Suburban 2500

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intheburbs

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This is slightly off-topic, but 2015+ you can buy a Suburban 3500HD as long as it's for a fleet. There aren't many out there, but occasionally you can find one on cargurus or similar.

It's no longer being made, was only for fleet buyers (an individual could not purchase one new), was made in extremely low numbers, and is extremely expensive. Sticker price started at $85k, and the few used ones that have trickled into the market have prices around $40k-$50k, unless they had a ton of miles on them.

My theory is that Secret Service needed to update/revamp their fleet, and asked GM to make the 3500. GM figured they could get some ancillary sales in the commercial fleet market, so they made it available. But the primary customer was the fedgov. No other reason explains a 4000+ payload rating and a 3,000-lb trailer tow rating.

Would be cool if it also had dually fenders and a duramax engine :naughty:

Duraburb just built a 3500 with the L5P diesel. Sorry for the FB link, couldn't find the video anywhere else...

 

07Burb

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99c9233b32dd33b4d6119068b61d7926.jpg


^^^ this but new rig
 

OR VietVet

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That is nice lookin' except for the hood cowl/scoop. I have never liked the looks of a hood like that.
 
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puckhead

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Okay, two random questions. I like the thought of the 2500 so far.

With a proper roof rack, how much weight can the roof hold? I'm wondering if a small kids ATV would fit up there nicely.

Also, with the 2013 6.0, would it take a supercharger well? Don't know if I would ever do it but it's nice to dream!
 

intheburbs

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IIRC, the owner's manual for mine says 200 lbs on the roof.

Yes, the 6.0 is a good engine for forced induction.
 

RTLINGR2

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So my 04 2500 is 4x4, has 6.0 with a 4l80e. 3.73's with a 275/60r17 tire and about 190k on it. Its an LT with a bunch of options.

It averages about 11 to 12mpg. I do tow periodically but its mostly my wife's daily .My cats were plugged so i gutted them. I need to tune to delete codes for cats and rear o2's. When i clear codes with a scan tool it picks up a little fuel mileage. I also converted to e-fans. A/c performance is much better now with idle, traffic, and Florida heat. Something i noticed on mine that i haven't seen on the 1/2 tons is more fuel capacity. Mine has a large side tank and a secondary tank between the spare tire and cargo floor. I have about 38 gallon total capacity. When you top it off with fuel then get out on highway the fuel range keeps increasing for a while. When the gauge does finally start to drop I think its no longer on rear tank and on the side tank. Then you can watch the gauge continously drop.

As far as the roof rack, I'm not sure if would put a kids 4 wheeler up there. It may hold it but i would use a cargo carrier out of the hitch first, less weight to lift over your head. Im not sure on the later models but from 00 to 06 the Z71 equipped 1/2 ton racks seem to be little more stout than the non Z71. The Z71 has roller bar in the rear most bow and and i believe extra bows as well that the standard rack does not have. The roller make things easier to put long items on the roof like a ladder or kayaks. I'm not sure if a 2500 is offered with Z71 package, but something I'm looking at doing is converting over to the Z71 rack.

Another member mentioned Duraburb. Eric is the owner is a super nice guy to talk with. He is located in Apopka, Fl. He specializes in Duramax conversions into Suburbans. Everything is integrated in, all systems work, and looks like it came from the factory with the Duramax. There are a lot of You Tube videos from Duraburb. Been a while since I have looked up the website. Not sure how much info is on there for cost. But again real easy to talk to. He has always done conversations to go with the times. When you Google it, it links to a FB page.
 
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puckhead

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Thanks guys! Good to know they would take a supercharger.

Thanks also for the information on the roof rack. I figured the ATV is around 400 pounds. I always see overland guys with huge rooftop tents and a tone of other gear up there. Thought I would ask. I was thinking way down the line if I find a camper and wanted to bring one of the kids 4 wheelers with.

I will also check out the Duraburb but I think it is probably out of my price range.
 
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puckhead

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What do you guys think of the 2008-2013 with higher mileage? Does this version handle miles well?
 

intheburbs

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What do you guys think of the 2008-2013 with higher mileage? Does this version handle miles well?

Well I can offer one data point...

I bought my 2008 2500 in 2013 with 106k miles.

I drive it hard, and beat the crap out of it towing - heavy travel trailers, into the Rocky Mountains. Probably 20k miles of towing at max GCWR (16,000 lbs). On one trip, I was spinning the engine so fast for engine braking - 6k rpm - that I spun the A/C belt off its pulley without breaking it. I also drove for Uber for a while, probably 1000 trips.

It now has 202k miles, is still all-original, and dead-nuts reliable. I haven't even had to change the brake pads.

I wouldn't hesitate to load up the family, hitch up the behemoth and take a 5000-mile road trip to Yellowstone.

I've also spent about $300 in repairs over the last 7 years. Total.
 
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puckhead

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Well I can offer one data point...

I bought my 2008 2500 in 2013 with 106k miles.

I drive it hard, and beat the crap out of it towing - heavy travel trailers, into the Rocky Mountains. Probably 20k miles of towing at max GCWR (16,000 lbs). On one trip, I was spinning the engine so fast for engine braking - 6k rpm - that I spun the A/C belt off its pulley without breaking it. I also drove for Uber for a while, probably 1000 trips.

It now has 202k miles, is still all-original, and dead-nuts reliable. I haven't even had to change the brake pads.

I wouldn't hesitate to load up the family, hitch up the behemoth and take a 5000-mile road trip to Yellowstone.

I've also spent about $300 in repairs over the last 7 years. Total.

Well, that's pretty damn good! Sounds like these motors are pretty good. I am still looking around but the more affordable ones are fairly high miles. Mid 100's to just under 200k. There's a few with less but the cost is more. Just looking for the perfect one right now.
 

calsdad

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Not sure I understand what you mean by what kind, @wjburken

As for year, I guess the newer the better. Just looking for something that can haul a good amount but is still good on the highway ride wise. Not looking for economy lol.

The 8.1L with 4.10's sounds like fun!

I had a 2003 Suburban 2500 with the 6.0L gas engine. I now have a 2010 GMC Yukon XL 2500 with the 6.0L gas engine. I thought the 2003 actually rode better than my 2010 - but that could have been because it had Michelin tires. The L96 6.0L gas engine in the 2010 has more power than the 6.0L that was in my 2003.

I never really paid much attention to the fuel economy in the 2003, but the 2010 does about 14mpg - with mostly highway miles. I tend to drive about 75 mph all the time though.

The 2003 truck was a definite rust bucket - so far - the 2010 seems better. There were a number of improvements in regards to rust mitigation on the 2010 that didn't exist in the 2003. The fuel lines, brake lines - etc - are all coated on the 2010. They weren't on the 2003 - and they ALL rusted out on my truck. A good part of the reason why I got rid of the 2003 - was that the thing had gotten to the point where it was either going to need a LOT of work to keep it from completely rusting out - so I decided to sell and get a truck from the next gen. I liked the 2007-2013 body style better anyway.

One thing the 2003 did better I think than the 2010 - was the the second row seats on the 2003 folded flat - they don't on the 2010. This made the 2003 a little bit better for hauling pieces of plywood than the 2010 is.

The frame and suspension on the 2003 and 2010 truck are pretty much EXACTLY the same. The frame carried over from the 2003 generation to the 2010 generation. So parts are somewhat interchangeable.

As somebody already mentioned in this thread - the GMT800 (2000-2006) trucks with the 8.1L engine - had a 12,000 pound tow rating. That means the frame is good for towing 12,000 pounds. The sticker on the door will not say 12,000 pounds unless you've got the 8.1L engine, but the frame is good for it.

I think this is important to keep in mind - because the hitches on the GMT800 and GMT900 trucks are barely good for the "normal" tow rating of 9900 pounds IMHO. If you look thru a number of the GM forums and some trailer towing forums - you're going to find people complaining about the factory hitch on the GMT800 trucks actually ripping off the truck. I swapped over hitch on my 2003 over to a 16k rated hitch. On my 2010 I built a custom 16K hitch for it - because nobody specifically made a "standard" style frame mount larger capacity hitch. ( the factory hitch is in the bumper reinforcement bar).

Why do I mention all of this? Because IMHO the tow ratings of the 2500 is cut back somewhat from it's true capabilities. As I said - the frame is good for 12K. If you look at a 2500 series pickup truck from say 2010, the trailering capacity of an crew cab/long box is 12,400 pounds - with the exact same drivetrain that is in the 2500 series SUV.

So my opinion is - based on looking at ALL of the various ratings of the different mechanicals with the 2007-2013 2500 Suburban/Yukon XL's - is that they're probably capable of towing 12,000 pounds.

The door sticker just doesn't say it. And therefore it wouldn't be "legal".

Depending on what state you live in - there's always the possibility of doing a diesel conversion. If you were ever going to think of doing that - I'd go for a GMT900 truck.
 

calsdad

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Well I can offer one data point...

I bought my 2008 2500 in 2013 with 106k miles.

I drive it hard, and beat the crap out of it towing - heavy travel trailers, into the Rocky Mountains. Probably 20k miles of towing at max GCWR (16,000 lbs). On one trip, I was spinning the engine so fast for engine braking - 6k rpm - that I spun the A/C belt off its pulley without breaking it. I also drove for Uber for a while, probably 1000 trips.

It now has 202k miles, is still all-original, and dead-nuts reliable. I haven't even had to change the brake pads.

I wouldn't hesitate to load up the family, hitch up the behemoth and take a 5000-mile road trip to Yellowstone.

I've also spent about $300 in repairs over the last 7 years. Total.


One of the things I didn't like in either my 2003 - or the 2010 - was the braking. In the 2003 I upgraded all the brakes when I had to do them over with cryo-treated rotors and the best Hawk pads I could find. That made definite improvement.

On the 2010 - when it came time to do the brakes over - I did a serious upgrade and installed Wilwood 16" rotors with 6 piston fixed calipers. That made a definite improvement in the braking. But I've been driving this truck a lot in rush hour traffic and had a few close calls with people cutting me off and then jamming on their brakes.
 

calsdad

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The last year for the 2500 Burb was 2013 - they are getting hard to come by - most came with a 6.0


Pretty sure that ALL of the 2500 series Suburbans and Yukon XLs came with the 6.0L gas engine. On the later trucks (I think after 2009) - this was the L96 engine. I can't remember what the model number was of the 6.0L engine in the earlier model years.
 

calsdad

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This is slightly off-topic, but 2015+ you can buy a Suburban 3500HD as long as it's for a fleet. There aren't many out there, but occasionally you can find one on cargurus or similar.

The factory tow ratings on those are abysmal. Not sure exactly why - because with the 3500 designation it should be able to tow well.
 

calsdad

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What do you guys think of the 2008-2013 with higher mileage? Does this version handle miles well?

Look at the condition of the body and frame. As long as it's not very rusty - all the rest of the mechanical stuff can be fixed.

At 120K miles so far the drivetrain on my 2010 has been great. No problems at all.

I rebuilt the front suspension completely about 15k miles ago because it was starting to wander on the highway and was getting annoying to drive on longer trips. After the rebuild it made a big difference.
 
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rzabel

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I think this is important to keep in mind - because the hitches on the GMT800 and GMT900 trucks are barely good for the "normal" tow rating of 9900 pounds IMHO. If you look thru a number of the GM forums and some trailer towing forums - you're going to find people complaining about the factory hitch on the GMT800 trucks actually ripping off the truck. I swapped over hitch on my 2003 over to a 16k rated hitch. On my 2010 I built a custom 16K hitch for it - because nobody specifically made a "standard" style frame mount larger capacity hitch. ( the factory hitch is in the bumper reinforcement bar).

I hadn't heard that about the hitches, but always wondered just from looking at it. It definitely looks like the weak link. I put a Curt front receiver on mine and it looks beefier than the factory hitch on the rear. I think I'll look into an upgrade there, thanks.
 

norcalboon

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Well, that's pretty damn good! Sounds like these motors are pretty good. I am still looking around but the more affordable ones are fairly high miles. Mid 100's to just under 200k. There's a few with less but the cost is more. Just looking for the perfect one right now.


You and a bunch of others - especially now that everyone is camping, if you find a good one act fast!
 

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