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Basically be the same as a 1500 series truck has anyone successfully completed it? Trying to get a little inside on what axle works best and what's all needed for the swap, once complete I'll be selling my rough country lift.
I have done many SAS on Toyota trucks and SUVs and also have worked on Jeep Wranglers and Cherokees for a longgg time.
What I can tell you is: DO NOT start until you have every single nut and bolt and have a well thought out plan. Too many times have I seen an SAS go wrong due to bad planning and not enough money to continue on the project.
Now that you have all of the smaller parts, What you'll need is:
-Drivers side drop D44 that shares the same lug nut pattern as stock. I say a Dana 44 just because you'll be able to find WMS-WMS widths that will be close to the 10 bolt width.
-Depending on how old the axle is, you may need to buy new lockout hubs, gears, bearings, seals, balljoints, etc.
-I highly suggest going with coilovers if you want to still drive it on the street and be comfortable. Therefore, You'll need to buy/fabricate a proper link system. 3 link with panhard works very well. Remember that the panhard bar MUST be the same length as the drag link to avoid any bumpsteer.
-A new steering system. You'll have to get a steering box from a SA truck so that it can handle the weight of the SUV and handle the duty (the last thing you want is for your steering fluid to overheat and loose steering!!!)
Note: Hydro-Assist and Full Hydro steering systems are illegal to use on the road.
The procedure:
-Get an oxyacetylene or plasma torch to cut ALL of the IFS stuff off.
-Remove the diff and CV axles
-Prep frame for welding
-Use PVC piping to get your link geometry correct instead of wasting hundreds of dollars on DOM sticks.
-Use Johnny Joints, or of the like. NEVER use heims on an on-road vehicle.
-Sway-Away, King, Walker Evans, Radflo, Fox Racing are all terrific coilover companies. Make sure you get the valving, spring rate and length of travel correct.
-You'll probably have to get another front driveshaft made.
I have only broken the surface of an solid axle swap, but as long as you have done your research, you should be fine. Good Luck!
Let me go ahead and add I have a 4l80e swap I can run drivers side or pass side differential due to no electronic trans case or sensors in my trans case, my Denali was awd from factory. That's long since been changed with a manual shift case. That alone widens my search 80% for a front end, I really want a dana 60 however dana 44 I guess will suffice. I also want to run 8lug since I have a 14bolt from a H2 already and I have 8 lug wheels.
the cheapest front axle that would also be good would be the 79 F 250 8 lug Dana 44 hi pinion front axle