I don't it's just what the dealer told me when they found out what was causing my issue after already doing the steering column and other things. it did solve the problem though.
Thump in floorboard can’t fine source
- Thread starter Ponchonutty
- Start date
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Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation) #03-08-61-002E - (Apr 14, 2005)
2003-2005 Cadillac Escalade
2003-2005 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe
and other 2003 - 2005 GMT800 vehicles.
Note: All 1500 Series (½ Ton) with Two-Wheel Drive
Hmmm, I thought the Escalade was ALL Wheel Drive?
This bulletin is being revised to update the correction information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002D (Section 08 -- Body and Accessories).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a snap or popping-type noise coming from the front of the vehicle. This condition is most apparent during hard left or right turns at low speeds. Going over bumps while turning may also aid in producing this noise.
Correction
Change the front crossmember fastener orientation using the procedure listed below.
Important: DO NOT slot the mounting holes on the crossmember as stated in previous bulletins. Slotting the holes has been found to be less effective and, in some cases, causes the noise condition to be more prevalent.
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.
2. Remove the mounting nuts, bolts and the front crossmember from the vehicle.
3. Clean all the undercoating off the crossmember in the area of the mounting holes.
4. Reinstall the crossmember with the bolts and nuts. On the passenger side, replace existing washer with GM P/N 11509592 or equivalent washer (see dimensions below) at each bolt head and nut location.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 120 N·m (89 lb ft).
5. Apply an even coat of Anti-Corrosion Coating, P/N 12346501, or equivalent, to the crossmember where removed. Overlap the original coating in order to provide an effective corrosion protection.
Washer:
Inside Diameter: 14 mm (0.551 in)
Outside Diameter: 35 mm (1.38 in)
Thickness: 3 mm (0.118 in)
Part Information
Qty, 4 each, 11509592 Washer
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
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Ponchonutty
Full Access Member
Here you go
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Ponchonutty
Full Access Member
Well after speaking to a friend of mine that described the same noise in his avalanche and it went away after he did a lift (changed out the whole front suspension), I did the same. I bought all new upper and lower control arms. These were factory replacements with all bushings and ball joints installed. Ball joints appeared to be a little sloppy with the two lowers being the worst. The bushings also were pretty rough but all in all, not what I was expecting. Took a small ride down some bumpy roads and sound is still there and actually sounds a little worse. This makes me wonder if possibly the noise is from a arm bolts not being tight enough? The holes in the frame appeared to be normal. Not sure what to look at next other than body mounts. I’m pretty pissed at this point because I was sure I found the problem. I mean the truck has 180k miles so it’s not a bad idea to have changed what I did. Only problem was this was a HUGE pain to do. I’ve got a decent amount of tools but a torch and air hammer would have helped. On both sides the upper front a arm bolts snapped and took for ever to get out. The rest wasn’t too bad except for driver side lower ball joint. I ended up buying a fork and still had to put a jack under it while beating the snot out it to get it to pop
did any of that involve doing the above ^^mentioned possible cause(s)?
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Ponchonutty
Full Access Member
Do what? The body mounts?
crossmember or body mount?
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Ponchonutty
Full Access Member
Crossmember was fine. I ordered the isolation pieces for the body mounts I talked about earlier
mine looked fine also, but sure enough swapped the bolts and washers around and the problem went away, just my experience....
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Ponchonutty
Full Access Member
On crossmember?
yes the crossmember
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Ponchonutty
Full Access Member
I will check it again. Can’t imagine it’s that with my ride having 188k miles all in the rust belt. Should be welded together from rust by now
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Ponchonutty
Full Access Member
Did you install tie rods or just ball joints?
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Ponchonutty
Full Access Member
All balljoints and bushings. I didn’t do tie rods. They had zero play in them
Mine have zero play when I try to move them by hand but I get a clunk like you're describing only with my wheels turned a specific direction and magnitude. I'm still replacing them just to eliminate that as a possibility and really, why not? The rest of the front end is new.
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Ponchonutty
Full Access Member
Gotcha. My noise typically has no noise associated with position of wheels
