Question About Brakes for 24's...

[Conor]

I went more than 1000 miles being easy on them. Then, I did some "seasoning." I'm just wondering what, exactly, leads these things to warp so easily, and within how many miles you can expect them to warp.

Thanks!

KMel,
You should be good as long as you waited at least 1K miles. Are you running OEM rotors? What causes them to warp is if you get them hot by riding your brakes down a long hill and then stepping on the brakes hard for a stop. With OEM rotors, it does not take much to warp them, or to get them real hot. You will know when your brakes are warped because when you apply the brake your truck will surge and shake. You can have your OEM rotors turned by a shop to smooth them out, but that is going to make the rotors even more susceptible to warping again down the road.
Its not so much how many miles causes them to warp. You can warp a rotor in a 1K-3K miles if you get them hot enough and then have to jump on the brakes for a sudden stop. This is the big issue with the OEM brakes. A good slotted and/or dimpled or cross drilled rotor lets the heat escape, allowing the brakes to stay cool and therefore are not nearly as susceptible to warping.

Does that answer your question?

 

[KMeloney]

KMel,
You should be good as long as you waited at least 1K miles. Are you running OEM rotors? What causes them to warp is if you get them hot by riding your brakes down a long hill and then stepping on the brakes hard for a stop. With OEM rotors, it does not take much to warp them, or to get them real hot. You will know when your brakes are warped because when you apply the brake your truck will surge and shake. You can have your OEM rotors turned by a shop to smooth them out, but that is going to make the rotors even more susceptible to warping again down the road.
Its not so much how many miles causes them to warp. You can warp a rotor in a 1K-3K miles if you get them hot enough and then have to jump on the brakes for a sudden stop. This is the big issue with the OEM brakes. A good slotted and/or dimpled or cross drilled rotor lets the heat escape, allowing the brakes to stay cool and therefore are not nearly as susceptible to warping.

Does that answer your question?

Yes, it sure does. Thanks a million. Incidentally, I'm not getting a shudder upon braking, but I sense a bit of unevenness right near full stop. We'll see.

I'll be following this and any aftermarket brake threads to see which rotors I should replace the OEMs with.

 

[IncisionInd]

im thinking that i am just going to go with the EBC rotors and Hawk pads when its time, but if i come across some cash i would love a wilwood or Baer system

 

[macky]

i have powerslot rotors and hawk lts pads. my stops my 24s just like stock, they each weighed like 8lbs more than the stock 20s with snow tires.

 

[BossMan74]

so anyone knows where to get a good deal on this brakes upgrade!!!!!!

 

[GalaxyBlackEsky]

I got my SSBC big rotor kit for 485 off the SSBC website.

 

[HopInTheHoe]

I got my SSBC big rotor kit for 485 off the SSBC website.

would you mind PM'ing me the set up you used?

 

[KMeloney]

would you mind PM'ing me the set up you used?

Nooo! Just announce it here. I want to know, too!

 

[GalaxyBlackEsky]

here is the Direct link to the SSBC

http://www.ssbrakes.com/commerce/detail/index.cfm?nPID=8403