Tapping getting louder. Can’t pinpoint and have tried stethoscope to no avail.

[iboughtatahoe23]

It’s like it’s coming from the torque converter or bottom bellhouse area. It’s a consistent tap. I’m getting scared cause the dealership said an exhaust leak.
Sounds:
Video 1
Video 2

 

[NickTransmissions]

Fix your exhaust leak for God's sake. You have at least three other threads on that one issue yet AFAIK you haven't done anything about it. If you aren't in a position to yank the heads to remove the broken stud then at least install the clamp you bought. Here's a short video from Dorman that explains the process, in case you haven't seen it. Looks like it takes about a half hour or so to do and should eliminate it as the source of the 'ticking/tapping' noises. If you have already installed the clamp and confirmed that the exhaust leak has been fixed then continue reading.

My 2003 Tahoe has been making the exact same sounds heard in your first video above (as well as some of your other clips posted in other threads) for the past 10 years / 70k+ miles. It still runs/drives fine and I don't worry about it.

If yours starts running real rough, you smell fuel, major tapping, misfires, or other symptoms of a collapsed lifter, yank the heads and replace all the lifters (use OEM new or equally reputable manufacturers - don't cheap out!), lifter trays (OEM only), knock sensors (OEM only), set of head bolts (OEM TTY or ARP - I'd go ARP but that's my personal preference), gaskets and seals. Have the heads checked for warpage (you can do this yourself with a precision straight edge and .001-.003 feeler gauges) and gone through (new valves, hardware, springs, guides if needed, etc).

Did you have the dealership give you a transmission diagnosis while it was there?

Multiple threads on that as well so hopefully you had them do a complete diag work up so you now know exactly what's wrong with it (if anything).

 

[wjburken]

Pull that inspection cover plug that’s on the bottom of the bell housing and make sure your flex plate isn’t cracked.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I could most certainly be wrong about this but dont think its the flexplate.

The couple trucks ive been in with verified cracked flex plates made a distinct knocking sound that was felt as much as it was heard. Vibrations were felt when putting it in and out of drive and reverse.

If the video is truely representative of the tapping sound as it is in person, it sound like an exhaust leak or normal valve train noise. Mine sounds just like it at idle and moderate acceleration.

The dealer is telling him exhaust leak (and the service techs were there listening to it) so putting that clamp on should help him rule in or out the broken stud as the source.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Pull that inspection cover plug that’s on the bottom of the bell housing and make sure your flex plate isn’t cracked.

Will try this.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Pull that inspection cover plug that’s on the bottom of the bell housing and make sure your flex plate isn’t cracked.

I could most certainly be wrong about this but dont think its the flexplate.

The couple trucks ive been in with verified cracked flex plates made a distinct knocking sound that was felt as much as it was heard. Vibrations were felt when putting it in and out of drive and reverse.

If the video is truely representative of the tapping sound as it is in person, it sound like an exhaust leak or normal valve train noise. Mine sounds just like it at idle and moderate acceleration.

The dealer is telling him exhaust leak (and the service techs were there listening to it) so putting that clamp on should help him rule in or out the broken stud as the source.

I know you’re getting tired of my posts nick XD

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Fix your exhaust leak for God's sake. You have at least three other threads on that one issue yet AFAIK you haven't done anything about it. If you aren't in a position to yank the heads to remove the broken stud then at least install the clamp you bought. Here's a short video from Dorman that explains the process, in case you haven't seen it. Looks like it takes about a half hour or so to do and should eliminate it as the source of the 'ticking/tapping' noises. If you have already installed the clamp and confirmed that the exhaust leak has been fixed then continue reading.

My 2003 Tahoe has been making the exact same sounds heard in your first video above (as well as some of your other clips posted in other threads) for the past 10 years / 70k+ miles. It still runs/drives fine and I don't worry about it.

If yours starts running real rough, you smell fuel, major tapping, misfires, or other symptoms of a collapsed lifter, yank the heads and replace all the lifters (use OEM new or equally reputable manufacturers - don't cheap out!), lifter trays (OEM only), knock sensors (OEM only), set of head bolts (OEM TTY or ARP - I'd go ARP but that's my personal preference), gaskets and seals. Have the heads checked for warpage (you can do this yourself with a precision straight edge and .001-.003 feeler gauges) and gone through (new valves, hardware, springs, guides if needed, etc).

Did you have the dealership give you a transmission diagnosis while it was there?

Multiple threads on that as well so hopefully you had them do a complete diag work up so you now know exactly what's wrong with it (if anything).

Not at the dealership but at the local mechanic I paid for a transmission diagnosis. The dealership did diagnose my “exhaust tick” and about the local mechanic, I don’t think he even actually pulled it for the $50 fee. Bc how do you diagnose the trans without taking it apart. It doesn’t throw codes. It just shifts weird it seems until the temp of the trans reaches 140-180°F, it has a rough idle that I’ve been trying to fix. I’ve done everything from serp belt, maf sensor, throttle body etc next on my list is plugs and wires. And god forbid it’s the torque converter or something outlandish.
Battery and alternator passed tests, so those check out.


Is there any loose connections I can check for just to be sure? Perhaps the transmission wiring?

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

I will do that clamp some time when I get acess to a 3 ton Jack and some stands. Reliable Jacks aren’t cheap. Lately just haven’t had money to throw at my car.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Not at the dealership but at the local mechanic I paid for a transmission diagnosis. The dealership did diagnose my “exhaust tick” and about the local mechanic, I don’t think he even actually pulled it for the $50 fee. Bc how do you diagnose the trans without taking it apart. It doesn’t throw codes. It just shifts weird it seems until the temp of the trans reaches 140-180°F, it has a rough idle that I’ve been trying to fix. I’ve done everything from serp belt, maf sensor, throttle body etc next on my list is plugs and wires. And god forbid it’s the torque converter or something outlandish.
Battery and alternator passed tests, so those check out.


Is there any loose connections I can check for just to be sure? Perhaps the transmission wiring?

What exactly did the local mechanic do to diag the trans? Did he/they tell you?
At minimum, he should have taken it on a test drive w/a two way scanner to observe shifts being commanded and confirming they were actually happening. If nothing odd was seen on the scan tool but drivability symptoms were observed, he should have dropped the pan (confirmed w/you first to get the 'ok' if this meant the diag cost would go up), ohm'ed the solenoids, internal mode switch, pressure switches and speed sensors. If those all checked out, next step is to separate the valve body halves and test all the valve trains on the Sonnax tester (or tell you he doesn't have one and could not complete that part of the diagnosis and recommend you take it to a transmission shop for further investigation).

I will do that clamp some time when I get acess to a 3 ton Jack and some stands. Reliable Jacks aren’t cheap. Lately just haven’t had money to throw at my car.

I was just about to ask you why you think you need a jack and stands but decided to take a quick look under my hood to see if I could get to the rear dr side exhaust stud to install the clamp without having to take the wheel or exhaust off.

Low and behold I just 'discovered' that I also have a missing bolt/nut at that location!

Note the last bolt hole location - nothing's there.


For what it's worth, I also have no soot or other signs of leakage other than the tick sound - the same tick I hear in your video.

Again, I could be wrong (and its worth checking just to be sure as @wjburken suggested) but I don't think your flex plate is broken.
I think it's your missing stud/nut or bolt (or whatever the hell goes there).

I guess we both have clamps to install...

 

[wjburken]

Again, I could be wrong (and its worth checking just to be sure as @wjburken suggested) but I don't think your flex plate is broken.
I think it's your missing stud/nut or bolt (or whatever the hell goes there).

If nothing else, if he pulls that plug, he’ll be able to see the torque convertor and know for sure where it’s at.

 

[NickTransmissions]

If nothing else, if he pulls that plug, he’ll be able to see the torque convertor and know for sure where it’s at.

For sure, leave no stone unturned!

If it is the flex plate he just needs to yank the trans, put a new one on. Though I'd want to know if there was a harmonic in the engine or the converter or whatever that caused the flex plate to crack. Or perhaps one or more TC-flex plate bolts came loose. Happened to one of my customers a while back who replaced his TC thinking it would solve his transmission problems but failed to fully torque the bolts. They worked loose and cracked/broke the flex plate.

@iboughtatahoe23 - see if the noise is more pronounced on the side w/the missing stud vs the other side (unless that has missing studs also).

Mine is noticably louder on the driver side where the missing stud is.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

If nothing else, if he pulls that plug, he’ll be able to see the torque convertor and know for sure where it’s at.

Where is it located ?

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

What exactly did the local mechanic do to diag the trans? Did he/they tell you?
At minimum, he should have taken it on a test drive w/a two way scanner to observe shifts being commanded and confirming they were actually happening. If nothing odd was seen on the scan tool but drivability symptoms were observed, he should have dropped the pan (confirmed w/you first to get the 'ok' if this meant the diag cost would go up), ohm'ed the solenoids, internal mode switch, pressure switches and speed sensors. If those all checked out, next step is to separate the valve body halves and test all the valve trains on the Sonnax tester (or tell you he doesn't have one and could not complete that part of the diagnosis and recommend you take it to a transmission shop for further investigation).


I was just about to ask you why you think you need a jack and stands but decided to take a quick look under my hood to see if I could get to the rear dr side exhaust stud to install the clamp without having to take the wheel or exhaust off.

Low and behold I just 'discovered' that I also have a missing bolt/nut at that location!

Note the last bolt hole location - nothing's there.
View attachment 402795

For what it's worth, I also have no soot or other signs of leakage other than the tick sound - the same tick I hear in your video.

Again, I could be wrong (and its worth checking just to be sure as @wjburken suggested) but I don't think your flex plate is broken.
I think it's your missing stud/nut or bolt (or whatever the hell goes there).

I guess we both have clamps to install...

So dealership didn’t do the diagnosis, I went to two different local mechanics and one took a ride with me and didn’t use any computer. Just rode along and said nothings wrong. And second mechanic claimed he drove around in it and it felt fine…. And about the stud. So if it doesn’t cover any thing that makes me more worried,,, the noise is coming from the transmission pan area or like the torque converter area.

 

[NickTransmissions]

So if it doesn’t cover any thing that makes me more worried,,,

What do you mean by this?

What are you really "afraid" of?

 

[wjburken]

Where is it located ?

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

For sure, leave no stone unturned!

If it is the flex plate he just needs to yank the trans, put a new one on. Though I'd want to know if there was a harmonic in the engine or the converter or whatever that caused the flex plate to crack. Or perhaps one or more TC-flex plate bolts came loose. Happened to one of my customers a while back who replaced his TC thinking it would solve his transmission problems but failed to fully torque the bolts. They worked loose and cracked/broke the flex plate.

@iboughtatahoe23 - see if the noise is more pronounced on the side w/the missing stud vs the other side (unless that has missing studs also).

Mine is noticably louder on the driver side where the missing stud is.

The noise actually comes from the opposite side of the broken stud, under the car and comes towards the middle under the car vs the top side of the engine bay where the stud is actually broken, no noise from that area.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

What do you mean by this?

What are you really "afraid" of?

Bc if it’s not even covering anything like you had mentioned, ( the broken stud)
Then what would be making noise? Hopefully not flexplate.


Also, is there anything I should be concerned about when taking off that plug? Can I break anything if I’m not careful?

 

[NickTransmissions]

Bc if it’s not even covering anything like you had mentioned, ( the broken stud)
Then what would be making noise? Hopefully not flexplate.


Also, is there anything I should be concerned about when taking off that plug? Can I break anything if I’m not careful?

The stud/nut clamps the manifold to the cylinder head on the right side of the exhaust port so if there's nothing clamping it down, it will leak exhaust gasses and tick.

Check your other bolts/nuts on the exhaust manifolds and make sure none are loose or fill a spray bottle with soapy water. Spray the solution over the manifolds and look for bubbles. If bubbles appear, you've found the leak(s).

Inspection cover - You won't break it unless you're real rough w/it. Take a small flat blade screwdriver and pry out the inspection cover, shine a flashlight to look for any cracks. You'll need to rotate the engine over by hand (ratchet and socket on the crank bolt) so you can see the entirety of the flex plate.

If it's the flex plate (and I'm hoping it's not because I'll look like a complete dumbass; @wjburken will look genius and good on him for calling it), you'll need to yank the trans and replace it. Buy new torque converter and flex plate-to-crank bolts.

If the sound is coming from the transmission itself, the only things I can think of that would cause it are the pump (could be but not likely - when these start whining or making noise, they fail very shortly thereafter the noise first appears) or the pinion gear needle bearings in one or both planetary carrier assemblies (more likely this than the pump but still not high on my list of suspects). If it was converter, you'd likely know it as there'd be unmistakable drivability symptoms (shuddering, loss of power, 'grinding' or 'galling' type noises) then converter failure shortly thereafter.

FWIW, unless the sound in the vid in your earlier post is not representative of what you're actually hearing in person, it sounds identical to the ticking sound my Tahoe makes and like I said earlier, it's been nothing more than a mild annoyance at worst in the past 10 years (that stud in the above pic has been broken since I bought the truck in 2013).

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

The stud/nut clamps the manifold to the cylinder head on the right side of the exhaust port so if there's nothing clamping it down, it will leak exhaust gasses and tick.

Check your other bolts/nuts on the exhaust manifolds and make sure none are loose or fill a spray bottle with soapy water. Spray the solution over the manifolds and look for bubbles. If bubbles appear, you've found the leak(s).

Inspection cover - You won't break it unless you're real rough w/it. Take a small flat blade screwdriver and pry out the inspection cover, shine a flashlight to look for any cracks. You'll need to rotate the engine over by hand (ratchet and socket on the crank bolt) so you can see the entirety of the flex plate.

If it's the flex plate (and I'm hoping it's not because I'll look like a complete dumbass; @wjburken will look genius and good on him for calling it), you'll need to yank the trans and replace it. Buy new torque converter and flex plate-to-crank bolts.

If the sound is coming from the transmission itself, the only things I can think of that would cause it are the pump (could be but not likely - when these start whining or making noise, they fail very shortly thereafter the noise first appears) or the pinion gear needle bearings in one or both planetary carrier assemblies (more likely this than the pump but still not high on my list of suspects). If it was converter, you'd likely know it as there'd be unmistakable drivability symptoms (shuddering, loss of power, 'grinding' or 'galling' type noises) then converter failure shortly thereafter.

FWIW, unless the sound in the vid in your earlier post is not representative of what you're actually hearing in person, it sounds identical to the ticking sound my Tahoe makes and like I said earlier, it's been nothing more than a mild annoyance at worst in the past 10 years (that stud in the above pic has been broken since I bought the truck in 2013).

So you’re saying you have a tick like me?
And I’ll add that I’ve heard many noises, but none are consistent, and they have all come and gone.

I’ve had one really rough shift in first gear and that was when it was really cold out and I just took off from cold start

Any transmission or shifting problems seem to only happen when the transmission is cold and not up to operating temperatures. Which makes me think maybe it’s because all the fluid is sitting at the bottom of the pan when I let it sit overnight and then when I start in the morning, it takes a second to get that fluid all around again?

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

I mean, if it was really that catastrophic her bad, I would have to have some sort of DTC or engine code right?