Rear Main Seal OEM or Felpro

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diezelraccoon

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For my 03 Tahoe 2wd with the 5.3 I’m a bit conflicted on what brand I should get for the rear main seal and retainer gasket. I tend to want to stick OEM especially in a job this big but others are telling me Felpro brand is just as good if not better. I’ve got a local parts place here selling both for $42.99.

What do y’all recommend?
 

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strutaeng

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I've been using FelPro one for the 2 jobs I've done, but wouldn't hesitate to use the OEM.

Buy the centering/installation tool.
 
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diezelraccoon

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I've been using FelPro one for the 2 jobs I've done, but wouldn't hesitate to use the OEM.

Buy the centering/installation tool.
With the centering tool I am seeing a few and also seeing a couple different methods in installing the new rear main seal. I’ve seen some where they install the seal into the plate with it out of engine and ones where they put the plate back on and then use the centering tool and then torture the bolts down and then install the main seal. I am not sure how you would use the centering tool doing it the first method I mentioned.

What do you recommended?
 

viven44

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This is how I do it:

I bought that tool as well.
Thanks. Nice tool.

Just a couple of dumb questions since I've never put my hands on a GM LS gen small block before.

Wouldn't it be possible to remove the old seal and the cover together... then reinstall it together so the old seal works as a centering implement. If its not possible to remove the cover in the first place with the seal in place that is understandable.

Second, if you don't have the cover bolts snug and the cover can still move around, wouldn't tapping in the new seal make the cover center perfectly well and then you can snug the bolts ?
 

strutaeng

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Thanks. Nice tool.

Just a couple of dumb questions since I've never put my hands on a GM LS gen small block before.

Wouldn't it be possible to remove the old seal and the cover together... then reinstall it together so the old seal works as a centering implement. If its not possible to remove the cover in the first place with the seal in place that is understandable.

Second, if you don't have the cover bolts snug and the cover can still move around, wouldn't tapping in the new seal make the cover center perfectly well and then you can snug the bolts ?
There are no dumb questions, Brother.

That's a good question, actually. Now, assuming you remove only the round seal that goes around the crankshaft flange, then you don't need to center the metal cover. You would just leave the metal-clad gasket behind the cover untouched.

I think the issue is that the crankshaft flange seal itself is not rigid enough to center the rear cover. It is pliable so it will conform if it's not centered correctly.
 

latvius

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Thanks. Nice tool.

Just a couple of dumb questions since I've never put my hands on a GM LS gen small block before.

Wouldn't it be possible to remove the old seal and the cover together... then reinstall it together so the old seal works as a centering implement. If its not possible to remove the cover in the first place with the seal in place that is understandable.

Second, if you don't have the cover bolts snug and the cover can still move around, wouldn't tapping in the new seal make the cover center perfectly well and then you can snug the bolts ?
Would it be possible? Maybe, would I try and find out on the rear main where you have to pull the trans again if your test fails - hell no LOL
Spend the money and buy the right tool unless you have fun pulling transmissions out.
I have that SacCity tool set for front and rear seals -it's expensive but it is nice.
 

viven44

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There are no dumb questions, Brother.

That's a good question, actually. Now, assuming you remove only the round seal that goes around the crankshaft flange, then you don't need to center the metal cover. You would just leave the metal-clad gasket behind the cover untouched.

I think the issue is that the crankshaft flange seal itself is not rigid enough to center the rear cover. It is pliable so it will conform if it's not centered correctly.
Ok I was wondering, why would it be necessary to remove the metal cover if you are only doing the RMS. Is the metal cover containing oil pressure and therefore the seals need to be done at the same time ? Again, I have no idea what the purpose of the metal cover is… just trying to understand (I’m used to the old big blocks with 2 piece RMS that can be changed by dropping the oil pan or a 1 piece seal that just goes around the crank flange and the engine block)
 
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strutaeng

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Ok I was wondering, why would it be necessary to remove the metal cover if you are only doing the RMS. Is the metal cover containing oil pressure ?Again, I have no idea what the purpose of the metal cover is… just trying to understand (I’m used to the old big blocks with 2 piece RMS that can be changed by dropping the oil pan or a 1 piece seal that just goes around the crank flange and the engine block)
When you purchase the RMS, it comes with both the cover gasket and the round crankshaft flange seal. The rear cover serves to also retain the oil diverter barbell.

I would imagine you would want to install both new seals at the same time, no? Good for another 200k or whatever they are good for.

I never considered not replacing the cover gasket when I did that job. But I guess there's nothing that says you have to replace it? IDK.
 

viven44

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When you purchase the RMS, it comes with both the cover gasket and the round crankshaft flange seal. The rear cover serves to also retain the oil diverter barbell.

I would imagine you would want to install both new seals at the same time, no? Good for another 200k or whatever they are good for.

I never considered not replacing the cover gasket when I did that job. But I guess there's nothing that says you have to replace it? IDK.
No problems. I’m convinced this tool is needed. When they transitioned to 1 piece rear main seals, the seal design became more durable but the difficulty of replacement also increased. So I’d definitely want to be equipped with all the arsenal!!

Well if/when I may do this job (hopefully on another truck in the future!!), you are in Dallas, I’ll reach out!

My tolerance level is also higher. I’m used to topping off engine oil after a long round trip on my “steel trucks”, ha ha
 

strutaeng

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No problems. I’m convinced this tool is needed. When they transitioned to 1 piece rear main seals, the seal design became more durable but the difficulty of replacement also increased. So I’d definitely want to be equipped with all the arsenal!!

Well if/when I may do this job (hopefully on another truck in the future!!), you are in Dallas, I’ll reach out!

My tolerance level is also higher. I’m used to topping off engine oil after a long round trip on my “steel trucks”, ha ha
Oh yeah, I forgot we are local to each other. No problem.

I bought the SacCity version when I did the RMS on my truck 2 years ago, then this Spring I pulled the engine for a refresh. I bought an Amazon front alignment tool that has both front and rear. That one is just a solid aluminum piece. Both work fine. Admittedly, I actually reused the RMS on the engine, since it was kinda newish. LoL
 

S33k3r

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Oh yeah, I forgot we are local to each other. No problem.

I bought the SacCity version when I did the RMS on my truck 2 years ago, then this Spring I pulled the engine for a refresh. I bought an Amazon front alignment tool that has both front and rear. That one is just a solid aluminum piece. Both work fine. Admittedly, I actually reused the RMS on the engine, since it was kinda newish. LoL
No problems. I’m convinced this tool is needed. When they transitioned to 1 piece rear main seals, the seal design became more durable but the difficulty of replacement also increased. So I’d definitely want to be equipped with all the arsenal!!

Well if/when I may do this job (hopefully on another truck in the future!!), you are in Dallas, I’ll reach out!

My tolerance level is also higher. I’m used to topping off engine oil after a long round trip on my “steel trucks”, ha ha
Where are you guys located, if you do not mind me asking? I am in Dallas, Texas too!
 

viven44

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I'm in SW Dallas in Oak Cliff, not far from Mt. View College/Loop 12...In the hood.
That's really proximate to Summit Racing and Copart.
I'm in North Dallas, specifically Richardson

Y'all hit me up if there are any truck/car meets...

Where in Dallas are you @S33k3r ?

Really hope OP doesn't mind his thread getting hijacked!! Is that pretty common around here ? I'm on another classic bullnose Ford forum and that is a common occurrence :rotflmao:
 
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S33k3r

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That's really proximate to Summit Racing and Copart.
I'm in North Dallas, specifically Richardson

Y'all hit me up if there are any truck/car meets...

Where in Dallas are you @S33k3r ?

Really hope OP doesn't mind his thread getting hijacked!! Is that pretty common around here ? I'm on another classic bullnose Ford forum and that is a common occurrence :rotflmao:
Oops! Sorry, OP. But you know how Texas is, right? Everything is bigger in Texas, especially the interruptions.
 

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