Power Window Help

[01YukonSC]

Needing some help determining the cause of why my driver window won’t roll up. I replaced the switch and regulator two years ago and the window worked until recently. Figured it had to be the motor and put a new one in and doesn’t work. New motor and old motor work when I plug them into rear drivers side outlet. Learned from my mistake to always test it out.

Now I’ve tested the switch and the plug that goes into the motor and it seems to be the plug. Tested with a LED continuity tester. The blue and gray outlets from the switch work and the blue from the plug work. But the brown doesn’t (picture below). I have the part to cut the wires and put in a new plug.

However, I think I may also have a bad body control module. I bought the Yukon ten years ago and have had intermittent electronic issues here and there such as a light in the dash not coming on intermittently or and the rear windows will roll down on their own if the window lock is not on. This has been going on for years but hasn’t caused any issues besides random, infrequent, minor issues like those. So I’m stuck on deciding whether to cut the wires to put a new plug on, which I hate doing or taking to the shop to test the BCM. Thoughts? Cut it and try or take to shop for BCM?

 

[ScottyBoy]

I'm assuming from your screen name that it's a 2001. I had a similar issue on my 2001. Turned out to be the drivers door wiring harness. Try opening the door and operate the window with the door open. Pop that side cover off the dash and wiggle the plug from the driver's door that has the window wiring in it, I think it's the brown plug. If you get the window to temporarily work by wiggling that harness, then that's your issue. Another common problem on higher mileage vehicles is a broken wire in the door jamb boot. Those wires bend and flex EVERY time the door is opened and closed. After thousands of times doing that, wires can break. And just because the insulation isn't broken doesn't mean that the actual conductor isn't broken. I've seen wires that APPEAR perfectly fine, but the wire was broken inside the insulation because of the constant flexing. To properly diagnose a broken wire you will need a test light or multimeter.

 

[01YukonSC]

I'm assuming from your screen name that it's a 2001. I had a similar issue on my 2001. Turned out to be the drivers door wiring harness. Try opening the door and operate the window with the door open. Pop that side cover off the dash and wiggle the plug from the driver's door that has the window wiring in it, I think it's the brown plug. If you get the window to temporarily work by wiggling that harness, then that's your issue. Another common problem on higher mileage vehicles is a broken wire in the door jamb boot. Those wires bend and flex EVERY time the door is opened and closed. After thousands of times doing that, wires can break. And just because the insulation isn't broken doesn't mean that the actual conductor isn't broken. I've seen wires that APPEAR perfectly fine, but the wire was broken inside the insulation because of the constant flexing. To properly diagnose a broken wire you will need a test light or multimeter.

Thanks Scotty. Yes it’s a 2001. I used a test light and the blue and brown wires work coming out of the switch and the blue wire for the plug into the motor works but the brown doesn’t. Since I’m getting power out of the brown at the switch, I think it’s the plug/wire going to the plug. I just hate to cut the wire and splice in new if I’m not 100%. I’m going to check the door jams though and see.

 

[ScottyBoy]

I know there's a green wire that is the main power feed to the window switch. If that wire loses power, the drivers window will not work. The other 3 WILL work however, because the switch just sends a ground to trigger each of those switches to turn on, but that's a whole nother story. If that green wire loses power, or has a bad/loose connection, then the switch will not have the power to send to the motor, and window motor will not work. Double check that green wire, with the door open and closed. Also, Ignition has to be ON for that green wire to have power, so be sure to test it with the IGN on.

 

[DIsney]

I know there's a green wire that is the main power feed to the window switch. If that wire loses power, the drivers window will not work. The other 3 WILL work however, because the switch just sends a ground to trigger each of those switches to turn on, but that's a whole nother story. If that green wire loses power, or has a bad/loose connection, then the switch will not have the power to send to the motor, and window motor will not work. Double check that green wire, with the door open and closed. Also, Ignition has to be ON for that green wire to have power, so be sure to test it with the IGN on.

I'm tracking down my Left Rear window not working and I find I don't have power to this green wire. Do you know where it's getting power from? I've checked all the fuses and relays and I don't see what is powering this.

Edit: I do have like 1.6V on that wire, it's not totally dead for some reason.

 

[corvette744]

Thanks Scotty. Yes it’s a 2001. I used a test light and the blue and brown wires work coming out of the switch and the blue wire for the plug into the motor works but the brown doesn’t. Since I’m getting power out of the brown at the switch, I think it’s the plug/wire going to the plug. I just hate to cut the wire and splice in new if I’m not 100%. I’m going to check the door jams though and see.

Did you probe the brown wire with your sharp test light just before the plug on the brown wire.Does it work before the plug if not then follow it back till you find the problem.If it works before the plug but not after then yes its the plug.