Rear Defrost connector repair- seems tricky and requires 3 hands???

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OneofFew

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Anyone done this or have an alternate method?

# 03-08-48-006J: Repair Information for Reconnection of Rear Window (Defroster) Contact or Tab - (Dec 11, 2014)

Subject: Repair Information for Reconnection of Rear Window (Defroster) Contact or Tab

Models: 2000-2015 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Excluding 2015 Chevrolet
Tahoe, Suburban, GMC Yukon and Cadillac Escalade)
Equipped With Electric Rear Window Defroster (RPO C49)


This Bulletin has been revised to update the Global Labor Code (GLC) and the Models section and add the 2015 Model Year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-48-006I.

Repair Suggestions

Soldering Defroster Contact Tabs

In many cases the terminal tab will still be in the connector when you examine the vehicle. For 2007-2014 Chevrolet Tahoe, Suburban, GMC Yukon and Cadillac Escalade vehicles (with moveable glass), always replace the defroster tab (GMP/N 25916031) and the defroster electrical power connector (P/N 12034110). For all other vehicles, reconnect the original defroster tab.

In most applications it is preferable to create a new solder connection to reattach a separated rear defroster tab. If you take note of the steps below, it is possible to create a new solder joint that is equal to, or stronger than, the original. The generic procedure below is not very time intensive, but does include minor preparation work to create a good bonding surface. Be sure to follow each of the steps, as combined they will produce the strongest bond possible. Please consider the following before attempting the repair:

^ Soldering introduces significant heat to the glass window of the vehicle. When performing the re-connection of the tab, use only the heat required to do the job. Pre-heat the soldering iron and have the solder in your other hand, ready to go, the moment you have enough heat to melt the solder.


^ If it is winter, bring the vehicle into the service garage and remove any snow from the back window area. Allow time for the glass to warm to the temperature inside the building. Soldering creates a "hot spot" in the glass. DO NOT solder on cold glass.


Caution : Heating the glass excessively, or repeatedly without time to cool, may result in glass breakage. ALWAYS wear safety glasses when performing this repair!


^ You MUST use a silver-bearing solder to make the connection. DO NOT attempt this repair with conventional tin/lead alloy solders. Silver bearing solder will adhere to the electrical buss bar, making a strong and lasting repair.


^ Protect surfaces under the area to be soldered. It is very easy to drip solder when performing this repair. Placing a shop towel under the soldering area is sufficient protection.


Soldering Procedure

1. It is imperative to remove and replace the rear defroster electrical power connector by crimping a new connector to the feed wire. The proper connector P/N 12034110 can be found in the Packard Electrical Assortment, Tray 18, Position 5.


^ Insert Delphi pick 12094430 to depress the locking tab on the terminal.


^ Insert Delphi pick 12094429 to release the secondary lock tab.


Important : DO NOT re-use the existing defroster tab on new-style full-size utility vehicles with moveable glass.


2. Connect the electrical connector to the defroster tab. Fully engage the connector. An improperly seated connector may cause excessive resistance and impede the proper operation of the defroster. Add a small bead of solder to mate the electrical connector tab to the defroster tab.




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3. Prepare the surface of the used defroster tab (not required for new tabs on new-style full-size utility models) and the defroster buss bar with fine grain (500 grit) sandpaper or Emery cloth. It is not necessary to remove all of the original solder, but it should be scuffed sufficiently so that no oxidation is present. The photo shows a close up of a properly prepared surface.


Tip:
You may want to mask the glass around the contact area with tape. This is easy to do and will allow you to safely prepare the contact surface without the risk of scratching the glass or the black painted shading.


Important : Most rear glass has a black painted masking around the edge of the glass. When cleaning up the connection surface, be very careful not to damage the surface of the black shading or the surface of the glass.




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4. Wipe the newly prepared contact area with Kent Automotive* Acrysol(TM) (or equivalent) to remove any residual oil or dirt.




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Important : You MUST use a silver-bearing solder to make the solder joint. DO NOT attempt this repair with conventional tin/lead alloy solders. Most suppliers have this type of solder available and it is available nationally at Radio Shack(R) (U.S.) or The Source(R) (Canada).* It is sold in several diameters and either are acceptable for this repair.


5. For this step, it is permitted that two technicians be used if required. Heat the new connector on the surface of the buss bar that is to be soldered. Long nose pliers are suggested to hold the electrical connector and the defroster tab in place. Keep the solder ready and begin flowing out the solder as soon as the melting temperature has been reached.


Tip:
If a single technician is attempting this repair, it is beneficial to wrap one turn of the solder around the new contacts base. In this manner, as the melting point of the solder is reached, a layer is deposited on the bottom side of the contact.


Important : Try to align the new contact so that it is positioned with the same orientation as the original contact.




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6. The illustrates an ideal finished solder joint. Additional stray solder will not harm the performance of the bond; however, while it is unlikely that customers may refer to the appearance of the rear window defroster and its components as a positive styling feature of the vehicle interior, it is easy to elicit the opposite reaction due to a poor cosmetic application.


*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be available from other sources.
 
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OneofFew

OneofFew

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I am thinking to clean the oxidation off, heat the connector and stick it on the old solder. It should reflow it briefly and not heat up the glass enough to cause a bad day.
 

George B

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My turn. Not much left of the area after multiple repair attempts by the PO and myself. I guess frost fighter is my only hope before new glass. Going to search for a pad repair or something I guess.

E7CE7CD5-C01B-4279-B9AD-48E8B1176D06.jpeg 5BE4B1B3-13A9-403A-B506-C75878EB1598.jpeg
 

adventurenali92

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I used the frost fighter kit on the 2004 esky glass I swapped onto my truck. It had a broken tab when I grabbed it from the yard. Gave the contact pad a slight sand to smooth it out and then applied the adhesive from the kit. Stuck the metal for the connector back on and let it sit. The drives for in glass worked perfectly after the fix, and that was three years ago. Both tabs were still intact when I pulled the 2004 hatch off in early summer this year.
Edit: the frost fighter kit is cheap, and it’s a simple process. I had the tab repaired in like a half hour. It was super easy.though I did the repair before the glass was mounted on my tail gate. That probably made it quite a bit easier.
 

George B

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I used the frost fighter kit on the 2004 esky glass I swapped onto my truck. It had a broken tab when I grabbed it from the yard. Gave the contact pad a slight sand to smooth it out and then applied the adhesive from the kit. Stuck the metal for the connector back on and let it sit. The drives for in glass worked perfectly after the fix, and that was three years ago. Both tabs were still intact when I pulled the 2004 hatch off in early summer this year.
Edit: the frost fighter kit is cheap, and it’s a simple process. I had the tab repaired in like a half hour. It was super easy.though I did the repair before the glass was mounted on my tail gate. That probably made it quite a bit easier.
I am tempted to take the glass out for this repair and bring it into the house. Its winter so our basement is hot and dry with the wood fire going.
 

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