’s not really a bad job unless you have salt corrosion.

 

[2010gmcyukon]

It’s not really a bad job unless you have salt corrosion.

LOL...yes I live in Nebraska. That is always an issue. Although its not too bad on mine. Looks like it was undercoated when it was purchased.

 

[2010gmcyukon]

So, exactly what parts are being replaced for $783?

That's the shop prices for 2 upper control arms and 2 lower balljoints. I can get the Moog CK upper control arms and complete lower control arms for $434.

 

[swathdiver]

That's the shop prices for 2 upper control arms and 2 lower balljoints. I can get the Moog CK upper control arms and complete lower control arms for $434.

If memory serves, there is more shop time in replacing the ball joints themselves than in replacing the whole arm. ACDelco Professional arms are literally Moog CK and the last time I looked they were less expensive than Moog so you might save some bucks that way.

 

[89Suburban]

When I did my upper arm the bolts were seized in the bushings and I had to cut them out with a sawzall.

 

[2010gmcyukon]

If memory serves, there is more shop time in replacing the ball joints themselves than in replacing the whole arm. ACDelco Professional arms are literally Moog CK and the last time I looked they were less expensive than Moog so you might save some bucks that way.

Thanks, I'll look into that.

 

[ahunn]

Had to use a sawsall as well to get the job done on my tahoe. Went through a lot of blades that night.

 

[ahunn]

I'll add also that you should be wary of Moog control arms with part number starting with R. In my experience this applies to the lower control arms only. The upper control arms are still working for me at this moment. My UCA's and LCA's have been on for one year and I found out a few days ago that the lower control arms have failed/ have play in them.

 

[ahunn]

I made a mistake. After a bit of checking my upper control arms are the ck part number.

 

[2010gmcyukon]

I'll add also that you should be wary of Moog control arms with part number starting with R. In my experience this applies to the lower control arms only. The upper control arms are still working for me at this moment. My UCA's and LCA's have been on for one year and I found out a few days ago that the lower control arms have failed/ have play in them.

Yeah I've caught that message loud and clear. Defintely no Moog "R" control arms.

 

[fire730]

Before jacking up the truck make a mental note of the position of the upper and lower control arms.
Take the brake caliper off and hang it off to the side.
Take the spindle off.
Remove the strut assembly.
Take the sway bar endlinks off.
Remove both control arms.
Install the new arms.
Put them at the same level as they were when the truck was on the ground.
Tighten them up fully and reinstall everything in reverse order.
No need to tighten the control arms when the truck is on the ground and you avoid putting a bind on your brand new bushings.

 

[89Suburban]

Had to use a sawsall as well to get the job done on my tahoe. Went through a lot of blades that night.

I went through like 6 bi-metals and only got through 60 percent of the first bolt. The 8 tooth red diablo cut right through the last of that and the 2nd one like nothing. That blade kicks ass. I mean it cut right through the entire bolt heads without hurting the alignment cams.

Remove your nuts, cut the bolt heads off. then you can pry the frame ears open far enough to cut the bolt shanks at the sides of the bushings.