NNBS Brake Upgrade
- Thread starter dcwhybrew
- Start date
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Literally just finished this... r1 Concepts rotors and posi quiet pads.
Nice! Did you change the booster too?
Thank you, but I have read those posts and they do not discuss swaping the nbs brake booster with the nnbs brake booster...which is why I posted my question.
You can do just the calipers, pads, and rotors or you can swap the booster as well. I wouldn't unless its to swap to hydra-boost from vacuum booster. If you already have hydra-boost, don't bother. The hydra-boost helps with a linear pedal feel and reduced pedal effort, but not stopping distance. Don't bother with a swap to a newer vacuum booster.
Perfect...that's what I needed to know. Thanks. Having this done next week. Just realized that my spare wheel is 16" vs the 17" wheels that are on all four corners. Guess I'm buying a matching wheel and tire. I'm glad I learned that instead of at an in opportune time...LOL
Danzigman
Full Access Member
Don't you have to have a larger wheel to run the NNBS brakes? You will also have to change the caliper brackets. I have all the stuff setting in my garage, just haven't had a chance to do the swap.
From what I've read you have to at least have a 17" wheel or larger. And, yes you have to get the caliper brackets as well
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Remember, you want just the FRONT brakes. The rear disks on NNBS are much thinner and only marginally larger diameter. Thinner means less heat tolerant. Not worth doing the rears, just the front.
You will need 17" wheels for the NNBS fronts, but even if you forgot the spare and had a flat on the front, 16" will still fit on the rear, so you would have to swap spare to rear and rear to front. You'd get home, but it would be on the bonus tire change plan.
Well, I had the GMT900 (AKA NNBS) brake upgrade done today. Honestly, I can't tell a big difference. I do have drilled and slotted rotors. I also bought another matching 17" alloy wheel and matching 265/70-17 Michelin LTX MS2. I didn't realize there were 17" steel OEM wheels until after I bought the alloy wheel. So if you do this "upgrade", just buy the 17" steel OEM wheel. However, as I stated, I'm not sure there's a noticeable difference with this brake swap. I'd suggest anyone contemplating this just go over their brake components and make sure they're all in good shape and the fluid doesn't need to be changed.
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What do you mean by "bed in the brakes"? I didn't install them. I had the local tire store do the install.
Danzigman
Full Access Member
You need to find out what pads he installed and follow the procedure recommended by that manufacturer. It is basically a process of breaking in the new brake pads with the rotor.
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