Popping from front end

[kwOH]

Yeah I live in Maryland and everything on that truck is rusted underneath so I guess that's a good possibility. Didn't realize how many different things could be causing that pop. This is going to take a while to figure out

You should be able to check with like a pry bar or something if there is any excessive play in the bj’s or tr’s, and the cv’s if the boots are ok, they should be ok, unless theres obvious damage, if its not any of those i would bet on the torsion bar mounts.

 

[02_Tahoe]

You should be able to check with like a pry bar or something if there is any excessive play in the bj’s or tr’s, and the cv’s if the boots are ok, they should be ok, unless theres obvious damage, if its not any of those i would bet on the torsion bar mounts.

Tie rods were replaced in august thinking that's what the popping was and it didn't fix it, I've checked bjs with the pry bar and there is no play. I feel it in the steering wheel and if it is the mounts then it makes sense that I feel it in the wheel because it's part of the suspension

 

[02_Tahoe]

Yeah, pretty much anything that moves.

So pretty much everything

 

[kwOH]

Tie rods were replaced in august thinking that's what the popping was and it didn't fix it, I've checked bjs with the pry bar and there is no play. I feel it in the steering wheel and if it is the mounts then it makes sense that I feel it in the wheel because it's part of the suspension

I could feel mine in everything, it was a big pop, I could almost time it, knew when it was going to pop based on how sharp I was turning.

 

[kwOH]

Ill just go ahead an add how to go about fixing it just in case you decide thats the problem. The mounts themselves shouldn’t be bad, its the rubber bushings on the ends of the crossmember, you’ll have to use a torsion bar tool to take the torsion bars out just like you would if you were replacing the keys, so if you do want to add lift keys now would be the time, but once you have the t-bars out, you have to take the crossmember out, some people take the time to clean it up and paint it while its out to prevent further corrosion, then the rubber bushings have to pressed out like bearings and new ones pressed in.

 

[02_Tahoe]

Ill just go ahead an add how to go about fixing it just in case you decide thats the problem. The mounts themselves shouldn’t be bad, its the rubber bushings on the ends of the crossmember, you’ll have to use a torsion bar tool to take the torsion bars out just like you would if you were replacing the keys, so if you do want to add lift keys now would be the time, but once you have the t-bars out, you have to take the crossmember out, some people take the time to clean it up and paint it while its out to prevent further corrosion, then the rubber bushings have to pressed out like bearings and new ones pressed in.

Im already lifted so don't need the keys but it was put on a year ago so should be easy to take them out. Thanks for the info

 

[M1Gunner]

Yeah I did lower the keys a little bit because the back settled a bit and the truck was squatting. What would that do though?

What happens is that the rollers inside the CV joint wear a groove where they ride. So when you increase or decrease the angle of the axle, those rollers now roll in a different path. When the rollers new path intersects the groove from the old path, the rollers "pop" as they run across. Which is more prominent when you turn.

If you didn't have this noise before you adjusted your ride height, I would start there.

 

[02_Tahoe]

What happens is that the rollers inside the CV joint wear a groove where they ride. So when you increase or decrease the angle of the axle, those rollers now roll in a different path. When the rollers new path intersects the groove from the old path, the rollers "pop" as they run across. Which is more prominent when you turn.

If you didn't have this noise before you adjusted your ride height, I would start there.

That makes a lot of sense, and I don't remember it happening before I lowered it down some. Thanks for the help

 

[southboundchicken]

lower control arm bushings are worn out causing the torsion bar to move within the socket of the lower control arm.....

 

[HiHoeSilver]

An awful lot of good ideas here... Me sure you let us know what you find.

 

[Chubbs]

The POP/THUNK noise that I was getting driving over bumps came from a faulty front shock absorber. I replaced them both and no more sounds. I dismissed the idea because they felt plenty strong when I swapped the torsion bar keys back in August or whatever. Just goes to show you...

 

[BeenChevy]

Had a clicking/ratcheting sound coming from the front drivers side during slow speed (less than 1 mile/hr) suspension travel - more noticeable when the wheels where turned to the right. This was resolved by only re-torquing my cross-member bolts. Will cost you next to nothing if this is the issue. There's a service bulletin about this and here's a related thread about it:

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/crossmember-fix.19711/

 

[CamReynolds]

check the cv and even the spot where the uca meets the droop stop. if the uca is resting on the droop stop it will clunk when you hit a bump