Rear wheel play in and out - source of clunk?

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treehan77

treehan77

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Trying again but it looks like 3 YouTube videos and a pic worked fine. Can anyone tell me what this noise is?! I’m guessing it shouldnt sound like a screeching when I turn the driveshaft.

 

Erickk120

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I believe the screetching is normal in rwd, what isnt is the play on the crosspin, I'm watching on a bad quality phone so I couldn't tell if the bolt was on or off.
 

asand

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Screeching sounds like a non-issue. Clunking sounds like a bad diff. If we could get a vid of the cross pin in it's bore and the spider gears while rocking the drive shaft that would help.
 
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treehan77

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In the video above where I push on the center pin, it’s bolt is IN. So you guys think there should be no play in that pin? Sounds like the bore itself would be the problem then? If so, a new diff would be needed right? If that’s the case, I’ll probably drive it till it kills itself
 

asand

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I bought my Yukon duragrip on Amazon for like $250 and got a $50 rebate from Yukon. With a $20 Amazon dial indicator it was cheap and easy diy.
 

Erickk120

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You can take it out and inspect if there is wear on the pin hole it self, or the carrier, hell could even be the bolt too, the pin it self is cheap, same for the bolt. Bolt is always replaced when you take them out because they tend to snap once in a while. I would say that is the cause of the clunk, as they fit pretty tight, might as well take the c clips out as well.
 
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treehan77

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I took it out. The pin looked fine to me. Replaced c clips too. Bolt coming from amazon sunday
 

Erickk120

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Pretty interesting, I would say it does look fine as far as wear but I don't like the amount of play it seemed to have in the video, normally the bolt should be able to hold it in place, without up and down movement. I would like to see how the new one fits in place, what did the bolt look like out of it?

This is normally what I expect in a ford, and most that slide out but you can still feel a tight fit. The one in the vid was pretty tight.
SKIP TO 2:18

 

Chris2144

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Your cross pin looks like it wore out. The bolt hole looks egg shaped that is where the play is coming from when you push on it. As far as the axle clunk probably c clips. With that much wear I would check backlash with a dial indicator. Also disconnect the driveshaft from the yoke and check for play in the pinion bearing as they are typically the first to go. If any play ie movement is found I would buy a master rebuild kit along with a true trac or ls or locker of your choice and rebuild it. If the bearings are good then just slap a new pin clips and bolt in and be on your way. I didn't see significant wear on the ring gear however i could not get a close look at the spider and side gears though
 

Erickk120

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Your cross pin looks like it wore out. The bolt hole looks egg shaped that is where the play is coming from when you push on it. As far as the axle clunk probably c clips. With that much wear I would check backlash with a dial indicator. Also disconnect the driveshaft from the yoke and check for play in the pinion bearing as they are typically the first to go. If any play ie movement is found I would buy a master rebuild kit along with a true trac or ls or locker of your choice and rebuild it. If the bearings are good then just slap a new pin clips and bolt in and be on your way. I didn't see significant wear on the ring gear however i could not get a close look at the spider and side gears though
Good observation, at first i thought I saw it too but then i also realized the image is tilted too, hard to say without looking at the hole at a 90* angle with light passing through it.
 
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treehan77

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Well replaced the cross pin, c clips, cross pin bolt, both wheel bearings and seals. Fresh fluid etc. still clunks lol
 

SnowDrifter

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Let's go back to square 0. Re check everything. We missed something

Is there any way you can replicate the issue with the vehicle on the ground? Rocking it side to side, jumping on the thing, etc?

Check track bar, control arm bushings. Sway bar bushings.

Chdck body mounts, exhaust hangars, fuel tank straps, shock bushings

Check interior seat, floor jack, any loose items. Folk your seats down, take the jack out, etc

Drop your spare tire down and inspect the winch. Insure the hook is seaten properly then roll it up until the spring is nice and compressed

Also verify the issue with a passenger in the car sitting in the back to rule out echoes / phantom sounds. Sometimes sound cna bounce off interior surfaces and lie to you regarding its location

Brake hardware is all torqued right?
 
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treehan77

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I’m gonna have to get a helper to drive while I listen or something. Can’t reproduce when not driving it, at least by myself. Spare tire and brakes eleiminated, as I removed and reinstalled them to do all this
 

Erickk120

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And this clunk happens when turning to either direction correct?
 
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treehan77

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Seems like it. I normally notice it when I turn one way, then the other at moderate speed and relatively sharp turn
 

retiredsparky

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This is a fairly common complaint about the tahoes. A couple of comments:

Your rear axle does have excess end play (from watching your first video).

Unlike the engine, there is no oil filter in the differential. As the metal parts wear, those little particles that you see attached to the magnet do a pretty good job of grinding on every thing that moves in there before getting stuck to the magnet. That is why so many Tahoes etc with lots of miles have these clunks.

The c-clips are not the only wear point on your axle. The axle also wears just as much as the c-clips. So replacing the c-clips can only reduce some of the wear.

To eliminate the rest of the axle wear, you can buy new axles for about $150 for each 6 lug axle (rock auto.com).

There is a fair amount of metal at the end of the axle, so you could probably continue to drive it like it is for some time. One disadvantage to that is that the excess axle end play that you have can be ******* the brake system. Each time you go around a corner, the axle moves in or out and forces the brake caliper to compensate by pushing on the brake pads increasing wear on the pads and wear in the brake caliper bores.

Also the banging noise is an indicator of forces on the axle and c-clip. As the wear continues, those forces increase and can cause the axle and c-clip to develop microscopic cracks from metal fatigue much like if you would take a hammer and pound on a piece of metal. So this can increase the rate of wear as small pieces of metal slowly break out of the axle groove that the clip rides in. Towing or hauling heavy loads can increase the rate of wear. My Tahoe was used to tow a skiboat for a lot of years so I believe that is why my axles sound like yours. I should probably change out my axles.

Bottom line-your call!
 
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treehan77

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I replaced the c clips and center pin (which I believe also could cause end play) because they were cheap. Elected to not spend $300 for new axles, I wasnt positive that would stop the clunk either.
 

Erickk120

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Since we are still beating the horse let me ask a few questions, did you install the copper colored c clip or the stainless one? If I remember correctly I had excessive end play in one of my axles and installed the stainless colored one since that is the thickest one sold at the store and it was perfect for my application. Is this a 2wd or a 4wd model? How did the c clip fit on the axle? Was it a tight fit with no noticeable slack or in other words they shouldnt just fall in, there should be some resistance. Lastly was the end play of the axle tighten or did it remain the same? If you have a g80 does it still work? This is assuming the axle is clunking at this stage.
 
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treehan77

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I think I used the copper colored ones, they measured slightly thicker. Yeah they seemed to just fall in. 2Wd. Seems like there is a tiny bit less endplay. The g80 works. If you spin one wheel slowly, the other spins the other way. Sped up the spin, and it kicks back
 
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treehan77

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I also couldn’t find specs for the width of the groove on the end of the axle anywhere.
 

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