Thinking of Buying a 00-06 NBS Tahoe/Suburban? Look Here

[Rocket Man]

Hey all! I see that it's been a while since anyone posted so hopefully someone is around lol. I'm looking at trading my 99 burb with 184 k for an 06 escalade with the awd and 174k. It seems to be in pretty good shape but due to bad credit(don't judge but not putting all my chips on the bowl)I'm buying it from a bad credit dealership. It's the best of all the vehicles I looked at today.

They are giving me a pretty good trade value for my burb so I'm strongly thinking about it. Is there anything specific to the 06 escalade that I should look for? When I drove it tonight the air ride seemed to function correctly, all the interior functions seemed to work correctly i.e. Heated seats and power functions of the seats, stereo sunroof rear wiper etc. not much wear on the seats but you can tell a family had it cause it's still dirty(worst detail job for a lot vehicle I've ever seen) they are asking 13500 but they said they will Lower the price. All the belts look good and there were no signs of leaks or an accident on the frame or underneath. Also no weird smells. Only thing we noticed was a shimmy in the front along with some noise either from the diff or wheel bearing and it doesn't have the nav disk.

I'm wanting to down size from my full size burb but still need to be able to tow,have room for 6-7 people. Plus it's a Cadillac and it's not rusted to crap lol. I feel having a vehicle with a full power train warranty is better than trying to do repairs to my burb. I have to pay someone to do the work because I'm not able to do much more than the required work like oil changes my self. Anyone think this is a good deal or should I keep my burb and just do the work. Burb needs the spider injection upgrade, tune up, new cats, need to figure out the random vibration in the front end and some small leaks at the t case and cooler lines. Already did Intake gaskets and trans service shocks fuel filter front shocks. Tires etc when I bought it.


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I know from experience with those kinds of places that what you REALLY need to look out for, besides the inflated sale price, is the interest rate. Watch out for their tactics where you think you've won in talking them down after hours of negotiating but then they make you wait and wait to sign the papers until you just want to get your new rig out of there and they slip some papers to sign that have an APR of 25%. Be careful, those guys are snakes.

 

[jiggie]

Well everyone I ended up passing it up. They wouldn't go along with any of my request and decided not to budge on price. They wouldn't even put gas in it and got rude with all my request. I didn't think asking for new tires a tank of gas and checking the 2 issues was that big of a deal or conning down a few hundred bucks. I even said i would take it as is if they came down 1800 on price. So guess I'll keep my burb and prepare for the 1500 dollar fuel spider repair. Thanks for all the help and maybe at tax time I'll be able to get my escalade lol.


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[HiHoeSilver]

I think it sounds like it's for the best if they were that bad to try and work a deal with. You'll do better in the long run.

 

[95escahoe]

Well everyone I ended up passing it up. They wouldn't go along with any of my request and decided not to budge on price. They wouldn't even put gas in it and got rude with all my request. I didn't think asking for new tires a tank of gas and checking the 2 issues was that big of a deal or conning down a few hundred bucks. I even said i would take it as is if they came down 1800 on price. So guess I'll keep my burb and prepare for the 1500 dollar fuel spider repair. Thanks for all the help and maybe at tax time I'll be able to get my escalade lol.


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I'd look into opening an account at a credit union put a lil bit in as you can then when you need a loan they will most likely help you out I had ****** credit and went that route worked out for me


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[jiggie]

That's what we're going to do. My burb is my baby hopefully she will hold off till taxes before in need to sink money in to her. Going to do a fuel system service on her next week and see if that helps


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[Fosscore]

Good call cutting bait on that fish. Not worth the headache. The right one will come along.

 

[mals]

Well everyone I ended up passing it up.

I'd look into opening an account at a credit union put a lil bit in as you can then when you need a loan they will most likely help you out

I think based on how the deal ended, it is probably for the best. Sounds like it was getting pretty shady as it progressed.

I also agree with finding a credit union to join. Even if you just open a savings account, and deposit a few dollars a month they will work with you when it's time to work out a loan.

 

[bayareadude84]

Mo

I think based on how the deal ended, it is probably for the best. Sounds like it was getting pretty shady as it progressed.
.

Most of those bad credit dealers are SHADY DIRTY SNAKES !! i would NEVER walk into one !!!


When it comes to cars, I always buy cash or put it on my CC for amazon points lol


Dave

 

[mdnitedrftr]

I know from experience with those kinds of places that what you REALLY need to look out for, besides the inflated sale price, is the interest rate. Watch out for their tactics where you think you've won in talking them down after hours of negotiating but then they make you wait and wait to sign the papers until you just want to get your new rig out of there and they slip some papers to sign that have an APR of 25%. Be careful, those guys are snakes.

You just described every used car dealership and salesman, ever.

 

[treehan77]

Mo




Most of those bad credit dealers are SHADY DIRTY SNAKES !! i would NEVER walk into one !!!


When it comes to cars, I always buy cash or put it on my CC for amazon points lol


Dave

What?! Most dealers won't let you put much on a credit card. I tried to do the same for the points last time, max they'd allow was 2 grand. My dad tried to buy a $75k tractor with his to get Cabelas points lol. I would love to buy my next card like that, but i doubt anyone is willing to take the 2.5-3% off the top via credit card

 

[bayareadude84]

What?! Most dealers won't let you put much on a credit card. I tried to do the same for the points last time, max they'd allow was 2 grand. My dad tried to buy a $75k tractor with his to get Cabelas points lol. I would love to buy my next card like that, but i doubt anyone is willing to take the 2.5-3% off the top via credit card

??? Maybe bad dealers ?? I guess I got lucky twice lol ??

I bought my Suburban wholesale $2250 in TX and was able to put it on my CC and got like $225 in amazon points lol. Last year bought a Crown Vic P71 for $3K as my work car and used my Chase CC for CB rewards and got $200 cash back and used it to pay for its registration LMAO


Dave

 

[beeffajitas]

I'm considering making a GMT800 SUV my next vehicle. Which trucks came with the 3/4-ton drivetrain? From what I've been able to determine on my own:

2500 Suburban = 6.0L (LQ4), 4L80E, Semi-floater 14-bolt??, 8-lug
Yukon Denali = 6.0L (LQ4), 4L65E, axle?, 6-lug
Yukon Denali XL = 6.0L (LQ4), 4L80E?, axle?, 6-lug?

I ask because I'd be concerned if the 6.0 and 4L80E was backed up with a 10-bolt.

Thanks!

 

[Herb Rodriguez]

In response to common failures on these trucks I want to mention the transfer case. I had read about the internal failure that causes the magnesium case to get holes in it and leak fluid out. I had dampness on my case that I couldn't nail down where it was coming from until I took off on a long road trip. 400 miles into my trip I realized the leak was happening quicker than I could put fluid back in it. I limped back home and bought a rebuilt unit that had been upgraded to prevent a further failure. I think my transfer case model was a NP 246. I'm not sure there is a way to tell from the outside if the t-case has been repaired other than tell-tail welding marks that plugged the leaks

 

[Kirth Gersen]

Do the 8.1L (L18) engines and 4L80E transmissions have any known risks or weaknesses — like the castech head cracks that affect some of the GMT800 small blocks?

I'm considering a 2001 Suburban 4wd 2500 with 59K miles and the 8.1L drive train, but issues like Castech heads would be a nightmare for me -- don't have time, money or energy to deal with it.

 

[adventurenali92]

I'm considering making a GMT800 SUV my next vehicle. Which trucks came with the 3/4-ton drivetrain? From what I've been able to determine on my own:

2500 Suburban = 6.0L (LQ4), 4L80E, Semi-floater 14-bolt??, 8-lug
Yukon Denali = 6.0L (LQ4), 4L65E, axle?, 6-lug
Yukon Denali XL = 6.0L (LQ4), 4L80E?, axle?, 6-lug?

I ask because I'd be concerned if the 6.0 and 4L80E was backed up with a 10-bolt.

Thanks!

The Yukon Denali and Yukon xl Denali are 1500 trucks. Yes they have the LQ4 6.0L V8, but only the 4L65E transmission, and half ton frame. The 2500 suburban and Yukon XL will be the 3/4 ton drivetrain and frame.

 

[adventurenali92]

Do the 8.1L (L18) engines and 4L80E transmissions have any known risks or weaknesses — like the castech head cracks that affect some of the GMT800 small blocks?

I'm considering a 2001 Suburban 4wd 2500 with 59K miles and the 8.1L drive train, but issues like Castech heads would be a nightmare for me -- don't have time, money or energy to deal with it.

The 8.1L V8 is a beast and will pull just about anything you put behind it, but it’s pretty common to burn through tons of oil. Like TONS! Lol

 

[adventurenali92]

@Donnie Yukonie , I didn’t see listed under the suburban 1500 engine options, the LQ4 6.0 in the 2006 year LTZ package.

 

[Kirth Gersen]

... but it’s pretty common to burn through tons of oil. Like TONS! Lol

Where does the oil go? Into combustion chamber & prematurely foul the plugs? Sucked thru PCV valve and coat insides of throttle body & intake? Can't think of where else oil would go.

 

[adventurenali92]

Where does the oil go? Into combustion chamber & prematurely foul the plugs? Sucked thru PCV valve and coat insides of throttle body & intake? Can't think of where else oil would go.

I’m not sure. I didn’t have one. But the family that owns the property where I live who I’ve known since I moved to big bear, had a 2002 8.1L Yukon XL. He said that every month or so he had to just put a couple quarts of oil in and that changing oil never happened because it would burn through the oil he kept putting in and there weren’t any leaks.

 

[Kirth Gersen]

well, did some interwebz searching and GM acknowledged a problem and had an early 2000s TSB on the 8.1L engine's excessive oil consumption.
Couldnt find the original TSB but it is mostly reprinted here:
http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/26737-oil-consumption/
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/intake-manifold-bolts-2001-02-gm-8-1l-vin-g-engine-95398.html

GM considered 1 qt every 100 gallons of fuel (about 1000 mile) "normal" and wouldnt do the service unless oil consumption was even larger.

The gist of the TSB # 02-06-01-035 (Oct 2002) is:

Cause: Oil vapor pulled into combustion chamber through the intake manifold may cause this condition.

Correction: Replace all the intake manifold bolts. Replace one bolt at a time in sequence to keep the intake manifold from shifting.​

And in 2005, a redesigned intake manifold gasket was also released.

I'm still not understanding why that would correct problem, but whatever. Other searches indicated this "fix" would often not resolve the problem..