Restoring/Upgrading 2011 Tahoe PPV

[techbiker]

I made some progress today:

1. I filled up the coolant. There does not appear to be any trapped air.

2. After testing, my motor mounts appear to be good.

3. Discovered that my HP power steering hose and one of the AT cooler hoses is leaking. I have ordered a new HP power steering hose and will keep an eye on the AT cooler hose.

4. Dropped and cleaned my AT pan (see attached). The pan was coated with a thin layer of black grime and the magnet was coated with metal mush. Going to install a new filter and reinstall the pan tomorrow.

5. I am getting a bit of vibration at idle. Since it isn't caused by a bad motor mount, I bet that one of the fuel injectors is dripping. I will probably place an order for a new set of AC Delco fuel injectors. No reason to risk flooding out the oil.

Tomorrow, I will begin work on the suspension! New struts, end links, etc. on the way.

 

[CobraKing]

@techbiker The pre-cleaning pictures of your transmission pan are quite good, nothing to worry about with it despite the shavings and grime. The ATF colour would be considered 'normal' for the mileage & age.

Have you replaced that shift linkage bushing yet? Curious about that part as my truck has way higher mileage and I'd like to know if it's worthwhile doing.

As before your notes and pictures are greatly appreciated.

 

[techbiker]

@techbiker The pre-cleaning pictures of your transmission pan are quite good, nothing to worry about with it despite the shavings and grime. The ATF colour would be considered 'normal' for the mileage & age.

Have you replaced that shift linkage bushing yet? Curious about that part as my truck has way higher mileage and I'd like to know if it's worthwhile doing.

As before your notes and pictures are greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the feedback. I hope that people benefit from some of my updates. For a bit of background, I am performing all of this maintenance on jack stands in a garage without much fancy equipment. Let me know if you have any questions.

-I haven't replaced the shift linkage bushing yet. I wanted to get the AT service out of the way first (just in case I have to order more AT fluid). I do feel a bit of play in the old bushing. As long as the job is simple, I would probably go ahead and replace it on a truck with much higher mileage.

 

[jmm121783]

heck yea I really like this thread as well....I just picked up my 115k 3918 engine hours Tahoe about a month ago. I went through it like you but still need to get down to the nitty gritty like the rest of fluids I haven't changed; Auto Trans Fluid/Filter, Rear end/differential oil, brake fluid, coolant and I'd like to do the spark plugs for piece of mind. Do these trucks have a fuel filter? If so I need to do that as well.

Also what do you think about changing the front pumpkin oil? what about the transfer case?

 

[techbiker]

heck yea I really like this thread as well....I just picked up my 115k 3918 engine hours Tahoe about a month ago. I went through it like you but still need to get down to the nitty gritty like the rest of fluids I haven't changed; Auto Trans Fluid/Filter, Rear end/differential oil, brake fluid, coolant and I'd like to do the spark plugs for piece of mind. Do these trucks have a fuel filter? If so I need to do that as well.

Also what do you think about changing the front pumpkin oil? what about the transfer case?

Hi Joe,

I would change all of the fluids you mentioned, especially with 115k on the odometer. I would assume that your differential, coolant, and AT have not been serviced if you don't know. If your brake fluid is dark, I would change it too. You may want to grease your chassis as well. Definitely change your spark plugs and wires if they are original. I don't have a front transfer case so I'm not sure. I can check in the manual if I get a minute this weekend. The fuel filter appears to be inside the gas tank so it appears tough to service. Probably no reason to change the filter unless you are having problems with your fuel pressure. Good luck! Post pictures of your old fluids/ drain pan and covers if you get a chance.

Updates:

Yesterday:

I finished my AT service. I ended up adding 5-3/4 quarts of new fluid. Make sure to check your AT fluid level while the engine is running, even if you are checking the "cold" level. I also could not remove the AT filter seal easily so I left it in when I changed the filter. The filter seemed to seat well.

Today:

I began repairing the suspension (finishing the rear). The process went fairly smoothly, however I ran into some quirks:

-The top bolts for the rear shocks are not welded to the frame. I had to use a 6" extension to reach the bolt head on the inside of the frame. This was a bit of a time sink.

-The Monroe front top strut mounts did NOT fit. The 3 top mount bolts are longer (and thinner) than OEM. The longer bolts kept me from angling the new assembly into place. These were Monroe's recommended mounts for the 2011 Tahoe without active suspension. I have ordered some ACDelco mounts. If these have the same issue, I will cut off the end of one of the top mount bolts to give me enough clearance.

-Neither the top mount kits or front struts come with lower spring insulators. Make sure to have a pair on hand before starting work. You can get them separately from Moog.

Some other observations:

-The rubber on my front end links is rotten. I measured the center spacers and determined them to be 3-3/8" long. Autozone recommends end links with a 3" long center spacer (too short). I plan to replace them with Energy Suspension end links intended for a 1988 Monte Carlo. Are the front end links unique to the PPV?

-I plan to perform the final tightening on my suspension components with the truck on the ground to eliminate any bushing pre-load.

-The old front right and rear right struts provide similar resistance to new struts when compressed. The rear left has clearly failed though because it takes very little force to compress and produces a strange squishing noise. I will check the front left when I receive my new top mounts.

-The new ACDelco rear end links come with zerks.

Tomorrow:

I will begin work on the power steering system. I intend to replace the leaking high pressure hose and flush the fluid.

Thanks for your help

 

[CobraKing]

Amazing work as before @techbiker

I added half a bottle of the Lubegard ATF protectant to my truck this morning and was impressed at how smoothly the transmission was shifting on my way in to work this morning. I had my ATF replaced when I purchased the truck about 5 months ago and I've since put about 18K on it since having the work done. Really wish I had added this protectant sooner. I thought I'd mention this to you since you just added some fresh ATF recently.

Also had a chance to check my brake fluid and it looks exactly like yours was prior to replacing it. I can do quite a lot of mechanical work but bleeding brakes is something I just can't get right so I'll have the dealer do it when I have the recall work done on the truck.

 

[jmm121783]

awesome to everyone, I am going to go ahead and change/replace all that stuff you mnetioned, better safe than sorry. Dont want this 10k investment to turn into a giant sinkhole or worse a massive paperweight

Ordering a Volant CAI, LED light bars for my GoRhino Push Bar. Need to get my Black PPV/Worktruck rims on as well! Be back home tomorrow and hoping to do so this week after clear coating the rims.

 

[techbiker]

Aaron,

Great to hear you are getting good results from the Lubegard. My transmission shifted well before I performed the service so I'm just going to change the filter and refill at least once every 45k. Dexron VI seems like great stuff- I wish it was available in the 90's!

Have you tried using speed bleeders? They make brake bleeding much simpler.

Joe,

Let me know if you have any questions. Your truck may or may not run much better with everything changed, however the peace of mind is priceless! I wouldn't be surprised if you regain a few HP and see slightly improved MPG if your fluids/spark plugs are original.

Today:

My high pressure power steering hose never arrived so I just disconnected the old HP hose and drained the power steering fluid from the reservoir. See circa-2011 blackness in attached. I'd say this PS fluid is just a couple shades lighter than my old brake fluid. If you replace the high pressure hose, I recommend replacing the rack to cooler return hose at the same time. Both connect through the same flange.

Tomorrow:

Hopefully I will finish the power steering flush, then begin wrapping up the suspension work. I still need to change the AT shifter bushing. Do you think it's worth performing an engine compression test?

 

[jmm121783]

Yea I need to get my PS fluid too!

 

[techbiker]

Updates from the last 2 days.

Yesterday:

-I attempted to change out the power steering pressure hoses (to and from the rack). Unfortunately, the seals were leaking and replacement was a PITA! I spent about 6 hours meticulously scraping out the old cup seals and installing new ones. This part of the rack was very difficult to get to on jack stands. The new seals were very snug so I am keeping an eye for leaks. Bottom line is replace the entire steering rack if your rack is older and you have leaking pressure hoses. It's not worth spending an entire day scraping and pounding new seals into the rack. I might end up replacing the whole rack in the next year anyway.

-I installed the new AT shifter bushing. The process went smoothly and there is less play in the new bushing. Worth it. Overall, I suspect most of the shifter play is in the column though.

Today:

-I finished replacing the PS hoses and flushed the fluid. To flush, I just disconnected the return line (to the reservoir) and extended it into a catch can. Then I plugged the reservoir inlet. I filled up the reservoir and turned the steering wheel back and forth. Each turn from lock to lock empties the reservoir. Soon the old black fluid was gone!

-I installed both front strut assemblies. The AC Delco professional upper mounts fit properly! The Monroes are getting returned. Make sure you "clock" your strut bodies and upper mounts precisely so they line up with the chassis and control arm mounting holes.

-I couldn't install the new Energy Suspension end links because the center bolts were too short. I am buying longer end link center bolts tomorrow.

Tomorrow:

-Change oil and install magnetic drain plug
-Install ES end links
-Tighten all suspension parts to spec
-Grease chassis and suspension
-Return truck to ground. Then depending on the time, I might change the spark plugs or take the Tahoe in for an alignment and wheel balance first. A new auto tensioner idler pulley and belts are set to go in after the alignment, followed by an Airaid MIT.

*Note that I plan a complete brake service by the middle of next year. There is still meat on the brake pads.

 

[RichardCranium]

-I believe my engine hour meter reset at some point since it only reads 181 hours.

I think we can determine between a few of us that this is plausible. My 2010 shows low engine hours as well, which any NC resident knows isn't accurate for a NC SHP vehicle. However the other stats my DIC shows are way high, such as fuel usage (I believe it shows 9999). My PPV is over 190k miles now.

Nice write-up! I enjoy following these to see how folks handle things in different ways. I am however very thankful that NCSHP also gave me a printout of vehicle history, to include every single line item ever done on my truck (from purchase price, to LED light install, oil changes, tire replacement, and decommissioning). But there is nothing like the peace of mind by getting into your vehicle yourself and even knowing what is done, what is done correctly, and finding out what will need attention.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here too, and thankfully still a pretty active forum.

 

[2011SSVHOE]

I think we can determine between a few of us that this is plausible. My 2010 shows low engine hours as well, which any NC resident knows isn't accurate for a NC SHP vehicle. However the other stats my DIC shows are way high, such as fuel usage (I believe it shows 9999). My PPV is over 190k miles now.

Yea, I think mine was reset also. I purchased mine last November and when I first saw the engine hours it showed 53 with about 70k on the odometer. Last time I looked it had about 275 or so hours. Tomorrow it will have 80k on her. I'm thinking you can reset it when you do an oil change cuz a lot of these units sit and idle more than they rack up miles. Last time I looks it had burnt about 5500 gals of fuel.

 

[PG01]

If you press and hold the check mark on your DIC’s (hahalolol, everytime) most of that crap can be reset...mileage, fuel used, engine hrs....etc

 

[techbiker]

If you press and hold the check mark on your DIC’s (hahalolol, everytime) most of that crap can be reset...mileage, fuel used, engine hrs....etc

Scary isn't it? I heard there is a service bulletin on the engine hour meter. Apparently it can reset if your batteries lose enough charge.

Can you check fuel consumed with the gauge stalk?

Darren- Great deal on your records! I have to submit a freedom of information request for service info on my Tahoe.

After getting burned a couple times, I always tear into every vehicle I buy! If I take my cars to a shop, I explain to the service techs the condition of the systems they are working on. After chatting about performance upgrades, etc. I don't usually get much BS.

Updates:

Today:

-I installed the new front ES end links and torqued all of my suspension components to spec. Greased the outer tie rods.
-Double checked the brake bleeders for tightness.
-Changed my oil again. I found some specs of black "gunk" and a few copper particles in the 225-mile old oil. Given this, I plan to change the oil again in 500-1000 miles to help "flush" out any remaining gunk. I installed a new magnetic drain plug, Mobil 1 filter and Mobil 1 oil. When the shop changed my oil last, they didn't replace the drain plug gasket so it started leaking.
-Rotated the tires.
-Unfortunately it seems I accidentally unplugged an ABS wire somewhere because the ABS light and "Service stabilitrak", etc. warnings are coming up on the gauge cluster now. I suspect the wires near the rear shocks.

I test drove around the neighborhood. The SUV is much more controlled with the new struts! Body sway is greatly reduced, the transmission shifts well, there is less play in the shifter, the steering wheel gives good feedback, and the brakes perform much better. Brake "feel" is dramatically improved. Awesome. While it's not my Z, handling is decent!

Tomorrow:

-I will take the SUV to NTB to get an alignment, tire balance, etc. I will see if they can grease the parking brake cable (forgot this) and locate the disconnected ABS plug. Then it's more time removing sticker residue.

Soon:

-Replace the spark plugs and wires. Need a 3/8 swivel to reach plug #8.
-Replace the serpentine belt, AC belt, tensioner, and idler pulley. The serpentine belt or AC belt squeals when cold.
-Install Airaid MIT
-Replace headlight bulbs
-Replace rusted aux battery tray and accessory hardware, potentially grind rust from the chassis under the tray. My angle grinder was stolen so will need to buy another, ugh!

Then it's off to the body shop to check/reseal the roof holes and replace the cracked windshield! In the meantime I will start ordering the interior parts.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

You should be able to go to any Chevy Dealer parts department, and request the service history on your truck. Most departments let GM do all the recalls and warranty work, so that should be in the system. About all I'd expect you'd get from the agency you got the truck from would be silly stuff like tire, battery and belt replacements and oil changes, if that. I had a guy on another forum who worked for GM get the service info from GM on both our truck and Caprice, and both came back with pretty lengthy lists of things that were done. Our Caprice, for instance, got a cam and lifters at about 60K miles.

And I wouldn't sweat the plugs/wires, unless the truck is running bad. I did the plugs and wires on our '10, after the mileage dropped a bit, and it got me nothing. I now DO know when the plugs were serviced, but it didn't change the performance or mileage on the truck at all.

 

[techbiker]

You should be able to go to any Chevy Dealer parts department, and request the service history on your truck. Most departments let GM do all the recalls and warranty work, so that should be in the system. About all I'd expect you'd get from the agency you got the truck from would be silly stuff like tire, battery and belt replacements and oil changes, if that. I had a guy on another forum who worked for GM get the service info from GM on both our truck and Caprice, and both came back with pretty lengthy lists of things that were done. Our Caprice, for instance, got a cam and lifters at about 60K miles.

And I wouldn't sweat the plugs/wires, unless the truck is running bad. I did the plugs and wires on our '10, after the mileage dropped a bit, and it got me nothing. I now DO know when the plugs were serviced, but it didn't change the performance or mileage on the truck at all.

I am going to drop the SUV off at the dealership to take care of the cooling fan recall. While I'm there, I will see if they can pull the maintenance history. Thanks for the tip!

I am planning on changing the plugs and wires because the engine isn't smooth at idle. I'm getting a bit of vibration (apparently not motor mount related). If the plugs and wires don't fix it, I will check for vacuum leaks. If that doesn't work, I plan to change out the fuel injectors.

 

[2011SSVHOE]

If the GOVT agency does there maintenance in house , the dealer won't be able to tell you anything unless it was warranty or a recall. I purchased mine used from a Ford dealer, so I don't know who the previous owner was other than that, I think it came from around Norfolk VA. from the car check repot.

 

[spectralen]

I am planning on changing the plugs and wires because the engine isn't smooth at idle. I'm getting a bit of vibration (apparently not motor mount related). If the plugs and wires don't fix it, I will check for vacuum leaks. If that doesn't work, I plan to change out the fuel injectors

Use the Techron Fuel Injector cleaner. Run it with a low fuel tank for a higher concentrate. Stuff works great on fixing rough idle caused by dirty injectors.

 

[CobraKing]

@spectralen Is this product similar to the Techron product you mentioned?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/gumout-high-mileage-fuel-system-cleaner-0380163p.html#srp

@techbiker I actually purchased a MOTIVE speed bleeder for my VW Passat (when I still owned it) and I still managed to get air into the lines. I think I'll just let the 'pros' handle it until I change my technique!

 

[techbiker]

Len- Techron fuel injector cleaner is a great product. Aside from Seafoam, I swear it's the only retail cleaner that is really effective. After replacing the injectors twice on my 300zx, I don't mess around with leaking/stuck injectors though. This feels like the kind of injector leakage that can flood out the oil... either that or it's a spark/vacuum leak issue. I'm leaning away from it being a spark problem because I have decent acceleration though.

Aaron- I tried a couple methods ("One Man" vacuum bleeder, 2 person traditional) until I discovered speed bleeders. Just don't overtighten them!

Just a thought- I was researching the AFM lifter failure issue when I remembered that two of the Tahoes at auction had loud lifter noise problems. One of these was built several months and the other several years before mine. Note that the county probably owns 50+ Tahoes. My Tahoe's engine sounds good (just a faint injector and/or lifter tick and belt whine at startup) and doesn't burn much oil. My Z's motor is much louder and I recently rebuilt it with new OEM lifters, upgraded cams, etc... I checked the manufacturing date for my SUV and discovered it was 06/11- nearly a 2012. Do you know when the changeover to revised AFM lifters happened? The AFM TSB came out on 02/11. If mine is a pre-revision Tahoe, I am definitely going to disable AFM.

Today- I spent a couple hours at NTB while the senior alignment tech worked on the Tahoe and removed more sticker residue. I also reached out to sellers to buy some interior pieces.

-NTB removed, flipped, and remounted one tire (originally installed backwards)
-Reconnected the unplugged ABS sensor wire (this ended up being at the rear left)
-Alignment performed, bringing all of the front specs back into spec. Toe and camber were a bit out in the front. Rear toe is wild. Do you know if there is anything I can purchase to add rear toe adjustability? (see attached)
-Balanced all tires. They were all out a good deal.

Man, the ride is great now! Good power and handling and no complaints about the stiffness. Note that I only drove the vehicle 230 miles before this alignment. I doubt the county had performed an alignment for a while, if ever.

Thanks for all of the help.