ok to drive with air suspension not working?

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oldskier

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my compressor started running more than it used to and started sounding sicker. one day I noticed it doesn't run anymore. I asked my mechanic if I could just keep driving it like that. He mentioned 2 different styles but I didn't know what ones I had. He took a quick look at them and mentioned the style and said the boots look in good shape. I don't notice any problem in the ride or the smoothness. He said it is fine to just keep driving on them and I wouldn't have to replace them. He said a lot of people just leave it not working and it isn't a problem. He said if I'm not usually trailering heavy stuff It shouldn't be a problem, it will just sage a little in the rear when loaded like normal shocks. Is this accurate, can I just leave them not working? I have been driving like this for a couple of months to work and a couple of 100 mile trips.
 

Doubeleive

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my compressor started running more than it used to and started sounding sicker. one day I noticed it doesn't run anymore. I asked my mechanic if I could just keep driving it like that. He mentioned 2 different styles but I didn't know what ones I had. He took a quick look at them and mentioned the style and said the boots look in good shape. I don't notice any problem in the ride or the smoothness. He said it is fine to just keep driving on them and I wouldn't have to replace them. He said a lot of people just leave it not working and it isn't a problem. He said if I'm not usually trailering heavy stuff It shouldn't be a problem, it will just sage a little in the rear when loaded like normal shocks. Is this accurate, can I just leave them not working? I have been driving like this for a couple of months to work and a couple of 100 mile trips.
well preferably you should replace the pump, it's also possible the pump gave up the ghost from having to run too often which would be indicative of a leak which is usually the shock bellows leaking. driving it deflated just puts more wear on the shock presuming it is still ok and the pump just quit instead.
so moral of this is you should at least replace the pump and test everything.
otherwise yes, you can drive it like that but for me I can tell when it is not working correct and the rear will have some fish tail to it
 

B-train

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If your pump was running continuously or very frequently it was because of an air leak. Most common cause is the air bags on the shocks. Just looking at them doesn't tell if they are good or bad (unless obvious holes). They would need to be sprayed with soapy water under pressure. Usually they leak at the fold where they bend constantly and is hard to see unless on a lift.

Your mechanic is wrong saying you can continue to drive this way for 1 reason: deflated bags will rub on each other continuously without any air gap when deflated. This WILL cause a leak if there isn't one already. Seen it, bought it used and have the t-shirt.

If you don't care about the air ride, then there are plenty of aftermarket alternatives to put good shocks under it with heavier springs.

Or,depending on budget, buy all new GM and install from compressor to axle. Or,buy GM compressor and use Arnott shocks for less money and good warranty.
 

repairman54

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At 100k miles one of my air bags got a hole in it. And it took out the pump from it running constantly. 2 new GM shocks and a Dorman air pump and I'm back to normal. New Dorman pump has thermal protection to help prevent burnout. I've got the electronic air shocks also so I went GM on the shocks to avoid aftermarket issues. At 150k now and no issues. '11 LTZ
 

Geotrash

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my compressor started running more than it used to and started sounding sicker. one day I noticed it doesn't run anymore. I asked my mechanic if I could just keep driving it like that. He mentioned 2 different styles but I didn't know what ones I had. He took a quick look at them and mentioned the style and said the boots look in good shape. I don't notice any problem in the ride or the smoothness. He said it is fine to just keep driving on them and I wouldn't have to replace them. He said a lot of people just leave it not working and it isn't a problem. He said if I'm not usually trailering heavy stuff It shouldn't be a problem, it will just sage a little in the rear when loaded like normal shocks. Is this accurate, can I just leave them not working? I have been driving like this for a couple of months to work and a couple of 100 mile trips.
Rock Auto has the best deal around on the factory rear air shocks and they also sell the Dorman pump. I replaced the rears on both of my Denalis over the past few years and the OEM shocks are terrific. I tow heavy often so I needed the air ride shocks.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Yes you can drive it in that condition, but if available money to repair is not an issue, why would you do it? As stated above, driving it without repairs will put extra strain on the deflated air bags and springs (which were designed to be 'helped' by the air shocks). If you do any wrenching at all, this is an easy repair.
 

petethepug

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Hey, welcome. Whatcha driving? I assume you’ve got a truck equipped with the z55 or z95 active suspension option. Is one of those two RPO codes on your glove box door?

There’s a possibility you’ve got a truck with air suspension only in the rear or hydraulic shocks like a 3/4 ton Burb.
 
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oldskier

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Hey, welcome. Whatcha driving? I assume you’ve got a truck equipped with the z55 or z95 active suspension option. Is one of those two RPO codes on your glove box door?

There’s a possibility you’ve got a truck with air suspension only in the rear or hydraulic shocks like a 3/4 ton Burb.I

Hey, welcome. Whatcha driving? I assume you’ve got a truck equipped with the z55 or z95 active suspension option. Is one of those two RPO codes on your glove box door?

There’s a possibility you’ve got a truck with air suspension only in the rear or hydraulic shocks like a 3/4 ton Burb.
It is a 2012 Yukon SLT I think it is called. 1500 4x4. I have an appointment to bring it in. I assume I am going to just have it converted to regular shocks and springs. The guy at the shop said if they cant get the pump to work I would prob have to start with the pump and go from there. After that there would be no turning back I assume. they dont have a way to pump up the shocks without puting in a new pump. from what i have seen new pump and shocks could be 2500 to 3000 dollars. And im guessing if I just have it converted it would be half that. Im in champlin MN and am bringing it to M&M in maple grove if anyone is familiar with the area I think they have a very good reputation.
 

petethepug

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Wow, some shop is getting ready to fleece you. The inside of your glovebox door will show “z55” as one of the RPO codes. The door pillar may say “Auto Ride”. Regardless, the brunt of the cost you’re getting ready to bear is the equivalent of diagnosing a flat tire. It is, or it isn’t broken with this stuff.


DO NOT spend dough on undoing the active suspension. The workaround is a fix that diminishes the value, throws dash light codes and is a loss to a fix that has a lifetime warranty on parts. You’d also give up the ride that’s first to none. There was a day when GM would get $5-$6h for diagnostic and $2.5k for a complete replacement of parts with no lifetime warranty.

Replacement shocks and a pump are available at RockAuto, Summit & Amazon. Keep in mind any warranty from Amazon is from the seller, not Amazon itself.

Sadly, I hate to say it the simplicity of the system relegates bypassing diagnostics and purchasing two rear z55 struts and a compressor. Request an independent shop install the rear shocks. If needed replace the pump or return it for a refund. Call it done and skip the diagnostic cost. These are simply shocks that wear out being replaced by shocks & a pump with a lifetime warranty. Do it right once.

BTW after you look at the pricing online you’ll see $2-$3k is really disrespectful to first time owners.
 
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oldskier

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Wow, some shop is getting ready to fleece you. The inside of your glovebox door will show “z55” as one of the RPO codes. The door pillar may say “Auto Ride”. Regardless, the brunt of the cost you’re getting ready to bear is the equivalent of diagnosing a flat tire. It is, or it isn’t broken with this stuff.


DO NOT spend dough on undoing the active suspension. The workaround is a fix that diminishes the value, throws dash light codes and is a loss to a fix that has a lifetime warranty on parts. You’d also give up the ride that’s first to none. There was a day when GM would get $5-$6h for diagnostic and $2.5k for a complete replacement of parts with no lifetime warranty.

Replacement shocks and a pump are available at RockAuto, Summit & Amazon. Keep in mind any warranty from Amazon is from the seller, not Amazon itself.

Sadly, I hate to say it the simplicity of the system relegates bypassing diagnostics and purchasing two rear z55 struts and a compressor. Request an independent shop install the rear shocks. If needed replace the pump or return it for a refund. Call it done and skip the diagnostic cost. These are simply shocks that wear out being replaced by shocks & a pump with a lifetime warranty. Do it right once.

BTW after you look at the pricing online you’ll see $2-$3k is really disrespectful to first time owners.
they didn't quote me 2-3 thousand. From what i have heard that is about what it costs. about how much should it cost for a auto repair shop to change the motor and shocks. This is a legit auto repair shop business so im not looking at a do it yourself price. I dont know if they will order the stuff from rockauto or who they get the parts from? I am out of town on vacation and bringing the car in on March 6th and want to drive it to the Black Hills SD on the 12th. I don't have the time or the knowledge to order all the parts they need to do the job. and for all I know they might not install customer bought parts? Thanks.
 

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