Removal & Reinstallation of "Roof Panel Joint Finish Molding" -- Any Advice/Experience?

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solli5pack

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At $80 a piece for new ones a work around is going to be needed. Or just leave the seam exposed.
 

j1req

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They never go back to the normal shape. Wind grabs them easily and they are ripped up again. Clean and install new is the best option.

Depending on your vehicle and the color will determine the p/n. Mine was GM 15826605
You can bend them backwards so instead of pealing at the edges it will try to peal at the center. Then you use some thick (I've used 1.6mm I believe) 3m vhb and bob's your uncle. Ofc you'll need to clean it from the old vhb which is a huge pita and thoroughly degrease everything but it does the job.
 

mountie

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You can bend them backwards so instead of pealing at the edges it will try to peal at the center. Then you use some thick (I've used 1.6mm I believe) 3m vhb and bob's your uncle. Ofc you'll need to clean it from the old vhb which is a huge pita and thoroughly degrease everything but it does the job.
When you own a vehicle that’s over 15 years old, ( like mine ) .. I tend to buy needed parts, just in case they become unavailable….
Especially OEM parts.
 

Rocket Man

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That sealant there is not covered up by paint and has no UV resistance, that's why it will eventually fail without these beauty strips. Freeze/thaw cycles will help it fail faster because more water will build up on top and on already flaring edges of completely solid sealant with almost zero flex/expand capability. Every sealant is indirectly affected by freeze/thaw because water gets in the tiniest cracks and flares and then expands significally when frozen.
English is not my native tongue so I may not have made myself clear enough, but your reaction seems to be excessive, to say the very least. I had to re-seal this exact place on my '08 hoe this spring: with a lot of ice buildup on it during winter and being constantly freezing and unfreezing the whole sealant strip on both sides came off with only a half an inch piece keeping it on the roof.
Psh. you clearly don’t understand how body panels are assembled. I will say i completely disagree with what you consider that strip of rubber to be. What you think is going to be damaged is called panel seal and once cured, UV and has zero effect on it. It’s in literally every body seam of your vehicle, and none of those are covered by anything except possibly paint. If you’re still convinced that’s a gasket, here’s the part description. It states it ‘protects and helps enhance the appearance of your SUV’s roof” but it also does state it’s a “finish molding” and thus not a true gasket. It will not keep water out. Your expertise is clearly not in vehicle bodywork so please quit trying to act like you know. You’re being misleading to people who don’t know any better. That piece is not to seal, it’s only for looks. Like I said, my pickup had neither side of those rubber strips in it for years and d n ever leaked. You could have left those out of yours too and it wouldn’t have leaked.
IMG_0213.png
 

mountie

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Psh. you clearly don’t understand how body panels are assembled. I will say i completely disagree with what you consider that strip of rubber to be. What you think is going to be damaged is called panel seal and once cured, UV and has zero effect on it. It’s in literally every body seam of your vehicle, and none of those are covered by anything except possibly paint. If you’re still convinced that’s a gasket, here’s the part description. It states it ‘protects and helps enhance the appearance of your SUV’s roof” but it also does state it’s a “finish molding” and thus not a true gasket. It will not keep water out. Your expertise is clearly not in vehicle bodywork so please quit trying to act like you know. You’re being misleading to people who don’t know any better. That piece is not to seal, it’s only for looks. Like I said, my pickup had neither side of those rubber strips in it for years and d n ever leaked. You could have left those out of yours too and it wouldn’t have leaked.View attachment 464586
I’m saving that link……. to search a 2005 version…..

I may get a pair for my Yukon xl…. But that’s me……. I have a Yukon budget…..
 

solli5pack

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Definitely not spending $80 on a new one. Most likely going to leave it out and pray my truck doesn't turn into a pile of rust!
 

mountie

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Definitely not spending $80 on a new one. Most likely going to leave it out and pray my truck doesn't turn into a pile of rust!
If you want to commit, to filling the seam, use polyurethane , self leveling crack filler….. It will level very flat & smooth, and will probably last the life of the truck. ( Comes in a light , and a dark color. ). Around $25.00 per caulk tube.
 

Rocket Man

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Definitely not spending $80 on a new one. Most likely going to leave it out and pray my truck doesn't turn into a pile of rust!
It wont matter unless you pulled the paint off with it. It’s just for looks anyway.
 

Felix7566

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We're can i find that roof drip molding i looked on line and the part is discontinued i even called.my local dealership to see if they can order it and they also said its discontinued is ther any universal part that will work?
 

Rocket Man

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We're can i find that roof drip molding i looked on line and the part is discontinued i even called.my local dealership to see if they can order it and they also said its discontinued is ther any universal part that will work?
I’d bet there’s an aftermarket one.
 

Fless

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We're can i find that roof drip molding i looked on line and the part is discontinued i even called.my local dealership to see if they can order it and they also said its discontinued is ther any universal part that will work?

Consider putting some vehicle info in your signature so we know what you're working on.

You can look online at one of the GM parts sites to look for a part number (www.gmpartsgiant.com, www.gmpartsdirect.com, etc. but don't order from there). Once you have a part number you can search non-GM vendors if it's been discontinued. You never know, you might find one NOS (new old stock) somewhere. When you called the dealership you could have requested the part number.

Otherwise post the last 8 digits of your VIN in a post here and tag @915_Tahoe like I did there.
 

Rocket Man

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Valid point. I assumed they were all the same for this generation.
They should be, with just the different lengths between standard and long body. when I look up the part for my 08 LTZ, it comes up with a different # and its still available.
 

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