Steering Wheel out of alignment all of a sudden/Do Rack and Pinions go out on these?

[Akinshake]

2016 Yukon XL Denali 4wd 102k miles
After searching through the threads i couldn't find anything like my problem. I made a 200 mile round trip this weekend, and the first half of it went smooth. I was pulling a utility trailer with about 2k pounds, not sure if that matters but worth noting. Halfway home, i stop for gas, no longer have the trailer attached for the return trip, and as soon as i get back on the road my steering wheel is no longer centered. I did hear a slight pop while in the parking lot, kinda sounds like a front axle when turning tightly in 4wd. Another note, i did drive earlier in 4wd auto as there was still some snow, ice and slush on the roads here in Tennessee/Kentucky. But when i heard the noise, i was in 2wd. I did get out and check for anything being loose, and did not find anything out of the ordinary. Drove the rest of the way home fine, just steering wheel was off. i didn't hit any thing so i don't know what the deal is. took it to Pep Boys, I have a lifetime alignment plan with them. they said as soon as they aligned it, it started pulling again so they kept it another night so that a master tech can look at it.

Do rack and pinions go out on these? thats the only thing i can think of at this time.

 

[Doubeleive]

tie rods, controls arms are what affect alignment in general, avoid pep boys at all cost's (word to the wise) but since you already paid for that particular service.....

 

[Akinshake]

The master tech said it was a driver side upper control arm bushing. The popping and awful steering has gotten progressively worse. I’m going to change all the control arm bushings, away bar bushings, probably ball joints depending what tools I need. Since I just rolled 100k I’m going to do plugs, belt, check diff and t case fluids. What else would y’all recommend?

 

[swathdiver]

The master tech said it was a driver side upper control arm bushing. The popping and awful steering has gotten progressively worse. I’m going to change all the control arm bushings, away bar bushings, probably ball joints depending what tools I need. Since I just rolled 100k I’m going to do plugs, belt, check diff and t case fluids. What else would y’all recommend?

The upper control arms are not rebuildable, you can rebuild the lower control arms. It is not common but the two bushings for the rack can wear out and need replacing too. One of the guys on here did it a couple of years ago. If you pull on the rack, the whole thing should not have much if any movement in it. Of course the inner and outer tie rods can wear out but those things usually last much longer. Tolerance is .5mm for tie rods. 1mm for upper and lower ball joints.

 

[OR VietVet]

Upper and lower complete arms, tie rods, sway bar frame bushings and links. Make sure to check the axles up there.

Plugs, belt(s), change the fluids-don't just check them. 100k on all fluids? Brake fluid, diff fluids, transfer case, coolant and power steering.

What does your owners manual say to do at the 90k to 100k intervals?

 

[swathdiver]

Upper and lower complete arms, tie rods, sway bar frame bushings and links. Make sure to check the axles up there.

Plugs, belt(s), change the fluids-don't just check them. 100k on all fluids? Brake fluid, diff fluids, transfer case, coolant and power steering.

What does your owners manual say to do at the 90k to 100k intervals?

More like 45K, we're just about all in the severe service category especially the K2 transmissions!

 

[OR VietVet]

Yea, I was just assuming he had done SOME maintenance up to this point and I have never ever recommended or followed the "normal" maintenance schedule, always the "severe" duty schedule.

 

[swathdiver]

Yea, I was just assuming he had done SOME maintenance up to this point and I have never ever recommended or followed the "normal" maintenance schedule, always the "severe" duty schedule.

I know you do Ron, just making light of things.

 

[Akinshake]

The upper control arms are not rebuildable, you can rebuild the lower control arms. It is not common but the two bushings for the rack can wear out and need replacing too. One of the guys on here did it a couple of years ago. If you pull on the rack, the whole thing should not have much if any movement in it. Of course the inner and outer tie rods can wear out but those things usually last much longer. Tolerance is .5mm for tie rods. 1mm for upper and lower ball joints.

Awesome. Thanks. Do you recommend a good replacement upper control arm?

 

[Doubeleive]

Awesome. Thanks. Do you recommend a good replacement upper control arm?

oem, and at 100k it's time to do all (4) 02 sensors also recommend oem on those as well I think rock auto has the best price last time I checked
power steering flush, brake flush, differential fluid front & rear if 4wd/awd & transfer case, check your shocks, check your brake calipers for leaks/sticking, sway bar end links front & rear.
other things to consider heater-hose's & "T's", coolant reservoir, radiator, inspect your water pump from underneath, look over all the wiring looms and hoses in the engine bay, the alternator to battery cable tends to sag over time and rub on the intake so do other wires, lift them and feel them underneath for notches or wear and adjust as needed.
clean the maf and throttle body, all I can think of at the moment. trans as others already noted
forgot this a k2xx disregard power steering fluid you have electric steering, inspect the serpentine and ac belt, vacuum pump belt.

 

[swathdiver]

Awesome. Thanks. Do you recommend a good replacement upper control arm?

GM OE, not ACDelco Gold/Professional which are Moog CK Series. Either would be my second choice though.

 

[Kraftworthy]

I had a brand new tundra that the steering wheel kept going out of alignment on. Dealership kept saying there was nothing wrong with it and kept giving it an alignment. It was a monthly ordeal. I eventually sold it back to them.

 

[Akinshake]

Well, found and fixed my problem. The first time I took the tires off, the ball joint wasn’t visibly loose, and as you can see my ball joint completely failed and was only still in because of the weight of the car holding it in place. Replaced both sides upper control arms. Needs another alignment but should be all good now. Replaced them with factory GM control arms. 103k miles.

 

[BeenChevy]

That'll do it. Glad you're still here to post.

At about the same mileage and checking off the list here as well. Rockauto had a good price on gates belts (complete kit) that includes the tensioner. Make sure get a belt installation tool if you don't already have one. I used a zip-tie for the AC belt. Don't forget to check u-joints, mine in the rear where due. Was going to say shocks but looks like you've already swapped. You still running air in the rear? I think mine are leaking, haven't fully diagnosed yet.