no start no crank and no crank when i bypass the starter relay switch 2001 tahoe - i know another thread but i cant find my help

[E J F]

no start, no crank, and no crank when i bypass the starter relay switch. (2001 Tahoe)
i parked my hoe in front of my house left for 3 days and then no crank, nothing on the dash and i still get power to the windows and locks and heater, head lights.
i no my battery is not the best swapped for a known good battery and it started up (yes) turned off vehicle and back to nothing again.
next day checked the crank fuse and i get 12.3 volts when i crank on both sides of fuse
checked ignition c fuse and i get 12.3 v when cranking
checked the 40a starter fuse and i get 12.3v
removed the starter relay and checked pin 30 and i get 12.3v
checked starter relay pin 85 and i get 12.3v when cranking
checked pin 86 and getting ground
i bypassed the starter relay 30 to 87 and i get no start and no crank still

i assume since all fuses i checked point towards the ignition switch and neutral safety switch are working.
i bought a new ac delco professional series starter and days later i received and i took out the old starter and i sanded the wire connections. i checked the volts at the big wire connection and i get 12.2v, then i check the small wire and had it cranked and bouncing all over the place and i don't recall seeing the full volts ( has me curious of a bad small wire problem)
installed starter and i get light s on dash but a hit and miss and cranked the key and i got a click nothing else

so frustrated and don't even want this vehicle anymore thats how frustrated i am.
( i did spray some green seafoam at the battery connections earlier in the day of all this trouble) just a mention but nothing else was done and ran perfectly like it has always done.
oh i did turn the engine over by hand so it is not seized

Thanks Eric

 

[B-train]

It sounds like you are on the right path. Does it start in neutral by chance? Also, the 12v going to the solenoid with erratic voltage doesn't sound good. Can you do a voltage drop test on your positive lead from the battery to the starter to see if you're losing it somewhere?

If you live in a salt state or park on damp gravel all the time, I'd look at your ground connections and inspect your positive and negative cables. Spraying something on the connector won't clean it. Remove, scrap/polish clean and then assemble with some dielectric grease. There is an aerosol battery terminal cleaner that dissolves corrosion and works quite well too you could try. But, that only cleans up the ends. If your cables have fur on them or look discolored where the wires go into the coating, you could have hidden corrosion as well.

 

[E J F]

It sounds like you are on the right path. Does it start in neutral by chance? Also, the 12v going to the solenoid with erratic voltage doesn't sound good. Can you do a voltage drop test on your positive lead from the battery to the starter to see if you're losing it somewhere?

If you live in a salt state or park on damp gravel all the time, I'd look at your ground connections and inspect your positive and negative cables. Spraying something on the connector won't clean it. Remove, scrap/polish clean and then assemble with some dielectric grease. There is an aerosol battery terminal cleaner that dissolves corrosion and works quite well too you could try. But, that only cleans up the ends. If your cables have fur on them or look discolored where the wires go into the coating, you could have hidden corrosion as well.

Hello b-train
Oh I forgot I did try to start in neutral and that was also no crank no start.
the positive batteries wires are all 0/1 ofc wires. I have a little system going and less then a year old.
i have not done the starter wire yet.
the ground cables were done years ago

what about the small starter wire, is that easy to change and what is it called specifically if I have to order one

thanks eric

 

[E J F]

i am in the process of cleaning all positives and negatives cables.
i am also running a new cable from the starter to the battery ( 0/1 gauge like the rest)
couple of hrs already and half done

the small wire looks to be in not good of shape at the end, i see corrosion inside the wire coating.

 

[E J F]

well after all the rain has stopped i went out finished installing my new 12v large wire.
hooked up my starter and i went to go start and nothing (pissed) so i took the starter off again hooked up a new small wire along with the old small wire and ran it to a switch.
turn the switch and nothing still (frustrating)
so i hooked up a battery charger that has the 75 boost, tried and nothing.
i waited a bit and i got a click from the switch, waited again 2 more times and it cranked and started then die. did this 3 more times and then i started the vehicle normal and started up and ran (yes) waited a few min shut off and tried the switch and cranks but wont keep running ( that is confusing) so i went back to started normally and started.
took the battery off the charger tried the switch and nothing, tried the normal start and nothing. put the charger back on and it starts normal now but will not start using the switch does anybody no why???

so i definitely need to buy a battery
dont really know why and how it started (switch started something or just a coincidence)
any answers would be nice and to help out any others that run into some of a situation

thanks for help b-train

 

[E J F]

not much help

thanks anyways i guess

 

[Doubeleive]

have you bench tested the starter?

 

[OR VietVet]

IMO, sounds like part of what I went thru with my girl's 2002 TrailBlazer that turned out to have a failed ignition switch and it is also important that when and if a new switch is installed, get a Genuine GM or ACD part and not aftermarket and MAKE SURE the cam gear teeth are aligned perfectly or you can install a good part that will make you think it is a bad part. I had lights out the ying yang and intermittent no crank or cranking stopped before engine started. The older switches had problems with materials used in the switch contacts and updated switches were made for replacement.

 

[E J F]

have you bench tested the starter?

its brand new installed
then when i took it back out i bench tested it and it works
so i know there is nothing wrong with this starter.

the old starter also bench started but slowly tuns and when i started this in the vehicle my volt gauge would drop 10 - 11 volts from 12.2

the new starter when i start does not drop volts it starts to go higher in volts as it is turning over

 

[E J F]

IMO, sounds like part of what I went thru with my girl's 2002 TrailBlazer that turned out to have a failed ignition switch and it is also important that when and if a new switch is installed, get a Genuine GM or ACD part and not aftermarket and MAKE SURE the cam gear teeth are aligned perfectly or you can install a good part that will make you think it is a bad part. I had lights out the ying yang and intermittent no crank or cranking stopped before engine started. The older switches had problems with materials used in the switch contacts and updated switches were made for replacement.

if it is this problem i would like to upgrade to a push start button.

since i finally got it started it turns over all the time sounds like it needs a shim. it is a brand new gm starter pro series.

i managed to get it turning over by hooking up another wire to the S switch on the starter to a switch but it would not start but it cranked. then i tried with the key and it worked.

the wire is still hooked to the starter but i disconnected the ground wire from the battery just in case it happens again and i need to hook it up. not sure what would happen if i left the original wire and the wire i hooked up together to thye starter would do anything..