Starting issue when warm

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Skizzot

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Just swapped the old 5.3 for another one with 44k miles. (Cylinder 6 had a small nut grenade in it following an intake manifold gasket job. Apparently the nut was just sitting in one of the extremely deep pits between 6 and 8 in the manifold and popped in number 6 upon sliding the manifold out. It completely destroyed everything in that cylinder, including taking out the spark plug threads.)

The swap was completed Friday, but now there is an ignition issue. Once the engine is warm it requires 8 to 10 revolutions before starting and helps to slightly depress the gas pedal. Once started there is no fluctuation in the idle or any other issue with exception of a possible slight miss. If no pressure is applied to the gas pedal, it will eventually start and the RPMs will be at about 300. For example, it was 32 degrees this morning and it fired strong within a split second of turning the key. Once I stopped at church and got back in, it had to turn over 8 times before firing with a little assistance from depressing the gas pedal.

Since it's a warm ignition problem, I was thinking of an issue with the coolant temperature sensor. My theory being that the engine thinks it's cold, dumps extra fuel, and floods the engine which would explain the great start-ups when cold. The fuel pump is new and there were no issues with that prior to the swap. I'm not sure if the IAC, MAP, MAF, etc., would cause such a problem. Please give your thoughts/experience before I start troubleshooting everything under the hood. Somebody ran off with my volt meter, so I guess I will need to buy another one of those and get the ohms specs for each sensor.
 

ATL

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check your fuel pressure, sounds like the check valve. does it help if you prime the pump a few times before turning it over?
 
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Skizzot

Skizzot

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^ Are you referring to the fuel pressure relief valve?
 

ATL

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no, im referring to the valve that holds fuel pressure in the line once the pump has been turned off. that delay at start up is prob the pump pressurizing the lines again
 
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Skizzot

Skizzot

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Chilton and AllData have been no help in pin pointing the valve you are referring to. I would assume that it must be on the fuel rail though. I cycled the pump three times before starting and after two revolutions it cranked with the idle RPM going from 200 to 900 to 300 to 800 to 400 then settled at 500 for normal operation without further fluctuation. (I'm sitting in the E.R. with a friend so I'll be cruising on the hospital's Wi-Fi all night.)
 

LI99HOE

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Definitely sounds like a problematic foot valve. Pretty common thing. It's located on the pump ass'y itself. Not sure if it's avail separately, and since you have to drop the tank, and pull the pump to replace it if it is.... might as well do the entire pump/sending ass'y.
 

ATL

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it does sound like the pump, mine did that for a year and a half before failing. but once it started failing, the rpms would flutter like you mentioned. go to the autoparts store and borrow(or buy if necessary, $30) a fuel pressure gauge. remove the plastic covers over the engine. take a fuel pressure reading from the shrader valve on the passenger side of intake, about mid way front to back. when your pressure is low the motor surges, when i checked mine, i had 20 psi. your truck is suppose to have 50-55. check that and let us know what you find.

oh yea, that check valve is inside the assembly itself as mentioned above. also i bought a complete acdelco assembly last week from advance auto for $298. also do a fuel filter while messing with it, acdelco was $25
 

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