Sorry, I didn't realize there was a contest to see who could be the most unhelpful *****! You win!! Since you were unable to comprehend the original post, let me review it for you. The codes are a symptom and not the actual problem. Also, the problem only manifests on long trips and everything is fine (i.e. no codes to diagnose) when driving around town. My option is to diagnose and fix the problem on my own, or wait until I'm in a serious bind in the middle of a trip and then delay my trip so a mechanic I'm completely unfamiliar with can try to diagnose the problem. Neither of those is acceptable, so I thought I would start on the forum where people are familiar with the issues. Now you are free to go suck the fun out of someone else's day!
You got the first word right, "sorry" as it explains just about everything anyone needs to know about you. I'm also glad I wasn't helpful to you as doing so would encourage you to continue down your path of ignorance.
By all means you should replace every single part anyone mentions on this thread, be sure to buy the most expensive ones first so you can drain your wallet quickly... after all parts store guys gotta eat as well.
I always find it amazing how people who obviously don't know their butt from a lugnut believe they know better how to repair a vehicle problem than a professional with proper equipment.
To help you feel better I'll make a suggestion, change the air in all five tires, it's possible you have low altitude winter air in them while driving at higher altitudes in warm weather. Be sure to completely evacuate the air using a vacuum pump before refilling the tires.
Then change out the fuel pump because it's likely malfunctioning when it gets hot.... nevermind that the fuel pump is submerged in gallons of fuel and likely doesn't see much of a change in temperature over the course of an ordinary drive... But of course spend $300 + on a fuel pump.
Then change the MAF, they're only a couple hundred dollars and you might be able to DIY.... Of course there's no point in considering that the diagnostic codes you saw don't place a malfunctioning MAF anywhere near the top of the list, if it even appears on the chart at all.
Might as well replace the 1/1 O2 sensor as well since there's a code for it. Hell, don't sweat the thought that the O2 in place might be telling the truth, replace it because it's easy. While we're replacing easy stuff... plug in a new set of headlights too, they're really easy. not even requiring any tools.
Let's toss in some spark plugs and the rest of the Secondary Ignition parts, because you might be capable of unscrewing 8 plugs without too much of a mental challenge.
When you're done with that, change out the crank sensor. No actual diagnostic reasoning behind it, but you already have established that the only important basis for replacement is someone suggested it online.
Maybe the TCC solemoid too... just because it's expensive.
Your issue is that you don't know what you don't know and have no idea how much is in that grouping of ignorance. You should by all means do it your way, it's your truck and your money.
Back when I was turning pages and wrenches I loved people like you because I made lots of money. First thing you would be paying me to do is to recheck everything you did to assure that it was right and the cut rate part you bought performs properly. That's usually a couple of labor hours booked to get to where we should have started. Then I can get to work on the problem.
A skilled Technician with proper tools and information at hand could probably diagnose your problem within an hour. YOU set the limitation on what he can do to diagnose the issue in your ignorant comment. Your limitation is yours, not his. Interfacing with the ECU in your truck can provide a bunch more information than simply codes... but by all means do it your way.
My guess is that the problem can be diagnosed in less than an hour, my experience and knowledge steers me in a direction to check that makes perfect sense. But I wouldn't follow that path unless I could verify the diagnosis because a reputable mechanic tries to make the necessary repair without needless expense for his customer.
Good luck with your problem and in repairing your truck; when you get to $1500 and it's still not fixed... bite the bullet and pay someone who knows what he's doing.
