Thinking of Buying a 00-06 NBS Tahoe/Suburban? Look Here

[VikingTrad3r]

id ask for compression test and see results on paper. and a cooling sustem pressure test. thats all. the rest you can deal with if you need to.

 

[00YukonSLT5.3Rwd]

Knock sensors and intake gaskets common, fuel pumps are common, and let's not forget the wonderful cold start knock. Tune ups are a breeze, and they can take a hit. Had to replace my previous one when I was hit at a dead stop by someone in a Nissan Rogue doing 70mph. Folded the frame under in the rear and fused the doors shut but kept my passenger and I safe.

 

[Stick]

I have a 2000 Denali and i see that isn't on this list so here's my input:

5.7l. and was the last of the good ol 350's. If feeding it isn't an issue to you then all's good. That or buy newer with the 6.0l. I'm not sure that the 5.3 (327 *325 actually*) is enough of a power plant for these things if you intended on using it to tow very often. The 5.3 is obviously not quite as concerned about not having gas station in sight at least.

Now for the dirt. Not a lot that hasn't already been spoken of here...
Spider injector. This is a major setback and it shreds a lot more than itself when failing resulting in extensive carbon build up on everything. Just an awful mess.This model year was the last of them though i do believe. Not terribly difficult to replace but expensive.
Headlights. As with most older plastic lenses these are punished.
Given the age of the vehicle as it sits now, I'd have to say it's outstanding really. I could list off repairs that have been done but none would be too far outside of upkeep maintenance. Aside from the engine swap that is, but that's partially due to an error on my part and the fact that the prior owner treated it like total sheet. It was a monumental task just trying to clean and rid the interior of the smell of a long, long ago left behind and expired double double coffee before it was parked (that injector) for a year before I acquired it.
Anyway, I'm drifting off topic but just thought I'd share my experience thus far.

*Edit* Oh, and trying to properly source out replacement items is ridiculous, it's more like a 99.5 that fell through the cracks. Mismatched stereo components and essentially the leftovers from models past and occasional odd looks from parts stores. Anyway, my fix for that is i look for 99 related items instead.

 

[bayareadude84]

I have a 2000 Denali and i see that isn't on this list so here's my input:

5.7l. and was the last of the good ol 350's. If feeding it isn't an issue to you then all's good. That or buy newer with the 6.0l. I'm not sure that the 5.3 (327 *325 actually*) is enough of a power plant for these things if you intended on using it to tow very often. The 5.3 is obviously not quite as concerned about not having gas station in sight at least.

Now for the dirt. Not a lot that hasn't already been spoken of here...
Spider injector. This is a major setback and it shreds a lot more than itself when failing resulting in extensive carbon build up on everything. Just an awful mess.This model year was the last of them though i do believe. Not terribly difficult to replace but expensive.
Headlights. As with most older plastic lenses these are punished.
Given the age of the vehicle as it sits now, I'd have to say it's outstanding really. I could list off repairs that have been done but none would be too far outside of upkeep maintenance. Aside from the engine swap that is, but that's partially due to an error on my part and the fact that the prior owner treated it like total sheet. It was a monumental task just trying to clean and rid the interior of the smell of a long, long ago left behind and expired double double coffee before it was parked (that injector) for a year before I acquired it.
Anyway, I'm drifting off topic but just thought I'd share my experience thus far.

*Edit* Oh, and trying to properly source out replacement items is ridiculous, it's more like a 99.5 that fell through the cracks. Mismatched stereo components and essentially the leftovers from models past and occasional odd looks from parts stores. Anyway, my fix for that is i look for 99 related items instead.

Not to be a ****, But you have a GMT400 92-99 style. This thread is for the GMT800 '00-06 NBS trucks.

 

[bayareadude84]

Knock sensors and intake gaskets common, fuel pumps are common, and let's not forget the wonderful cold start knock. Tune ups are a breeze, and they can take a hit. Had to replace my previous one when I was hit at a dead stop by someone in a Nissan Rogue doing 70mph. Folded the frame under in the rear and fused the doors shut but kept my passenger and I safe.

Ughh those $^%! knock sensors. Have had 4 of the NBS GMT 800's Pickups and SUV's all have had over 200K miles and never needed the knocks sensors replaced. Now I just picked up a '01 Sierra 4.8 with 230K miles and a week after I bought the truck the $%@! code P0332 pops up, So now its time for knock sensors/harness and intake gaskets

 

[Stick]

Not to be a ****, But you have a GMT400 92-99 style. This thread is for the GMT800 '00-06 NBS trucks.

Ya, i realize that now. It's the 2000 thing i looked at. This truck i see is a pain in the ass as far as it's build date goes. Slapped together with all the spare parts from the 10 years prior. It almost doesn't exist Haha

 

[mikemc422]

So I'm looking to buy a Tahoe/Yukon (maybe a Suburban or Yukon XL, not sure yet, but no Escalades), and I read through all of this and only have 2 questions I didn't see answers to...
#1: are there any mileage-related issues (like BMW with cooling systems failing around 100k and TrailBlazer transmissions failing around 120-140k), especially ones that are large enough to avoid trucks with a certain amount of miles
#2: around how long do these trucks tend to last? If they usually last around 500k then I'd feel comfortable buying one with 230k with leather, barn doors (I don't like the regular hatch) and a sunroof for the same price as the base model with cloth seats and a regular trunk hatch with 150k...

I'm planning on buying one in February, but if I can find a good deal on a good truck before then I'll buy it, but I have my scion for a DD till the end of February... I can't wait to have a truck and no car payment again though...

 

[adventurenali92]

@commander strax , I'm doing some research for my rig and trying to figure out if my 2006 denali xl has castech heads. The photo you attached isn't showing up in this thread. Any chance you could repost that? Or shoot me some info on how to figure out if my rig has cast each heads or not?

 

[bayareadude84]

So I'm looking to buy a Tahoe/Yukon (maybe a Suburban or Yukon XL, not sure yet, but no Escalades), and I read through all of this and only have 2 questions I didn't see answers to...
#1: are there any mileage-related issues (like BMW with cooling systems failing around 100k and TrailBlazer transmissions failing around 120-140k), especially ones that are large enough to avoid trucks with a certain amount of miles
#2: around how long do these trucks tend to last? If they usually last around 500k then I'd feel comfortable buying one with 230k with leather, barn doors (I don't like the regular hatch) and a sunroof for the same price as the base model with cloth seats and a regular trunk hatch with 150k...

I'm planning on buying one in February, but if I can find a good deal on a good truck before then I'll buy it, but I have my scion for a DD till the end of February... I can't wait to have a truck and no car payment again though...

Mikemc422:

Have owned a mix of 00-01 Burbans and Silverado/Sierras Mix 4.8 and 5.3


At high mileage, I would keep an eye out on any Knock Sensors, Transmissions. Make sure no major engine leaks. These are the common and EXPENSIVE issues these trucks have.


But it's really HARD to say what can go out just based on mileage, It all depends on service/maintenance history of the vehicle. For example when I was working at a GM dealer last year. I sold a lady a new 2015 Suburban and she traded in a 2006 Suburban LT loaded up with only 118K miles, But guess what ?? it was POORLY maintained, Rear end making a noise, Transmission wouldn't shift into 3/4th gear, Engine was leaking everywhere. PW steering pump was badly leaking, interior was filthy.....ETC
Another example I'm into crown vic cop cars. Have had 5 of them in the past, Guess what the best driving and handling was a 2006 EX CHP unit with 200K miles !!! Night and day difference VS the 2010 I just sold with 95k miles.


Safe to say anything over 200K miles I would do some preventative maintenance. I would replace basic cheap stuff. Whenever I picked up one of these rigs in the past, I have done following


oil change and Flush Oil
Trans filter/gasket (If dark)
Rear Diff change
Serp and a/c belt
Air filter
Fuel Filter
Cabin Filter
Spark Plugs
Shocks
Brake Pads



#2

Most of us have seen or heard of these trucks going up to 500K, But I would say its pretty rare. I see a TON of these with 250-300K miles on craigslist/autotrader and most still run fine. But for me if I didn't buy it new or have FULL service history. I would sell em at 275-300K miles.

Hightest I ever had one of these was a '99 Sierra with the 4.8 and it was VERY VERY well maintained and sold at 300K miles and The truck still smoked tires !!!!!!

Some on here might disagree but with 300K miles+ I say you're rolling the dice


P.S Both my 00 and 01 Burbs came with barn doors and I love em !!!

 

[mikemc422]

Mikemc422:

Have owned a mix of 00-01 Burbans and Silverado/Sierras Mix 4.8 and 5.3


At high mileage, I would keep an eye out on any Knock Sensors, Transmissions. Make sure no major engine leaks. These are the common and EXPENSIVE issues these trucks have.


But it's really HARD to say what can go out just based on mileage, It all depends on service/maintenance history of the vehicle. For example when I was working at a GM dealer last year. I sold a lady a new 2015 Suburban and she traded in a 2006 Suburban LT loaded up with only 118K miles, But guess what ?? it was POORLY maintained, Rear end making a noise, Transmission wouldn't shift into 3/4th gear, Engine was leaking everywhere. PW steering pump was badly leaking, interior was filthy.....ETC
Another example I'm into crown vic cop cars. Have had 5 of them in the past, Guess what the best driving and handling was a 2006 EX CHP unit with 200K miles !!! Night and day difference VS the 2010 I just sold with 95k miles.


Safe to say anything over 200K miles I would do some preventative maintenance. I would replace basic cheap stuff. Whenever I picked up one of these rigs in the past, I have done following


oil change and Flush Oil
Trans filter/gasket (If dark)
Rear Diff change
Serp and a/c belt
Air filter
Fuel Filter
Cabin Filter
Spark Plugs
Shocks
Brake Pads



#2

Most of us have seen or heard of these trucks going up to 500K, But I would say its pretty rare. I see a TON of these with 250-300K miles on craigslist/autotrader and most still run fine. But for me if I didn't buy it new or have FULL service history. I would sell em at 275-300K miles.

Hightest I ever had one of these was a '99 Sierra with the 4.8 and it was VERY VERY well maintained and sold at 300K miles and The truck still smoked tires !!!!!!

Some on here might disagree but with 300K miles+ I say you're rolling the dice


P.S Both my 00 and 01 Burbs came with barn doors and I love em !!!

My aunt has had 3 Tahoes (an 01, an 05, and an 06) and she said she had the steering wheel was crooked (it was a theft recovery) and the a/c had a few issues pop up all at once on the 06 at 160k and the 05 was the only hatch and she hated it... the 01 she bought new and the others she bought at 140k and 145k, but other than that she had no complaints about any of them... I honestly hate the hatch too, my fathers expedition (1998, 5.4, bought new, 490k miles and it's still his dd) has had a lot of issues with it not opening and not staying up and not locking... same with my mothers Equinox... barn doors just have less to go wrong and they look better in my opinion...

As for the mileage, I think I'll try to find the lowest mileage truck I can find with a decent service history, and one that's an original FL truck (most FL vehicles will be rust free and almost all highway miles, not many people down here have a short commute or heavy city traffic)... the only option I'd want that I couldn't add would be a sunroof (aftermarket ones tend to leak) so if I could find one equipped with one I'll be happy. I'm not too worried about hitting 500k if I build the truck how I want (lower it, paint it, etc... just make it look and handle good) because if I like it enough to keep it I can just drop a crate 454 in it and do a 5 speed swap in a couple years when the engine blows, as long as the truck lasts me 100-150k or more with the engine/trans that's in it I'm good.

 

[GMmatt]

2004 Yukon Denali AWD 6.0 engine
132k miles
$8000

I'm thinking of buying this vehicle and had recently spoke with a mechanic about it. He said the differentials in the AWD go bad around 130k miles. Does anyone else experience this or do they last much longer?
Also the truck has 22" rims and 305 tires. Will this really put that much more strain on the suspension?
I was advised not to buy the vehicle that is was high maintenance. Do you guys agree or is my mechanic just being overly concerned?

 

[adventurenali92]

@GMmatt , those look like 20s but hard to tell cuz of the pic. Lol. Strain on suspension will happen from many different factors, not just bigger wheels. My air ride suspension was blown when I bought it because the previous owner towed a lot and didn't bother to maintain it and replace parts when they gave out. And my car is riding on stock Denali 17 inch wheels and stock tire size. So bigger rims doesn't necessarily cause added strain. Anyways I wouldn't shy away from if its been well maintained. Cars will need parts as they are driven that's a given, a differential, not an easy replacement but not major in the grand scheme of a vehicles life. That wouldn't steer me away from a Denali. Your mechanic could be being over zealous about it or it could need one. He wouldn't know for sure unless he opens up the differential to find out.

 

[1992rs]

@GMmatt compared to a 4wd Tahoe or Yukon they are a bit higher maintenance, but compared to other vehicles they are still pretty low maintenance. The awd will accelerate wear on the steering, hubs and differential but it's all how you use it and take care of it. I'm at 137k and am not easy on it and my front differential is still going. Lately because of the cold mornings it's a little loud upon start up but once it's warmed up, it's solid. At the end of the day, living in the pnw I wouldn't trade the awd for anything but you might not see that it's necessary. As 22's are concerned, they might put more strain but how much more shouldn't be that much of a concern, plus they look better and I think my 20's ride way better than the 17's I had.

I'm also heavily biased towards the gmt800 Denali and think it's the best looking suv gm has ever made so take everything I said with a grain of salt


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[GMmatt]

Thanks for the input guys. I'm sad to report that I passed it up. Wanted it really bad but long story short I was advised against it and fearful of costly maintenance. Thanks again to both of you for the reply.

 

[Rocket Man]

If you like it, buy it. I love my 02 Denali and at 138k it seems like it's just broken in. Of course I've done quite a bit to it as far as mods and maintenance but nothing major. The trans was rebuilt before I bought it. Keep in mind it was originally a $48,000 truck in 2002 and the new ones are more like $70 k so I always figure that if something like a differential goes out its still well worth it. These rigs are known to go to extremely high mileage without too much breaking.
Edit: oops, didn't see you passed it up. Too bad.

 

[95escahoe]

2004 Yukon Denali AWD 6.0 engine
132k miles
$8000

I'm thinking of buying this vehicle and had recently spoke with a mechanic about it. He said the differentials in the AWD go bad around 130k miles. Does anyone else experience this or do they last much longer?
Also the truck has 22" rims and 305 tires. Will this really put that much more strain on the suspension?
I was advised not to buy the vehicle that is was high maintenance. Do you guys agree or is my mechanic just being overly concerned?

View attachment 70291

Saw your post that you didn't get the Denali, the Esky and Denali eat front diffs even people that have regularly changed the fluid still have issues you just never know, the transfer case has a clip that overtime can wear a hole in the case but where it is most likely you won't know till it's too late, they make and updated clip, brake lines on these trucks rot out quick if your in a snowy place, there is a seal between the transfer case and tranny that can go letting tranny fluid leak into the transfer case and burn the trans up if you don't know about the leak, intake gaskets are common there's and updated one out now, other than that there great trucks I got my 04 Esky 6.0 AWD with 155k at 160k and change and running mint so far


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[jiggie]

Hey all! I see that it's been a while since anyone posted so hopefully someone is around lol. I'm looking at trading my 99 burb with 184 k for an 06 escalade with the awd and 174k. It seems to be in pretty good shape but due to bad credit(don't judge but not putting all my chips on the bowl)I'm buying it from a bad credit dealership. It's the best of all the vehicles I looked at today.

They are giving me a pretty good trade value for my burb so I'm strongly thinking about it. Is there anything specific to the 06 escalade that I should look for? When I drove it tonight the air ride seemed to function correctly, all the interior functions seemed to work correctly i.e. Heated seats and power functions of the seats, stereo sunroof rear wiper etc. not much wear on the seats but you can tell a family had it cause it's still dirty(worst detail job for a lot vehicle I've ever seen) they are asking 13500 but they said they will Lower the price. All the belts look good and there were no signs of leaks or an accident on the frame or underneath. Also no weird smells. Only thing we noticed was a shimmy in the front along with some noise either from the diff or wheel bearing and it doesn't have the nav disk.

I'm wanting to down size from my full size burb but still need to be able to tow,have room for 6-7 people. Plus it's a Cadillac and it's not rusted to crap lol. I feel having a vehicle with a full power train warranty is better than trying to do repairs to my burb. I have to pay someone to do the work because I'm not able to do much more than the required work like oil changes my self. Anyone think this is a good deal or should I keep my burb and just do the work. Burb needs the spider injection upgrade, tune up, new cats, need to figure out the random vibration in the front end and some small leaks at the t case and cooler lines. Already did Intake gaskets and trans service shocks fuel filter front shocks. Tires etc when I bought it.


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[bayareadude84]

Hey all! I see that it's been a while since anyone posted so hopefully someone is around lol. I'm looking at trading my 99 burb with 184 k for an 06 escalade with the awd and 174k. It seems to be in pretty good shape but due to bad credit(don't judge but not putting all my chips on the bowl)I'm buying it from a bad credit dealership. It's the best of all the vehicles I looked at today.

They are giving me a pretty good trade value for my burb so I'm strongly thinking about it. Is there anything specific to the 06 escalade that I should look for? When I drove it tonight the air ride seemed to function correctly, all the interior functions seemed to work correctly i.e. Heated seats and power functions of the seats, stereo sunroof rear wiper etc. not much wear on the seats but you can tell a family had it cause it's still dirty(worst detail job for a lot vehicle I've ever seen) they are asking 13500 but they said they will Lower the price. All the belts look good and there were no signs of leaks or an accident on the frame or underneath. Also no weird smells. Only thing we noticed was a shimmy in the front along with some noise either from the diff or wheel bearing and it doesn't have the nav disk.

I'm wanting to down size from my full size burb but still need to be able to tow,have room for 6-7 people. Plus it's a Cadillac and it's not rusted to crap lol. I feel having a vehicle with a full power train warranty is better than trying to do repairs to my burb. I have to pay someone to do the work because I'm not able to do much more than the required work like oil changes my self. Anyone think this is a good deal or should I keep my burb and just do the work. Burb needs the spider injection upgrade, tune up, new cats, need to figure out the random vibration in the front end and some small leaks at the t case and cooler lines. Already did Intake gaskets and trans service shocks fuel filter front shocks. Tires etc when I bought it.


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Sorry, But to be honest $13K is a RIP OFF for an 11 year old Escalade with that many miles !!!!



I'm sure If you keep searching around you can find a '07 newer Yukon XL / Suburban for that price range.



Dave

 

[jiggie]

Sorry, But to be honest $13K is a RIP OFF for an 11 year old Escalade with that many miles !!!!



I'm sure If you keep searching around you can find a '07 newer Yukon XL / Suburban for that price range.



Dave

Oh I've Been looking lol. I'm actually trying to down size so a xl Yukon or suburban would just be keeping what I have now lol. The escalade is the small one not the ext. I've been doin some value research and for my area on a rust free or even with minor rust the dealership fair market price is around 9500 with a retail price of about 10450. I was surprised to see that high of a value with that kind of mileage but this one is loaded with the nav and DVD system 2nd row heated seats. Im going to try and talk them down as much as I can. They already said they would come down but didn't say how much. It needs tires because they are mismatched and that's a no no on awd vehicles, and needs some other small issues addressed. So if they won't put new tires on it I'll make them take my cost off the price too. And of course I'll as for a full tank of gas. So fingered crossed. If it doesn't work out I'll keep my burb


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[95escahoe]

Oh I've Been looking lol. I'm actually trying to down size so a xl Yukon or suburban would just be keeping what I have now lol. The escalade is the small one not the ext. I've been doin some value research and for my area on a rust free or even with minor rust the dealership fair market price is around 9500 with a retail price of about 10450. I was surprised to see that high of a value with that kind of mileage but this one is loaded with the nav and DVD system 2nd row heated seats. Im going to try and talk them down as much as I can. They already said they would come down but didn't say how much. It needs tires because they are mismatched and that's a no no on awd vehicles, and needs some other small issues addressed. So if they won't put new tires on it I'll make them take my cost off the price too. And of course I'll as for a full tank of gas. So fingered crossed. If it doesn't work out I'll keep my burb


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Tally up everything it needs and deduct that off the KBB value and that's the price you pay don't overpay, it's ok to pay a lil over but not 3k over sounds like there trying to take advantage of people with bad credit imo, most banks won't give you a loan for more then the value of the truck and there might be a mileage limit too, best bet is a credit union


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