Maxclass
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2018
- Posts
- 14
- Reaction score
- 3
I replaced my oil pan this past weekend as a weekend warrior project for my 4x4 Tahoe. Truck has 175,000 miles. See my before and after pictures for the amount of the oil leak accumulating over time compared to the new pan. Mechanic wanted $700. Total DIY cost was $70 except add an additional $150 for new oil pan.
Oil gasket had the original factory rivets. Replaced with FelPro oil gasket. Sludge was minimal. Flywheel was bone-dry when inspected with the oil pan off, which I have read, is a fairly good sign an oil leak is not coming from the rear main seal (although some post indicate there can still be a RMS leak with a dry flywheel). Drove an entire week with the new pan. Leak is gone EXCEPT for occasional droplets found on the outside of the bell housing (nothing substantial but clearly a leak elsewhere). See picture with arrow and circle on bell housing.
I am going to check the oil pressure gauge for leaking next; it's location behind the engine compartment looks like a pain-in-the-ass to get to without removing the intake manifold which is not going to happen for this process. So yeah, reaching my hand back there blindly and feeling for signs of oil. Starter does not appear to have oil on it nor the bolts to the starter.
Notes to future DIY:
1. Drop the diff if 4x4 (See link to YouTube)
2. Ensure all oil pan bolts are removed before taking off pan. (I counted the # of bolts removed instead of looking at the oil pan perimeter). I missed 1. Had to buy new oil pan after snapping front rear corner off.)
3. Torque (2) rear oil pan bolts -the long ones- at 106 inch points and not 18 ft pounds
4. Starter made a ticking noise after reinstallation. I suspect the original starter pinon was not engaging the flywheel properly. Noise subsided over time and is now gone. It still was not a nice noise to hear after dismantling the oil pan.
Resources Used:
Haynes Manual, Chapter 2B-15
View attachment 208778

Oil gasket had the original factory rivets. Replaced with FelPro oil gasket. Sludge was minimal. Flywheel was bone-dry when inspected with the oil pan off, which I have read, is a fairly good sign an oil leak is not coming from the rear main seal (although some post indicate there can still be a RMS leak with a dry flywheel). Drove an entire week with the new pan. Leak is gone EXCEPT for occasional droplets found on the outside of the bell housing (nothing substantial but clearly a leak elsewhere). See picture with arrow and circle on bell housing.
I am going to check the oil pressure gauge for leaking next; it's location behind the engine compartment looks like a pain-in-the-ass to get to without removing the intake manifold which is not going to happen for this process. So yeah, reaching my hand back there blindly and feeling for signs of oil. Starter does not appear to have oil on it nor the bolts to the starter.
Notes to future DIY:
1. Drop the diff if 4x4 (See link to YouTube)
2. Ensure all oil pan bolts are removed before taking off pan. (I counted the # of bolts removed instead of looking at the oil pan perimeter). I missed 1. Had to buy new oil pan after snapping front rear corner off.)
3. Torque (2) rear oil pan bolts -the long ones- at 106 inch points and not 18 ft pounds
4. Starter made a ticking noise after reinstallation. I suspect the original starter pinon was not engaging the flywheel properly. Noise subsided over time and is now gone. It still was not a nice noise to hear after dismantling the oil pan.
Resources Used:
Haynes Manual, Chapter 2B-15
View attachment 208778





Last edited: